Godspeed, my friend Bob!
@DannyP posted:Godspeed, my friend Bob!
Amen to that. God be with you, @Panhandle Bob, and with you @Larry Scislowicz.
Good luck Bob. I am glad you caught it early.
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More on ignition coils.
Does anyone know anything about this '123' coil, sold by a Dutch company for about $75?
Advertised as an 'improvement' over the original Bosch and said to be oil-filled, like the Bosch, with internal resistance also set to original spec. But, like the original, it has screw terminals, not spade lugs, so you'll be changing out some crimp connectors if you try it.
Looks to be well-done from the outside, but so is a lot of stuff on the interwebs.
Anyone?
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Do we know if the engine is still cutting out in 3rd and 4th gear? I was munching on my shrimp tacos and it just occurred to me that we hadn't heard anything about it in a while.
Third time with the Mohs technique got it all.
I now have a graft from chest on to my nose.
No fun, but done!
Thanks for your guys concern.
Back to coils.
Hi Bob....glad everything went well! Since this isn't your first rodeo you know that the healing process is worse than the actual procedure itself.....get well my friend.
@JMM (Michael) posted:Do we know if the engine is still cutting out in 3rd and 4th gear? I was munching on my shrimp tacos and it just occurred to me that we hadn't heard anything about it in a while.
Hi Michael....yes, still working on it. Eliminated the fuel system and now working on the electrical system. Surgery has slowed me down a bit but hopefully I will be able to get the new electronic "Compufire" ignition kit installed on the car and see if that was the cause of my problems......more to come!
@Larry Scislowicz posted:Hi Michael....yes, still working on it. Eliminated the fuel system and now working on the electrical system. Surgery has slowed me down a bit but hopefully I will be able to get the new electronic "Compufire" ignition kit installed on the car and see if that was the cause of my problems......more to come!
Excellent, Larry! Glad you're bouncing back. I'll bet once that ingnition is done you'll be in for smooth sailing.
@Sacto Mitch posted:.
More on ignition coils.
Does anyone know anything about this '123' coil, sold by a Dutch company for about $75?
Advertised as an 'improvement' over the original Bosch and said to be oil-filled, like the Bosch, with internal resistance also set to original spec. But, like the original, it has screw terminals, not spade lugs, so you'll be changing out some crimp connectors if you try it.
Looks to be well-done from the outside, but so is a lot of stuff on the interwebs.
Anyone?
.
This looks interesting Mitch. I run that companies electronic 123 distributor Combined with a stock original blue Bosch coil(on the Alfa) I haven't driven it yet, but I'm gonna keep this coil in the back library for the future.
Hello to all....Ok back in garage and have changed out the standard points and condenser for a a "Compufire" ignition kit. Installed it yesterday and it fired up good, except for the fact that now the idle setting appears to be low and when I let off the gas the car it stalls out.
NEXT STEPS-
1. What/how should I do to get the car to idle for the time being? (remember I'm a one man show).
2. Once I get the idle figured out, I will need to set up the "timing". How does one gain access to adjust the carburetors? Got my Del book out to see where idle adjustment screws were located. Any special tricks in doing this? Do both carburetors need to have the idle adjusted or just the one on the left?
I'm waiting to hear from you guys before I make my next move forward.....Please advise.
Don’t touch the carbs yet.
You’ll need a timing light connected before you start the car. After you get it started, stay in the driver’s seat revving the car up and down to 2500-3000 RPM for a couple of minutes. If you can’t get it to settle into an idle, advance the timing a bit by turning the distributor slightly counterclockwise (after loosening the clamp).
Once you can get it to stay running, set the timing by revving to 3000 RPM and adjusting the total timing to 30 deg.
The carbs come after you set the timing.
@Stan Galat posted:Don’t touch the carbs yet.
You’ll need a timing light connected before you start the car. After you get it started, stay in the driver’s seat revving the car up and down to 2500-3000 RPM for a couple of minutes. If you can’t get it to settle into an idle, advance the timing a bit by turning the distributor slightly counterclockwise (after loosening the clamp).
Once you can get it to stay running, set the timing by revving to 3000 RPM and adjusting the total timing to 30 deg.
The carbs come after you set the timing.
OK, will do! As soon as I can get back into the garage again, I will give this a try. 93 degrees out there with a Heat Index @ 107! Summer is now upon us big time....Thanks
Stan....Quick up-date -Was able to get out to the garage today, temperature was bearable at 80 degrees. OK, got the car to idle by itself at 950 rpm @ 7.5 degrees, was able to see (when I increased the RPM) the 30 degree marker start creeping up to the mid-engine mark, did not take it to 3,000 rpms since I was trying to hold the throttle, and adjust the distributor and at the same time hold the timing light at the same time but I'm a lot further than I was before. Tomorrow I will try to get some help and set the timing at 3000 rpms. I'll let you know how that turns out......Thanks!
@Larry Scislowicz posted:I was trying to hold the throttle, and adjust the distributor and at the same time hold the timing light at the same time but I'm a lot further than I was before. Tomorrow I will try to get some help and set the timing at 3000 rpms. I'll let you know how that turns out......Thanks!
It helps if you have four arms and a spare foot while doing this, but you already found that out. Get your wife or partner or a neighborhood kid who's into cars to run the gas pedal for you while you mess around at the engine (wear ear muffs, too! - WHAT?!?!?!?).
And the 3,000 RPM is a strong suggestion - The distributor will peak out at whatever is its max advance at whatever engine RPM gets it there. Once that happens (usually between 2,500 and 3,000 engine rpm) it can't increase advance beyond that, even if the engine speed increases. All you're trying to do is find that speed where it doesn't advance the spark any more, and then set the spark to 30º by rotating the distributor to tune it in. Doing this will often make the engine run faster at idle and might need to have the idle speed adjusted, too. First, get it to max advance at 30º before Top Dead Center (BTDC) and tighten the distributor clamp so it can't change. Then re-adjust your idle speed on both carbs if it needs it. After that, it'll be good for years of driving.
I actually made up a tool to use when doing this solo, just to hold the throttle at whatever speed I want, and is easily adjustable when you're back at the engine. It holds the engine speed constant while I see what's what with my timing light and, with the other hand, move the distributor back and forth to dial in the right spark advance. I mentioned it on here once or twice and got a Pooh-Pooh reception, but I'll tell yah - The damn thing works great and holds the throttle right where I want it. Cost me about $15 bucks. I should make some up and sell them at Stoddard's or CB Performance for $50 each!
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Excellent, Larry.
You only really need 2 hands to set the timing. I pull the throttle with my left hand and point the timing light with my right. As Gordon says, holding it at exactly 3000 RPM is not necessary— you’re just looking for “total advance” (when the timing stops advancing), and that happens when it happens (some point after 2500 RPM).
If the timing isn’t right, you can let the engine drop back to idle, and either advance or retard the timing by rotating the distributor CCW or CW respectively. Then try again, and see where you are. Once you’ve set it, tighten the clamp then check again one last time.
At 7-1/2 deg BTDC at idle with an 009 (or copy), you’re close.
Stan I thought you set your car's timing like a properly civilized ape: via
Hello to all….MYSTERY HAS BEEN SOLVED!! Wanted to let everyone know that my engine stalling out when reaching operating temperature has been finally solved. After chasing this problem for several months using suggestions from SOC group, I finally threw in the towel and took it to a reputable auto shop in the area to have them look at it.
They found the problem to be the “fuel push-rod” was sticking and hanging up when the engine operating temperature was reached. Since this was a new fuel pump that I recently purchased and installed they also learned/researched that these fuel push-rods have a tendency to expand and needed to be machined down a bit to make them operate correctly. Once this was taken care of the car is now operating correctly.
In the attempt of trouble shooting this problem I replaced the fuel-pump, replaced the fuel filter, replaced & wrapped all fuel lines in the engine compartment, replaced the cap, rotor, coil, plugs, wires, adjusted the valves and retorqued heads (not necessarily in that order).
In the beginning it was determined to be either an electrical or mechanical problem, as it turned out, it was mechanical.
Thanks for all of your help as usual!! …….Larry
What brand and type of fuel pump was giving you the problem?
Wow!! Too bad you didn't include an electric fuel pump in your list of things tried. But glad to hear issue resolved. I offer to you: Re-welcome To The Madness.
That's one I've not heard about. But excellent that you got to the bottom of it!
EMPI pushrod?
I guess an electric fuel pump woulda fixed it!
@Panhandle Bob posted:What brand and type of fuel pump was giving you the problem?
Hi Bob....Ordered the Fuel Pump from J-Bugs (see below)
Item | Qty | Price | Total | |||||
 | VW Fuel Pump - use with 100mm Drive Rod (Alternator Style) - 1973-74 Beetle - Super Beetle 113127025G | 1 | $19.95 | $19.95 | ||||
 | VW Fuel Pump Drive Rod - Short - 100MM/3.9" 113127307A | 1 | $3.95 | $3.95 | ||||
 | VW Fuel Pump Flange - All Type 1 Engines 113127303 | 1 | $3.95 | $3.95 | ||||
 | VW Fuel Pump Gasket - Lower Only 113127311 | 1 | $1.00 | $1.00 | ||||
 | VW Fuel Pump Gasket - Upper Only 113127313 | 1 | $1.00 | $1.00 |
Thanks. Good to know!
@DannyP posted:That's one I've not heard about. But excellent that you got to the bottom of it!
EMPI pushrod?
I guess an electric fuel pump woulda fixed it!
Looking back on it now, it probably would have circumvented some of the work!
@Larry Scislowicz posted:Looking back on it now, it probably would have circumvented some of the work!
I apologize for my hindsight. It's always 20-20...
I’m glad to hear you got the problem fixed. The pump flange is made out of a bakelite material, and they are known to swell with heat and humidity. This seems a more likely situation than the pushrod being incorrect, at least to me.
Pssst . . . electric fuel pump. That is all.
@LI-Rick posted:I’m glad to hear you got the problem fixed. The pump flange is made out of a bakelite material, and they are known to swell with heat and humidity. This seems a more likely situation than the pushrod being incorrect, at least to me.
A lot easier to cure by drilling out the Bakelite to the next drill size up, too, rather than machining the push rod, but either will get the job done. Me? I'd drill the Bakelite, but I don't own a lathe, either. Yah work with what'cha got!
@Gordon Nichols posted:A lot easier to cure by drilling out the Bakelite to the next drill size up, too, rather than machining the push rod, but either will get the job done. Me? I'd drill the Bakelite, but I don't own a lathe, either. Yah work with what'cha got!
Of course you drill the flange, even though I have a couple of lathes. You have to be smarter than the problem! 