Engine "chokes itself" at 3-3500 rpm's

Hi All -
just picked up a 2007 Vintage Speedster with 800 miles on a 1915 motor, that is running dual 40 Kads. The car idles perfectly, goes like stink off the line, then starts to miss at about 3-3500 rpms. It is still running points in a 009 - but they are clean and properly adjusted. I checked to make sure the advance plates were not frozen and was able to set the timing with no problems in the shop. It is so strange. It really feels like the dizzy is not advancing, or like hitting a rev limiter. I am pretty comfortable with Type4 stuff. Initially when I heard the car had an 009, I was shocked (we refer to them as boat anchors on the 914 forums). However, they seem the norm on type I stuff.

Any ideas?

Also, any other VS owners have a balast resistor in the tachometer circuit? The car is running a blue coil with points, so I am confused on why there would be a need - it's not like there is an MSD in the car. It appears the dealer added it very recently (tach jumps all over the place).

Thanks a million -
Scott S
Denver, CO

A couple of things come to mind. That fuel regulator is not the very best. Just for drill, try removing it and drive the car. It may be clogged up with junk and won't allow fuel to pass through. Additionally, there is a screen in the bottom of you gas tank that will also clog up. Check fuel filters too.

I'm not sure how you're setting your timing but you should be setting it to 28 degree's before top dead center at 3,000 RPM's. By doing this, it ensures that you don't over advance the engine and detonate. By timing it at 3,000 RPM's, it also ensures that your advance springs are working properly as you'll see the timing advance via your timing light. And by the way, don't static time your engine.

Remove the air cleaners and drive the car, they could be limiting air to the carburetors and, also adjust the linkage to ensure that both carb's are opening at the same time and the same amount.

The tach bounce is due to an inferior tachometer and with a blue coil, a balast resistor isn't necessary. Although the points may look good and are adjusted correctly, the condensor could be bad and causing a lot of the problems. At your first opportunity, buy a point eliminator. Available at just about every VW shop around or via the internet.
Give some of things a try, and report back with your progress

2X Larry

Those of you going to new/bigga fuel tanks; keep that vertical screen in the gas tank . It may be inconvenient to access , but it's designed to be self cleaning; normal car vibration will keep it clean until the tank is HALF FULL of garbage.
Try that with a inline pre-pump screen

If you've ruled out line blockage , then confirm fuel pump delivery RATE by timing how long it takes to fill liter/qt (see MFG specs)

try new rotor/cap; may be cap arcing or rotor contact wear
If you can make the "miss" symptom appear while SITTING in the driveway, do it for 5 sec or so then cut the engine . Inspect plugs for rich/lean

Be sure to check performance after EACH change , whenever possible.
Many probs are recurring so you'll know the answer next time.

I just about DOUBLED my acceleration by switching from the 009 to the proper SVDA dizzy
on my TIV '78 hydrolifter.
note-- the 009 had pertronix and the SVDA has POINTS !!!

Not sure where you're located, but the parts in the above posts should be available at Painter's Grinding (~Santa Fe & Mississippi) or Nu Vintage (Sheridan & I-76). Both places are loaded with aircooled parts and advice.

Dave, I had that nylon screen thingy in there. It dissolved though, so all I have is a pre-filter before the pump now.

If they make a brass one, I would recommend it, but the plastic melted away on mine: damn alcohol in the fuel!

Aircraft fuel screen may offer a solution...
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/fuf02.php

FIXED!!!!

I finally got some time last night. Installed a Pertronix, removed the wierd ceramic covered ballast resistor from the tach circuit and re-timed the motor.

Initial start up was very easy - tach worked!!! (well sort of - it is still off at least 500 rpm). Timed the thing and went for a drive. Not a cloud in the sky at 8pm, 75 degrees on a perfect colorado evening. Next thing I know it was 30-45 minutes later. No more missing at high RPM's. Pulled just fine all the way up to the top - litterally an effortless drive, with a few waves thown it for the thumbs up's I got from some folks on the road.

I have a very slight back fire through the exhuast at high RPM down shifts, so I may back the timing down a tad. So pleased.

Now, on to the last detail - installing a horn.

What a fun little car!

And so it begins. The Madness has now assimilated another one. Resistance IS futile.

Oh yeah - This "last detail" statement is funny. Similar to Lubarski's Law of Cybernetic Entomolgy ("There's always one more bug") on computers, with Speedsters there's always one more tweak. Or two. Or ten.

Maybe the old diode trick for the tach...a quick 5 minute job for a couple of bucks.

Purchase a diode #1N4005 from a local electronics store such as Radio Shack or Circuit City. Cut both ends of the diode so each is approximately 3/4? long. Crimp 1/4? female spade connector on the end of the diode with the silver band. Crimp butt-splice connector on the other end of the diode. Crimp the opposite end of butt-splice connector to the wire connected to the ignition signal source. Connect 1/4? female spade connector used in #3 above to terminal #4 on the back of the tachometer. Connect a ground (-) wire to terminal #3. Connect a switched 12-volt power wire to terminal #2. Set switches for appropriate amount of cylinders.

oops.......

Shoulda read a little farther up the thread.

Glad you got in some quality drive time!

gn