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Robert,

It is a Porsche 6 cylinder, heavily breathed on and with the light weight it is pushing, very fast indeed. I don't know how big it is, maybe just under 3.0 but not sure. Angela can tell us, right Angela. I followed her and the 9 year old in the Spyder from Medford to LA and back this spring for the Knotts show. That is 1500 miles RT for those of you without a map!

Bruce
Robert, I had a 1970 VW single cab with a 'heavily breathed on' 2.7. (around 200 hp) It was a rocket (for a VW truck). Nothing sounds like a flat six Porsche motor at 7,000 rpm! I also had a Porsche 901 5 speed tranny, which was a bad choice for the bus configuration.
I don't know much about the 2.2 & 2.4s, but a 2.7 is not the best choice. Seems there is some problems with the head bolts. The 3.0 is near indestructible and would be the motor I would use. Is the 915 tranny that much more work to put in over the 901? At least with the 915 you get the regular shift pattern. The G50, which is a beautiful tranny, is quite large (and long).
The one thing that was ALWAYS on my mind while driving my 'Porsche' truck was, 'what if something in the motor breaks/blows up/melts/falls off etc. Parts for this motor can be very expensive. Price out spark plug wires, fuel pumps and starters.

I noticed that no one has mentioned turbos in this thread. Why is that? Wouldn't a well built 2 liter, low c.r., turbo motor be a good choice?
Amen on the turbo. VERY reliable horsepower and, with decent fuel injection it would be good mannered at any and all speeds/rpm's.

There seems to be, however, a fear of turbo charging an aircooled Speedster on this side of the Atlantic, like it's going to blow up within a few feet of the driveway. The Rice Tuners (and a number of VW Sedan folks), on the other hand, have been successfully producing 150 - 200 reliable horses from 1,600's - 1,915's for years, there's plenty of room in the back of a Speedster for the turbo and piping to make it work, and you could either push through a carb or run some simple throttle body fuel injection.

Heck! Put a mild turbo Suby back there (just the engine with a KEP adapter/clutch) and it would sound like an ACVW (but with well-adjusted valves) while easily and reliably giving 160 - 200 hp.



Funny you should say that.

Chris was looking at Carlisle for a Speedy body to put on a car he wants to prepare for the "One Lap" race. Engine would be a Suby WRX, turbo'd up to around 475 - 500 hp. He didn't find one (yet) but we're still kicking around options (did find a Kellison GT-40 body, but didn't like it). It may be a pipe dream, but you never know....don't know whether to put it in the back seat, a la SAW, or hang it out the rear (I vote for the rear seat, personally), but, either way, we already know how to make it handle......keeping the nose down on the high end is the biggest worry for me, and that's solvable...

LOTS more interesting engine swaps going on on other sites, especially in the UK...

And one of Chris' friends has an EVO that's doing over 400 hp to the 4WD wheels on a wheel dyno......surprises the hell out of C5 Vette's with it!

gn
i'm not afraid, turbo's for me. i've had numerous turbo saabs=love thm. but i won't be the first turbo speedster, there is already a speedster turbo, there is a pic from california. i'm still only gathering parts but:
cb hideaway header, t3 turbo with pressurized air going from below apron tin up thru (the unused) heater fresh air supply hose out the back of the fan shroud, tee'd left and right
following the fan shroud closely to the turbo hats on top of my modified 44mm weber
carb bodies, into the engine.

the beauty of turbo is;
1. no need for huge sums of money spent on heads/valves etc for decent, real power.
2. people are always talking about "hp the vw trans can take", turbo power is more linear
(unless your dropping the clutch/drag racing) so there is less chance of drive train shock.
3. it sounds great
4. parts are waiting for you in the junk yard right now.
5. $$$ to $$$$ probably the most cost effective change you can make

my gutted, modified carb bodies below.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • new carb
So what is the conclusion on the smaller (1700) v. larger (2100) type 1 engines? Is there really a drivability and reliability advantage to the smaller engine?

I want an engine with >100hp but am really scared of modifying a type 1 to have 3-4 times the power it was originally intended for . . .

If you were sticking with a type 1 for road use everyday would the smaller engine really be more reliable than a bigger engine??
80 posts and no conclusion says it all doesn't it? LOL There is really some good information and insight in this thread. Read it all a couple of times and you will get a good feel for what is important? If at all possible go for a test drive with the larger engine and then the smaller one, I have heard people say WOW its worth the extra expense and some risk, and others have come away saying it isn't worth it?
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