Engine cooling

Is there some type of fan or something (Electric) that can be put in engine department to keep air flowing?

Check the knowledge section for specifics, but you bascially need a welded and balanced fan with the 356 pulley, and then you may want to add the external oil cooler setup.....I like the package from summit racing with the 16 pass oil cooler. This assumes you have good tins and sealed the top half from the bottom half. Also a non-restrictive exhaust will help a lot but is a little expensive compared to the other improvements.

The gentleman that bought Georges old car was at Carlisle and he had a great set up in the engine area. Inside the rear wheel well there was a vent that went through into the engine area. He had a small grill installed to keep the crap out.

This while moving helped the air flow and keep cooler air coming into the engine. It was invisible to the eye, he needed to point it out to me.

What a tremendous idea. And, what a nice car.

Yeah. Karl, and a hell of a nice guy too. It seemed to me that this was the way to go...

Karl how about some pictures of the fan install......sounds pretty neat

Karl,

The engine bay sides cut open to allow for additional cooling and cool air to enter sounds like a winning solution to me . Have you considered opening the area behind the license plate area to allow for better flow through ? I saw an IM that has the shape of the license plate cut out behind it, the opening is about an inch less in diameter and has the plate mounted with a 1" off set (looks like shock rubber bushings)and looks good.

Mike,

Thanks for the complement, I wish I could take credit for this idea however that goes to my engine builder Kurt Metzger. The opening is behind the rear wheels into the engine compartment and designed to add some fresh air for the carbs.

Karl

The first picture is from the rear of the engine compartment looking at the driver side the hole is visible to the left of the carb. The second shot is from under the driver side wheel well looking straight up.

Alan I think that this winter I will install an external oil cooler instead. That seems like the most effective solution.

There wasn't a fan...it's air cool by moving. At least I don't think there was a fan.

I thought the tighter the seal on the engine bay the better the engine cooling, per the design.I was just about to seal up the gap at the back of my engine between the engine and the firewall with rubber(the stuff from the bottom of garage doors to make a better seal).Should I leave it open?? Let me know.

is better to have air flow into the engine compartment but not around the tin near the exhaust because that's hot air. so seal away the bottom

Steve Better - seal the top of the engine compartment from the bottom of the engine compartment. Cool air in the top to carbs and engine cooling fan. Hot air out the bottom. Never the twain should meet, if you get that picture. The engine tin and various seals keep the two separate. Think of it like you don't plumb the exhaust pipe to exit on to the air cleaner. Keep your cool, dude!

I just use a prop rod on the decklid and the engine stays alot cooler and the carbs get all the cool air they need. Cool air = more hp.

Couldn't a 3-4" air duct be discretely piped into the engine compartment, like the Winston Cup boys do, to get more air in there? Darryll

Just curious if anyone has ever installed an electric fan in the engine compartment to aid in cooling. Also I have read a rule of thumb that if you cant hold the dipstick of a warmed up engine in your hand then the engine is running to hot. Any comments?

The "can you hold onto the oil dip stick" is a good basic way of knowing if the engine is running too hot....electric fans are "iffy" to resolve a speedster heat related problem.

The factory VW Beetle engine bay design had a sealed area with louvers just below the rear window . The later models had the additionl louvers on the deck lid. The exhaust heat has must be sheilded from the engine bay.

What I've been done with the Speedsters I make a (*) sheet aluminum seal in a horse shoe shape. It must be made in three pieces to allow for it to be set in. The aluminum is above the exhaust in the engine compartment that follows around the engine leaving a 1/2" to 5/8" gap between the seal and the sheel aluminum, this gap is filled in by installing a aircooled VW bus "H" foam seal that is designed for this purpose.

On the engine bay forward fire wall to rear of engine area, I leave that 1" horizontal space or so open to allow cool air to flow through the engine compartment and out the deck lid grill.

A rubber seal on the deck lid to body lip is not as good as using use four rubber "stopper buttons" (see JPS site for their pics) this also allows for a bit of additional air to escape.

The larger the engine size the additional cooling options need be added i.e. a 1.5 qt. oil sump, external oil cooler and a remote oil filter also adds to the over oil capacity of the engine.

Finally, head temp is a must to monitor in larger engines, timing, carb set up, plugs etc, can effect this which relates to engine temps.
....Alan M.

(*) The aluminum I use is a epoxy painted (colors available) truck body sheeting that is available through distributors and or body shops.

Crap, my dipstick gets hot as heck. I gotta get a head temp gauge.
Although the oil temp stays around 200.

BD

Bill
Head for the kitchen draw and borrow the turkey thermometer , works great.. !

Alan, How do you know the air is flowing "out the engine grille"?

There is no replacement for instruments. Buy an oil temp and oil pressure gauge as well as a cylinder head temp gauge... They really are great tuning tools!

David ..........good question!
At idle put your hand over the grill, At road speeds, I can't say cause my sorry 53 y/o tail I can't run along side that fast!..........Anyone else?