So I don't know if this is normal but has anyone ever had a fan split like this? Can I pick one up at a local auto part store or should I have Carey send me one. I will say it scared the sh*@ out of me, at first I though it was a backfire until I saw the red light pop on and decided to coast down my street. Got is safely in the garage opened the engine boot and let's just say it was hot.
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See if your local _____ has (or can get it), otherwise a VW place. What's the belt look like?
As always, make sure you have a spare (or even 2).
His pulley broke in two (see pictures).
To the question at hand, no-- I've never seen this before, but it doesn't surprise me. Parts made with pride in the PRC.
Replacing a belt (and back half of the pulley) is something every type 1 powered Speedster owner has to know how to do; what happens if you shred a belt in the middle of nowhere? You can't limp back to the nearest gas station- it's probably self-serve and the 16 yr. old kid behind the counter won't know what to do, and you'll cook the engine in the process. All it takes is a flat blade screwdriver and a wrench. Make sure you get the tightness on the belt right (1/2" deflection with your thumb) and the spare shims go on the outside of the pulley under the cap and nut.
I've heard of those inner pieces breaking before- I think I've seen a pic or 2 on the Samba. As Stan said- "parts made with pride in the PRC".
Always keep a belt (and the tools to install it) in the car, and a spare inner pulley half wouldn't be a bad idea, either. And before re-using that belt, give it a really good look over, and if it isn't pristine, chuck it. If you don't, another belt replacement in your near future Yoda predicts...
PS- I don't think it has anything to do with your engine's power; read again Stan's little dig- "parts made with pride in the People's Republic of China".
Aaaah sugar...This is just great!
Now I've got something else to be paranoid about...nutz
I drove beetles until I was almost 30 (early 1974- late '85?) and even when these cars were the most common automobile all over the planet, a shredded belt could strand you if you didn't carry a spare and have the ability and tools to do a roadside repair. You CAN'T nurse an aircooled car with no belt home for more than a few blocks and expect to not overheat it. I also changed clutch and accelerator cables on the side of the highway over the years- 2 other things have in the car you should....
Carl- No paranoia, just carry spares and know that you can do it should the situation arise. If you need to, do a trial run at home to give you piece of mind, so be it. And buy an extra wrench and screwdriver to live in the car along with the belt (and the inner pulley half isn't a bad idea either).
EDIT- Even if someone else does your oil and spark plug changes, you need to know how to change a fan belt and have a spare (and the tools) in your car at all times. Even a nice afternoon or evening drive with your lady will turn into a disaster if the engine shreds or throws a belt if you aren't prepared to deal with it. You can't drive these engine any distance with no cooling system (which the fan belt is an integral part of) and not expect overheating damage; these things get way too hot really fast with no air carrying away the heat.
I know I'm repeating myself, but it's that important- carry a belt and tools in the car wherever you go, and know what to do if the situation arises. Practice in the garage a couple of times if need be; it will give you peace of mind. If you know what you're doing, instead of it being a big issue on the side of the road it's a 5 minute inconvenience and then you're back to roaring it up!
As a non wrench guy this give me a bit of angst but will get over it. I know I need to get my hands dirty and learn this stuff. I just want to make sure I order the correct part(s). From a quick google search this is what I have found. Does it make a difference what make of engine I have.
Joe-
Ted beat me to it. It doesn't matter. Anything will fit.
The pulley halves with the built-in fan always looked pretty dangerous to me. I understand the idea, but I was never wild about sticking my nose anywhere near those spinning blades of doom.
I've also never had very good luck with the Chinese alternator (or generator... they're all the same) pulleys-- they often have quite a bit of run-out (wobble). I've got a $50 domestically made pulley with no built-in fan on the 2110.
As an aside: I've run just about every combination of pulley set up there is. Stock diameter crank pulley/stock diameter alternator, power-pulley/stock alternator, power-pulley/356 alternator, stock crank/356 alternator, etc. My 2276 set-up is a BMD serpentine set-up for dry sump, with a tiny crank/tiny alternator pulley that replicates the stock VW ratio.
Stock works really well. Personally, I wouldn't buy one with a cooling fan attached, nor one from Asia (unless it was free)- but I believe in overkill in all things mechanical. Of course, I'm pretty sure this is why I don't throw fan belts, etc. either.
Forewarned is forearmed. Your mileage may vary.
Joe this one looks good and these guys are in Effingham IL. Made in USA
http://www.mamotorworks.com/VW...2-volt-chrome_336114
Joe- What Ted and Stan said. Don't get the chrome unit; the belt starts slipping at even less rpm than normal. No angst- it's really easy. Pull the hub to the old inner pulley off, slide the new one on (it should go on fairly easily when the slot is lined up with the woodruff key on the shaft), stick on a bunch of shims (Ted's suggestion of using the same number of shims that were on before works), slide the outer half on (make sure the locating prongs go through the matching slots on the inner side), put the rest of the shims under the cap/nut, tighten it up, check the belt deflection, adjust if necessary. Again- once you've done it, you'll wonder what all the fuss was about. Oh, the screwdriver goes through the slot in the inner part to hold it still so you can get the nut done up. Guys, have I forgotten anything?
PS- A chrome pulley could always be sanded with a little fine paper on the side contact surfaces for a little better grip.
Joe I am sure they have non-chrome good quality ones too. Call them in the am.
Thanks Marty, I will also be calling DuPage Auto Werks and Carey at Special Edition.
If you want the "fan" on the rear of the pulley, CB Perf sells a Brazilian unit that is quite strong....
I lost a standard pulley because I did not triple check it.... The pulley loosened up, ate the key, keyway, front supports, and wobbled out the I.D. ...... (Thanks to Musbjim and friends for helping me keep my sanity, as this was discovered after a 750mi. trip to Carlisle.)
I now do the initial install, rotate the engine 2-3 times, check belt tension and re torque, crank the engine and give it a 5-10 min run... Then check again...
Ted:
go here: https://www.bugcity.com/shop/shop.htm?pquery=pulley
And get one of these: 043903109G
Yes, it's $70 bucks.
It's new old stock GERMAN and will be the last fan pulley you'll ever buy.
You definitely DO NOT need those Chevy-style fan blades on the back half - they don't really help much and are, in my and Stan's opinion, needlessly dangerous.
Lots of sage and pertinent advice on this thread!
Ted:
go here: https://www.bugcity.com/shop/shop.htm?pquery=pulley
And get one of these: 043903109G
Yes, it's $70 bucks.
It's new old stock GERMAN and will be the last fan pulley you'll ever buy.
Yep: that's pretty expensive.
But... what's it worth to not lose a belt, or punch a hole in your deck-lid when the pulley flies apart?
For $70, I would go with peace of mind, and reliability for sure.
Gordon thanks for the link, I'm going to order tomorrow and see how quick they can get it shipped.
Seriously I do t know where I would be without the SOC.
figured I would share a pic of where it hit the underside do the engine Lid.
They also sell the Chinese ones for a lot less, but I go to Bug City because they offer NOS German parts.
I don't shell out big bucks for everything simply because it's German, but for those parts that really make a difference (or are mission critical), that's the way to go.
Found a (helpful) video on you tube and only question is since I lost the backside of the pulley how do I get the nut off. And should I hear grind noise as I spin what's left of the pulley.
The pulley nut should be fairly easy to remove as the pressure on the pulley halves and shim packs has been lessened.... If it is indeed extremely tight, then the pulley may have been improperly shimmed....
Grabbing the shaft with vise grips should be a last resort as a burred up shaft will be slightly under sized and probably out of round when the burrs are cleaned up..... If available, try an electric or pneumatic impact wrench....
Yeah, if you can find someone's pneumatic or electric impact gun, good for 80-100+ ft lbs., then all you have to do is grab the existing pulley half with some vise grips to hold it and impact the nut right off. Should take just a few seconds with zero damage to the shaft.
My chrome pulley has worked fine for 46,000 miles.
keep extra woodruff keys on hand - easy to lose those buggers...
Personally I don't use vice-grips on anything I want to reuse and remain in good condition. If you must use vice-grips, wrap the shaft with a rag first. Tom B can call it a condom if he wants...LOL!
Wear some heavy leather gloves and grab the fan from the back side and then impact the nut off. Should blast right off in a few seconds like others have said.
