Anyone have a pic/image of the hood lock (Engine) with the cable connection to the lock? My CMC came with a snapped cable that I replaced, but don't have a clue what hardware to buy for the connection between the locking mechanism and the end cable. The lock is operating normally. And what are people using for the Engine hood pin?
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The cable goes through the sleeve on the right hand side of your picture(left on car), through the hole in the bottom of the tail and makes a tight 180 degree turn. Usually you would see a barrel connector on the end to keep the cable from coming loose.
Frank
"Anyone have a pic/image of the hood lock (Engine) with the cable connection to the lock? My CMC came with a snapped cable that I replaced, but don't have a clue what hardware to buy for the connection between the locking mechanism and the end cable. The lock is operating normally. And what are people using for the Engine hood pin?"
On mine, rather than just use a hex-head bolt, I measured the opening for the lacy pin, used a piece of steel tubing with an OD slightly smaller than the latch opening and ran a hex-socket head bolt through it to hold it to the cover.
For the latch cable connection, the cable runs through a metal tube (I think mine is plain, 1/4" copper tubing), the end of which runs into a tube to the left (driver's) side of the latch, shown here:
To make the connection between the latch and the cable, I used a throttle cable connector from a lawn mower. It has a stud that mounts to the latch arm with a locking nut, and has a barrel to run the cable through (in my case, a solid wire) and a screw which screws into the end of the barrel and securely clamps the cable (wire) in place and not pull out.
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Thanks Gordon.
Geez....Now I gotta get out there and get a picture of the cover latch pin, just to keep up with Ted.
Geez....Now I gotta get out there and get a picture of the cover latch pin, just to keep up with Ted.
Nobody's keeping up with Ted. The man took SANDPAPER to his finished car, and it looks fantastic.
That takes some intestinal fortitude.
Ted: you sir, are the man.
Geez....Now I gotta get out there and get a picture of the cover latch pin, just to keep up with Ted.
Nobody's keeping up with Ted. The man took SANDPAPER to his finished car, and it looks fantastic.
That takes some intestinal fortitude.
Ted: you sir, are the man.
Heh... Thanks. I'm so glad that it turned out well. I knew the orange peel was bad on that front fender, so I had little to lose. I watched a lot of autogeek.net videos and just went a little bit at a time.
Ran the new cable to the release lock-plate. Do you have any suggestions where I can get a new engine hood pin (that locks to the plate)? I gone to Advance Auto, PepBoys, AutoZone and none look close, or are the proper length like yours Ted.
Cut the head off a stainless steel bolt.
Exactly.
Go to ACE Hardware and get a hex-socket, 3/8" bolt in Stainless Steel and use that.
You won't even need to cut the head off and it'll look Mahvelous! You may elect to add a sleeve of the proper diameter just to make it all fit better, but you'll figure that out.....
Ok. I'll try the hardware route. Just wanted to avoid the look of a threaded bolt sticking out of my speedster. Thanks for the size recommendation.
If you get a long bolt there will be an unthreaded portion under the head. That can be the part that sticks out.