Hi All,
I bought an unfinished project, Dutch imported/made body. I’m currently rehanging all doors and lids. I struggle with the engine lid, if I open in (in my opinion) not too far I easily scrape the top of the body. I tried readjusting but I keep failing. Any ideas?
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Can you post a photo of the engine lid hinges? That might help with an answer.
As Gordon said, photos will help a lot.
That said, this issue occurs when the pivot point of the hinge is not properly located in relationship to the mounting point on the engine lid and the mounting point on the body. Thickness of the engine lid itself can also play a part here.
1st sample, I will take some extra pictures of the hinge tonight.
Thanks for thinking along.
It's all in the geometry. The pivot point needs to be forward of the opening. That way when opening the initial motion is upwards and perpendicular to the lid, rather than immediately pinching the gap closed.
Pictures of the hinges and pivot point will really help.
This is one reason not to have daydreamed back in Geometry class ~
Here some photos, hinges body attachment max upwards, and hinge lid side max forwards. Top of hinge base is touching top of car body.
Geometry correct 🙂
Any Speedster guys have similar pics to help this guy?
The pivot needs to be as high as possible. I have different hinges but this should give you the idea
I flipped the hinges side to side to give more clearance between hinges and cooling shroud (without need to grind on them). Flipped side to side they are about 2" further apart clearing the shroud.
@Duco I might suggest you drill new pivot holes in the angle brackets that bolt to the firewall. Make them as high as possible, you might have to weld extensions, (mine are only 1/2" below the fiberglass). After you do that you will have to change the location where the lid arms mount to the lid, (that's where you might have to swap the arms as Wolfgang suggests to keep from hitting the fan shroud).
Chris
Thanks all, I will try this weekend. Keep you posted on the outcome.
As mentioned by others, the pivot point needs to be as high as possible. I added pieces onto my existing hinges in order to move the pivot point as high as I could inside the opening. I hope the pictures help explain.
I managed to it way better. Bit of grinding and drilling. Putting it all to the top prevented the lid to come down all the way, so I had to go back and forward a bit.
Nice job!
Excellent!
Great job, Duco!
I love the cover “prop rod”, too!
I noticed the holes punched in your "Rain Guard" and no openings on the side of it like normal. If the aggregate total area of all those holes in less than 20 sq. inches, you need to open up the sides to let in more air for adequate cooling. From here it looks OK but at least check it to make sure. Nice work too !......Bruce
Hi Bruce, former owner made the holes. Sides are also open. I might slose the holes again.i see limited added value with a regular block. 👍
