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Originally Posted by Alessio:
Is it common for them to overfill the oil?  You think of I can tip some out it might improve?

Someone not familiar with the engine can easily overfill it. Did you add the oil yourself or if not, who did it ? 

 

I went to an oil change facility one time with my daily driver and the kid filling it lived in the neighbourhood and recognized me. He said he put in an extra two quarts because we were friends. Instant request for drain to proper level.

 

If you can't check the level yourself, get someone to do it now. It's pretty simple...there's only one dipstick, the little rod with the loop on it...pull it out, wipe it off and observe where the two marks are on the rod. Oil level should be somewhere between the two marks. Put the dipstick back in. Take it out again and check to see if the oil level is between the two marks on the dipstick. If it is above the two, there's too much oil in the engine.  Let us know what you find.

 

You cannot tip it out..it must be drained from the big nut under the bottom of the engine. Have a mechanic do it for you.

"Is it common for them to overfill the oil?" Did you have it done at a place familiar with old air cooled VWs?  VW use a sump with a screen filter that needs to be removed and washed.  Putting it back requires a gasket set and new copper washers - the acorn nuts get torqued to like 8 inch pounds - or you strip the fragile studs.  Additionally its due for a valve adjustment - best every other 3k oil change. Valve adjustment requires new cork gaskets - or they leak on the hot heater boxes.  Not complicated but not something I'd trust to "Iffy" lube.

Take Dr. Clock's warning seriously.....   Most IN/OUT oil changers don't have a clue as to the amount of oil required....  If you must use one, install a lable, tag, or some other highly visible notice as to type and quantity of oil to be used.....  Otherwise, you might just end up with 4 qts. of 5W20 (bargain oil of the day) in your VW 2.5 qt. sump, if you don't have an extended sump / cooler....   How do he know????

Alessio, go to the back of the car, put a mat or something on the ground, and look at the underside of the engine.

Do you have any hoses coming off the block and going to an oil filter?  You also could have an oil filter that's attached to the front of your engine.

Do you have what looks like an extra sump attached to the bottom of the engine?

If you have either of these you will need more than 2.5 quarts of oil.

 

As someone mentioned stock air cooled VW engines do not have oil filters.  They have a screen that sits on the oil drain plate.

 

10/30 is a very good choice, but get an oil with a high zinc content, such as:

Valvoline VR1

Amsoil Z-Red synthetic

Brad Penn (many of us on this forum use this oil)

 

So the oil dip stick is right on the 2nd level.  No higher no lower.  Trying to send some pics to answer the other questions.  The oil filter was placed by the mechanic.  He went in to change the oil and then told me I need a different type of filter to the one they had in stock.  I'll go see what prompt his decision and whether there was already a filter there.

Alessio,

If your car did not smoke before the oil change, then something happened at/after the oil change. First is your smoke coming from your exhaust pipes or somewhere else? Since you oil level is at the second level, (you do mean the upper level, right?) then I would look for oil leaking on the hot engine. If you oil filter is the wrong one, or they left the old oil seal still attached to the block, then the filter may be leaking on the muffler system and causing the smoke. If the oil line were loose, detached or broken, this may cause an oil leak too.  

I agree what Dr Clock and others have said, I do not like Jiffy Oil change places,  I would find some local guys and have them show you how to do your own and save money and be assured it was done right, by you.

 

Gary

Last edited by gwan2cruz - Gary
Originally Posted by Ron O, 1984/2010 IM, B.C. Canada:

10/30 is a very good choice, but get an oil with a high zinc content, such as:

Valvoline VR1

Amsoil Z-Red synthetic

Brad Penn (many of us on this forum use this oil)

 

I am now running the Amsoil Z-Rod 10w-30 synthetic based on this article:

 

http://www.aircooled.net/synthetic-vw-oil/

 

I notice that they are now recommending Valvoline VR-1. Here is what someone said they found out about Valvoline VR-1:

 

http://www.corvetteforum.com/f...-thought-it-was.html

 

Here is what Valvoline says about their racing oil. Most of us know the importance of zinc/phosphorus for flat tappet engines

 

http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/

 

I know this is off topic but important nonetheless. A friend of mine just bought mobil1 for his type 1 engine. Not the right oil IMO.

Last edited by Rusty S

Some times people put in a heavier weight oil 10/40 or 20/50 which will reduce oil burning and smoking. If you went to a 10/30, which most use here, then the lighter viscosity may cause more smoke than before. You did say this was the first oil change by you so the previous owner  may have used the heavier oil.

I would still check for leaking somewhere, you will see spots of oil on the ground. VW's like to "mark their spot", my Harley did that too. 

 

Gary

If its not oil burning off the outside of the engine but coming from the engine actually burning the oil, I'd first do a valve adjustment and then have the compression checked. Someone else asked if you have an oil breather system. It helps to handle internal engine air pressure. 

 

45k miles could be the life of a hard run VW engine that has seen infrequent maintenance (like oil changes and valve adjustments). Pictures of your engine would help.  A compression check will show worn rings, valve guides, and valves.  While you save up for a rebuild, you could reduce oil burning by using a heavier weight oil. 

 

If your oil level isn't going down after say 1k miles then it could be black smoke from engine running too rich or choke stuck.  Photos would show dual or single carb.

Originally Posted by Alessio:
I need to have someone else press the throttle so I can make sure only the exhaust is emitting then fumes and to make sure it is only blue/white smoke. It only smokes when I press down the throttle aggressively or in between gear shifts.

Really? You can't start it up and then open the rear lid and grab the linkage or arm on the carb? Or worst case, put the top down and push the throttle pedal with a broomstick?

Originally Posted by DannyP:
Originally Posted by Alessio:
I need to have someone else press the throttle so I can make sure only the exhaust is emitting then fumes and to make sure it is only blue/white smoke. It only smokes when I press down the throttle aggressively or in between gear shifts.

Really? You can't start it up and then open the rear lid and grab the linkage or arm on the carb? Or worst case, put the top down and push the throttle pedal with a broomstick?

 

 

No way man. Someone has to hold the clutch in and keep the brakes on...

Btw you guys are always the best and most useful source of information.  I bought this car a couple years ago when living in London and has a certified Vw guy that specialised in old bugs look at it before I purchased it from a seller in Southern California.  I've a few months off work now so finally getting to drive if and enjoy the car.  I'm discovering new issues everyday.  So far I've put a lot of love and money into this relationship and hoping to get some love back soon.

Thanks,
A

Well you know Alessio that if you become a supporting member you will gain valuable access to the members only areas that are only available to Supporting Members. You will find very good technical resources specific to your make of car as well as a wealth of time saving tips and tricks to make ownership all the more enjoyable. As a supporting member you will be joining your brothers and sisters in saying thank you for helping and providing years of collective experience.

 

Alessio we hope to see those beautiful yellow letters that say Supporting Member under your photo soon!

Cute little carbs there, and what would seem to be a working crankcase ventilation system.  Still no confirmation of the oil filter yes/no, which would be underneath if at all.  So we'd be looking for a couple more pics.  Maybe if you get the light right, you could capture a picture of the smoke.  That would help the vest-pocket experts here, I am sure.

 

And txs, on behalf of our notorious webmaster, Theron, for your $$upport

I'm thinking a bad fuel pump diaphragm, which would make the oil dark and smelly.

 

Or it is possible that the fuel pump pressure is too high, it could be up to 10 pounds with a stock pump.

 

Or maybe they sucked the old out of the top of the engine, not getting 100% of the old out hence the dark looking fresh oil.

Danny P might be on to something with the pumping out of the oil.  Just took wife's MB in for service.  They suck oil out once a year as part of the $300 oil change (rip off I know but had couple warranty issues at warrenty end).  Manual says 8.5 qts - the service slip this time says 6 qts used for oil change.  They prefer pump out as its quick and clean for them.  It can be drained but you have to remove a plastic shield under engine by removing 8 bolts. So they changed only 3/4 of my oil! I'll do it myself next year.

 

If gas is in oil, it might be so thin and clear you might not see it on dip stick - even though it would raise the level.

 

Ok so he has an oil breather system --- but no breather box - need TLC or touch of the madness!

 

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