Engine Compartment Heat Barrier

Bruce, I don't understand what you're trying to do. Can you explain?

Bruce, it looks like your speedster was missing some (very important) panels to completely isolate the upper engine compartment from the underside.

I don't think that will help much without sealing of the rest of it.

My car is the same back there. I was going to seal mine off with an aluminum panel. I have to admit, I like your method better.

Where did you get the material?

Ted

My car is the same as Bruces. Its not a bad idea, it looks like a pretty nice job.

Cole..It's possible that your car is different and is already sealed up in this area I referenced but basically there was no panels separating the engine compartment from the fender wells and the rear body apron. VS tries to seal this area but what they do is inadequate in my opinion. It is imperative that the engine compartment is totally sealed up so that the only air allowed in comes through the "hood" grill. There are, of course, variations to allow more air passage such as a hole in the firewall directly in front of the fan intake and additional louvers in the "hood". Now that this area is sealed up and no hot exhaust air can be sucked in, I will be working to insure that the perimeter of the engine tin is also effectively sealed adjacent to the body as well. This panel I built is removable even with the engine in. I don't know why I made it that way but it seemed to make sense and it wasn't any more difficult to make. It was easier to make it while the engine is out though. I hope this answered your question.

Ted....I got the material from VS but in the event that I could not i had planed to make it myself by getting all the materials from Home Depot. I had to make a special battery box for my boat so this is what I would have done if VS couldn't have supplied some stock.

Buy a a 24"X36" of galvanized sheet metal, some fiberglass roving or cloth (your choice), some of those throw-away paint brushes, and some resin. Buy a can of McGuire's mold release wax and apply (per directions on the can) to the sheet metal (which you will have laying on a flat surface). Paint on a good thick coat of resin and then lay down the glass cloth making sure you get all the air bubbles out while the resin is still fluid. After it has hardened, add another coat of resin and another coat of cloth and so on. Once you have a thickness of approx. 3/16" just peal it off the sheet metal...voila, you have a nice sheet of fiber glass stock to work with. It's a lot less messy if you leave a bare margin around the perimeter of the sheet metal and use a new brush and rubber gloves with each application of resin . This is a no-brainer to do, using readily available materials.

Just an after thought but instead of the sheet metal, I have used that white coated particle board, I think it's called melnie or something like that ( it's used as a cheap shower enclosure material). If you have some of that around you can use that.

I hope this helps

I forgot to mention that I used JB Epoxy (5 to 6 minute set up time) to join all the panel pieces

Waxed paper is a good substitute for mold release wax on a flat surface.

Excellent! I can do that.

Thanks,

Ted