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I had been putting up with a Type 1 engine that refused to fire up quickly and, after replacing the IDF carburetor return springs with heavier ones, the problem magically disappeared. I purchased the springs at Kragen for about $5/pair. I don't know if the ones I replaced were the original stock items on the car, since I purchased the car used, but new springs cured the problem.

I can only guess that the butterflies were not closed all the way, causing an excess of air to be ingested during the starting procedure because of the return springs not doing their job. Also, the engine doesn't rev up to 1500rpm, then slowly drift back to the 900 idle speed like it did before. The engine now responds immediately to the accellerator.

Barry

 

Former owner Vintage Suby Spyder

1967 Chevy C10 pickup

'38 Chevy coupe; Corvette LS-6 engine; 6-speed Tremec transmission, plus other goodies

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I had been putting up with a Type 1 engine that refused to fire up quickly and, after replacing the IDF carburetor return springs with heavier ones, the problem magically disappeared. I purchased the springs at Kragen for about $5/pair. I don't know if the ones I replaced were the original stock items on the car, since I purchased the car used, but new springs cured the problem.

I can only guess that the butterflies were not closed all the way, causing an excess of air to be ingested during the starting procedure because of the return springs not doing their job. Also, the engine doesn't rev up to 1500rpm, then slowly drift back to the 900 idle speed like it did before. The engine now responds immediately to the accellerator.

Maybe. You have to remember that after replacing the hex bar, cleaning the jets, setting the valves and timing and getting the carbs to operate simultaneously, there was nothing else to check. The initial high idle speed was what originally caused me to look at the springs. I am no mechanic. Type 1 engines are entirely new to me and the things I have learned have been from the SOC and Spyder sites, plus all the troubleshooting info on sites like Aircooled.net, Pelican, Redline Weber, CB Performance, etc.

Local guys like Mark Patty have also been invaluable. I should say local "guy." Mark is the only other Spyder owner in my area who has been easily accessible. Paul Harford, Ray Armstrong, Dale Bates, Mike Beaucage are others, but they live out of my immediate area, and for whatever reason, I have not yet gotten together with them to talk about mechanical stuff.
The lighter and smaller of the two spring types was part number 59014 and the heavier, slightly longer spring was 29008. Both made in China by Motormite. They come in red and white packages. The longer spring might need some shortening and due to its larger diameter, it might prove to interfere with the smooth opening and closing, so I might go back to the smaller springs. It has been raining since I put the springs, so I haven't had a chance to do a longer-term evaluation. They sure work better than the ones that came with the car. You will need some wire cutters and a pair of round-beak (to prevent crimping the wire when it is bent) needlenose pliers.

I would start with the #59014s first. The wire gauge is a little thinner and easier to bend. Then, if it works, consider getting a spare pair to take along in case a spring breaks or comes off when you are in the middle of nowhere...or just take your old springs as spares.
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