Engine Drain Cover Stud to Pickup Tube Bracket

Just curious why you're taking off the studs that are attached to the bottom of the engine.

Doesn't the low profile sump use these studs to attach itself to the engine?  Why would you need to put in new studs?

I'm waiting for my oil pickup tube extension from Aircooled Net, so I can install a small sump that I've had for many years.  I don't plan on doing anything with the studs that are presently in place to hold on the oil drain plate.  I'm going to use them to mount the sump to the engine.  If the kit came with studs shouldn't they go on the bottom of your low profile sump?

They may not be long enough, Ron. The mounting flanges on some sumps are thicker than others. Ideally, a stud should have a thread or 2 showing when things are torqued up.

I had to replace the studs when I added my CB Thinline Sump. The original studs were too short. I don't remember any of them being that difficult to remove. 

Ron, Al is correct the current studs are not with enough exposed threads.

Robert, do you have a VS with Roland's engine; was there a nylon nut on the pickup tube bracket or some kind of nut? Wonder if anyone else had difficulties removing that last stud holding the pickup tube bracket. 

Michael B (aka bluespeedster SoCal) posted:

Ron, Al is correct the current studs are not with enough exposed threads.

Robert, do you have a VS with Roland's engine; was there a nylon nut on the pickup tube bracket or some kind of nut? Wonder if anyone else had difficulties removing that last stud holding the pickup tube bracket. 

I wish I could remember if there was a nylon nut on there Michael but I can't. And I don't know if Roland built this engine. The car was built in 2001. 

Robert, thank you. I'm not sure what year Roland stopped working for Kirk and started his own business to build motors for Kirk, and repairing VW's when Kirk's need for motors slowed down.  

If I'm reading this right, the pickup tube is in place with a nut on the bracket (up inside the sump area) holding it fast.  Most likely, the stud was stuck in place with Loctite Red thread locker to make sure everything stayed put.  

About the only way to remove something that's been treated with this stuff is to heat up the stud (or the nut in the sump) for a minute or two with a propane torch and then, using the two, locked nuts on the stud method, unscrew everything and remove it.

You may have to heat the inside nut first and remove it, then heat the stud (you can leave the locked nuts on) and then remove it separately, but if you can get the inside nut just a little loose, then heat the stud the stud should turn out.

Here's the Loctite page on it:

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/b...20-red-threadlocker/

Even if it's NOT locked with Red locker, the heat will help remove the parts.

You might also consider, since the inside nut is really hard to get a good grip on, buying a sacrificial box-end 9-point wrench (isn't that nut a 10mm?), heating it up an inch or two from the box end and putting a 90º bend in it so you can reach up in there and get a good grip on the nut.  Get the 9-point so you'll have finer control over where it slips onto the nut.  For $5 bucks for a wrench it'll make your life a lot easier and you'll use it forever.  I have a 1/2" X 9/16" bent wrench for Ford distributor clamps for that same reason - had it since 1965!)

gn

Gordon- thank you very much for the ideas. Looking at the  video link, it doesn't appear to be to worry some to have heat just on the stud. Getting a flame to the nut, which looks like a nylon insert nut would be challenging due to space and scary having a flame near oil residue in the engine case sump. Then there is no room to turn the nut not even with a bent wrench- but a great idea to hold the nut, if I can heat a break the stud lose. Right now I just have enough room to insert a bent long needle nose pliers to hold the nut.

On another note, I roughly installed the pickup tube extension to see how much I need to cut off so that I can use the original oil screen. The problem I notices the original tube is at an angle; not straight up and down, and with the extension at an angle there is no way the screen mounted on the  Jay Cee cover will bolt together onto the sump. SO, I had a though, has any one created a screen porous enough not to restrict flow, but catch large object (i.e. nuts) and clamped it to the extension tube end? I would rather have some safety in the oil pickup line. Heard too may stories on this site of objects being drawn up into the tube.   

I test fitted my sump that I want to put on the engine and noticed I have the same problem as Michael-my studs are need to be longer.

Damn!

Looks like I'm going to have to order a set of longer studs, or just forget about putting the sump on.  It's a stock 1600 engine, so it's not like it needs the extra oil.

I had the car high up on the hoist today so I could get a close-up look at the nut that holds the oil pickup tube.

Looks like it will be a pain to take out and a real PITA to put the new longer stud back in its place.

Ron- that is my exact dilemma. Great photo by the way. Plus, my original drain tube is not straight enough to have the extension tube added and use the original oil screen. I want the safety of the screen and trying to figure out the tube issue. I think on this I will take the pickup tube extension, cut a wedge out of the diameter just enough to  bend the tubing to correct angle of straightness, then seal cut via welding. as for the stud holding the oil pickup tube bell housing, it stays and I will use a Loctite Blue on the threads for a nut which will be flush with the stud; no nut or stud threads showing.

If you're thinking of cutting and welding the tube, it might be easier, if it doesn't have to bend too much, to find a rod (maybe a 6" or longer 3/8" ratchet extension) that fits inside of the tube, then heat the tube up in there, insert the rod and bend the tube to where you want it.  Once nicely hot, it won't take much effort to bend it below where the bracket attaches. 

This may be a bit extreme but if you can get to the top nut to turn it, can you turn it so the stud goes up into the case? If so could you just cut the stud off flush with the bottom of the case? Then you could turn the nut on top up into the case and take it out along with the stud.

I can't for the life of me remember how I got that out. Maybe if I had done it a dozen or so times I could remember but once is all I've done.

I watched a you tube video of a guy taking that stud out.  He put two nuts on the stud and turned the stud out.  He had to put a screwdriver against the nut that holds down the pickup tube, to keep it from spinning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hD2hP1m-6ew

The trick, of course, is getting the pickup tube nut back on the new, longer stud. 

I keep asking myself, "Do I really need to add a sump?"

And speaking of studs, where does one buy longer studs? 

Ron O posted:

And speaking of studs, where does one buy longer studs? 

I'll answer my own question.

Just received my oil pickup tube extender kit from Aircooled.net and it included replacement studs.  I'll have to take one of the studs off my engine to see if there is difference in length.

5 of the 6 longer studs are in.  Guess which one I haven't put in yet.

The problem I'm facing now is the new longer studs are the same length as the one stud that the oil pickup tube was bolted to.

I need an even longer stud.  Probably another 1 cm longer (somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2".

Once I find or make a longer stud I'll have to get that top nut on somehow.  Tomorrow I'm off to the thrift store to look for an old, cheap 10mm wrench, which I plan on cutting and bending so it can reach the top nut.

Here's a photo comparing the length of a new and old stud. 

I solved my needing a longer stud problem by buying a meter long length of metric threaded rod and cutting off the needed length.

I couldn't buy a shorter length, but it was only $4.00, so a cheap way to go.

I'm off to buy a torch so I can heat up and bend a 10mm wrench to fit over that top nut.

By the way, if anyone is looking for a reusable set of oil drain plate gaskets Aircooled.net sells some silicone gaskets.

http://shoptalkforums.com/view...php?f=3&t=149564

I bought a set and plan on using one between the sump and bottom of the engine.  I'll also use another set for the sump strainer/plate.

Gordon- I'm going to try your idea of heating the aluminum pickup extension that came with the CB kit.

Ron- looking at your photo, the pickup tube is nice and straight. I have no idea what  kind of crap I have in my motor. Even the housing the pickup tube comes out looks nice and clean on the edges- mine is all cut up; again more crap. Not sure what Roland stuck in my motor.

As for the studs, mine will not turn at all with the due nuts. Perhaps it was put on with Loctite Red- so, I'm going to put on a new nut with wave washer and use Loctite blue. The other studs were easy to remove and being replace.