Engine stand

If you have a sturdy workbench get the one that bolts on the top.  When you're finished just remove it and put it in your tool box.  Floor stands are better but always in the way when not in use.  Don't forget to get the attachment for the crankshaft assembly also...............Bruce

I can't see a link to your "TD Stand" so can't picture it in my head.

The problem I found is that most engine shop stands expect to see a flat flange that mates to the transmission.  VW engines have a 3/16" deep lip along the mating flange such that the stand mount doesn't sit flat to the case when assembled to the engine - But you've already found that out, right?

I have a rolling universal floor stand originally made for a V8 (from Costco) and I welded longer pieces of 1" steel pipe to the adjustable mount arms, then relieved that area on the engine end of the pipes so they clear that ridge, like this (looking at passenger side top bolt, engine case right center in photo, stand off to the left):

The other "VW Engine Bench Stands" only mount to the top two engine bolts, not the bottom two studs (I can secure them all) and they position the engine hangers so that they are just outside of that case ridge.

https://www.amazon.com/Empi-Be...swagen/dp/B00BJPY9BG

My floor stand literally has a single (Big Moosey) bolt holding it all together so when I'm done using it, it quickly comes apart and gets stored in the shop attic.

Ok thanks Bruce and Gordon.  I literally haven’t even tried it yet (I am new to air cooled) but assumed there were clearance issues somewhere - given the proliferation of pictures with the alternate stands.
I already have a typical rolling floor stand so sound like my options are

1) get a bench stand and affix to my rolling workbench - it’s sizable I use it for welding

2) get a bench stand and adapt it to fit into the rolling stanf

3) modify current stand like Gordon - I like picking up the other stud points…

@MikeP posted:

2) get a bench stand and adapt it to fit into the rolling stanf

Yes, #2.  For example:  Harbor Freight engine Stand modified for 1600 CC Classic VW engines - YouTube

There's nothing wrong with mounting the stand to your workbench, but it ties up your workbench.  It is kind of handy to move the engine off to the side when you are not working on it.  Thus option #2 is the way I went.

Cost wise; you are adding $100 or so to the cost of your engine build, which is peanuts in the big picture.  The Harbor Freight engine stand knocks down for compact storage at the end of the project.  Or, like me, you eventually throw it away or give it away when finished with it (I kept the bench mount assembly, just in case).

4) buy a cheap HF stand and build your own head.  

I have found the cheap bench top models to be just that, cheap. They are made with substandard materials and flex a lot.  

I'm a bit of a tool whore and like to make my own, when possible. As Bruce said, a crank assembly fixture is a nice thing to have. I just used an old gland nut and removed the needle bearings, then bored it out on the lathe and added an insert to bolt it to a scrape piece of metal that I hold in a vise.

The nice thing about this is I also use the gland nut with the rear main seal installer I made, works great.

Mine is similar to the one in the Youtube Vid, just a lot older.  But as I mentioned, I used it for a Flathead V8 weighing maybe 4X a VW engine (which distorted the rotation tubes at the top of the stand making it harder to turn these days).

Here it is in the shop, taking up space, but it rolls around easily to push it out of the way.  They're all pretty much the same unless you get a "professional" version that's much more rugged and $$$$.

I feel a lot better about mounting it to the engine with all four bolts to spread out the stress on the case.  BTW:  You'll see, when you start measuring things, that the bottom tubes for the engine mounting studs into the transaxle bellhousing need to be slightly shorter than the bolts at the top, because the lower studs are shorter than the top bolts.  And, of course, you need to remove the clutch for clearance.  I'm sure you'll figure all this out.

It ain't Rocket Science.  For that we have Kelly Frazier @El Frazoo

The project for this afternoon is to somehow attach an anti-mouse metal mesh over the fan opening in that shroud over on the bench without screwing up the shroud.  

Can you tell that I'm still waiting for parts?

I have three engine stands.

I have a VW/Porsche factory bench stand bolted on a welded up bracket onto a cheap foldable engine stand. That is my number one, very sturdy. Easy to rotate and lock in any position with a squeeze clamp. Plus I can easily take it with me. One big bolt and it breaks down.

I also have a super cheap($25 back in 2002 from Cip1.cpm) bench stand. That thing barely holds a transmission for rebuilding. But it works well enough.

My wife got me another engine stand for Christmas last year. It is one of the cheaper ones money-wise, but is well made. I think the bench version is around $50.

https://aapistons.com/products...3EAQYASABEgLqUvD_BwE

It is certainly nicely welded and strong enough for a fully dressed engine with carbs, exhaust, fan, and alternator. That's in the neighborhood of 200 pounds.

It uses heavy wall tubing and the tabs are almost 1/2" thick. Welding looks really nice also. It is not flimsy by any stretch.

You can temporarily bolt it to a bench or other stand then remove it when you are done with the project.

A dedicated VW stand allows you to install or remove the clutch easily with the flywheel locked on the engine stand.

Another bit of info for you all: The hole spacing is NOT equidistant on a VW. Engine stands are designed to mount a case half so you can assemble/disassemble the motor. It is about 8.5" vertically between a stud and the upper case bolt hole. I ALWAYS mount the case with the distributor side on the stand, for easier assembly. It is about 7.75" between studs or upper bolt holes.

Like Rick, I used an old gland nut as a crank assembly tool. I simply welded it to a chunk of steel and put it in my vice.

Years ago I found rusted remains of a dune buggies rusted pan in a field.  I'm a hoarder and for some reason didn't remove the transaxle housing that was really all that was left.  It would have made a great stand and even a test platform with a starter mounted.  Oh well.  Could have made into this-

I have the cheap bench mount welded to HF engine stand - I don't trust the 2 bolts to hold a T4 engine - Afraid it will break the engine case so I like Gordon's rig.

ok thanks Danny - I ordered one of those bench stands with the 2 3/8" shank that should fit into my floor stand. I checked out my friend's stand last night - he has a very robust-looking factory type one, but he currently has his 3.2 carrera motor hanging off it in various state of repair