Anyone know what the proper engine (oil)temp should be? What is the maximum without damage and what is the lower range for proper running?
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Anyone know what the proper engine (oil)temp should be? What is the maximum without damage and what is the lower range for proper running?
Jay,
I live in Central California and the Ambient has been over 100 Degrees for about 6 weeks now and with the engine running properly (Not Lean) 220-240 Degrees Oil Temp isn't uncommon. I'll give it a rest if it gets over 240.
I also let the engine warm up on "cold start" before I drive it hard becaue if you warm up the engine your engine will last longer.(It warms up pretty quick on hot days)
I run a modified oiling system (Dog House Cooler, Aux-Oil Cooler and Large pump W/40W Castrol Summer-30W Winter). I also run Premium Gas, I'm particular carful of Detonation.
Other owners will have their oun stories however.
Best Regards,
Jack Blake
I live in Central California and the Ambient has been over 100 Degrees for about 6 weeks now and with the engine running properly (Not Lean) 220-240 Degrees Oil Temp isn't uncommon. I'll give it a rest if it gets over 240.
I also let the engine warm up on "cold start" before I drive it hard becaue if you warm up the engine your engine will last longer.(It warms up pretty quick on hot days)
I run a modified oiling system (Dog House Cooler, Aux-Oil Cooler and Large pump W/40W Castrol Summer-30W Winter). I also run Premium Gas, I'm particular carful of Detonation.
Other owners will have their oun stories however.
Best Regards,
Jack Blake
180-220 is the sweet spot
225-235 is nice and warm
240+ is hot.
as long as you can maintain pressure at 235+. it will not do immediate harm to the engine to run at taht temp, but it does severely break down the oil, and its ability to keep its viscosity.
225-235 is nice and warm
240+ is hot.
as long as you can maintain pressure at 235+. it will not do immediate harm to the engine to run at taht temp, but it does severely break down the oil, and its ability to keep its viscosity.
thanks, thats about what I figured and what things look like now. Definately like to warm the engine. Jake, what is "good" pressure, say at 2500 rpm on a hot engine. Definately would like to look into your engines in the future. Is it possible to use (send) my existing engine and use the good parts but blueprint and upgrade to your specs?
No less than 40 PSI at 3,000RPM with a 200 degree oil temp.
thats my standard, but I run different tolerances than most builders. I Like loose side clearances and rod mods that bleed down pressure into volume.
thats my standard, but I run different tolerances than most builders. I Like loose side clearances and rod mods that bleed down pressure into volume.
I don't remember where my mechanic hooked up the temp guage. But it reads closer to 300. Where should I have him hook it up? Does it need to be full flowed (which it is not)?
David
David
David, I am not an expert but that sounds more like a head temp guage than oil temp. Could someone explain the "full flow" concept and how it differs from what I assume is stock.
To go back to Jack: with all that cooling power, it seems that 240 would not be reached. Is your engine bay sealed off? got a thread going in the other tech forum and consensses is that its a good idea. I know in the old VW days it was essential for proper cooling. I just ordered a kit from JPS. Mine has a dog house (new concept to me) and an came with an aux cooling kit w/fan, but it has not been installed yet. other posters have said that with my 1800 the dog cooler is enough.
Jay, go to the "Knowledge" section of this site and scroll down to and read the article on cooling - there are over 20 items you can check and remedy if necessary.
GEARING and engine RPM at sustained speeds has MORE to do with oil temps than anything else, all combined!
I have made a gearing swap in the same car (taller 4th gear) and dropped the oil temp 40 degrees on the same engine....
Just because somkeone has a 911 shroud DOES NOT mean the engine is going to have any cooler running temperatures..
Next week I will be testing 9 TIV cooling systems comprehensively, and logging data from all of them at 4 diferent load ranges and constant speeds. Data will be logged every 5 minutes of run time for a solid hour. All the 911 systems wiil be tested with both a 5 and 11 blade fan and a 1.3 and 1.% drive ratio, and even a 1:1 ratio to help prove a point.
This will all be on the same engine, with no tuning changes.
I plan on doing the same test outline with a TI engine of 2165cc as soon as my first Type I DTM pops out of the mold.
I have made a gearing swap in the same car (taller 4th gear) and dropped the oil temp 40 degrees on the same engine....
Just because somkeone has a 911 shroud DOES NOT mean the engine is going to have any cooler running temperatures..
Next week I will be testing 9 TIV cooling systems comprehensively, and logging data from all of them at 4 diferent load ranges and constant speeds. Data will be logged every 5 minutes of run time for a solid hour. All the 911 systems wiil be tested with both a 5 and 11 blade fan and a 1.3 and 1.% drive ratio, and even a 1:1 ratio to help prove a point.
This will all be on the same engine, with no tuning changes.
I plan on doing the same test outline with a TI engine of 2165cc as soon as my first Type I DTM pops out of the mold.
Jay or anyone,
If my gauge is hooked up to the head. How much heat is too much? Is 275-300 OK? What should be the average running temp? At what point should I pull over and let it cool off? Get alarmed?
David
If my gauge is hooked up to the head. How much heat is too much? Is 275-300 OK? What should be the average running temp? At what point should I pull over and let it cool off? Get alarmed?
David
George, thanks, I checked it out and I am now working on #7 the engine bay sealing, as I think this is the major problem (there is none). should get the kit from John at JPS tomorrow and we will see. Would really like to go to a different exhaust (it has heater boxes and a Monza) and was wondering if the 1 1/2 headers would fit my stock (I think) heads.
David, sorry I threw that out cause I am not qualified, maybe George knows. Look at the cooling section that George recommends and maybe try the meat thermometer to check on your guage.
David, sorry I threw that out cause I am not qualified, maybe George knows. Look at the cooling section that George recommends and maybe try the meat thermometer to check on your guage.
For the record, Mainely, tele. 207 698 7646, will soon be offering a oil dip stick with temp guage. Here's the info,"our dipstick has a 1" oil temp guage that is manufactured with a glass lens that is hermetically sealed so that the fuel and oil around your engine compartment will not affect it. this guage is +/- 1% over the full span of 50 to 300 degrees. Around $50 Eddie
Eddie, is 'Mainely' a VW store? Is the gauge in the motor bay, or do you wire it to your dash? I've been using a meat thermometer, but the shaft is short, so I'm not sure if it reaches the oil. I'm not sure if it's picking up the temperature of the metal surrounding it and not the oil and I'm not sure if that makes any difference.
Ron
Ron
Ron,
I couldn't find a meat or candy thermometer that was long enough, had a shaft that was small enough or had a scale that went high enough until I went to an upscale cooking supplies store. There I had a choice of two or three apparently good quality items. Mine is long enough to touch bottom and then some. I usually go all the way down and then back out about 1/8". I get consistant readings and I am trusting that they are accurate. Probably should try the "boil test" but haven't gotten around to it.
John H.
I couldn't find a meat or candy thermometer that was long enough, had a shaft that was small enough or had a scale that went high enough until I went to an upscale cooking supplies store. There I had a choice of two or three apparently good quality items. Mine is long enough to touch bottom and then some. I usually go all the way down and then back out about 1/8". I get consistant readings and I am trusting that they are accurate. Probably should try the "boil test" but haven't gotten around to it.
John H.
Ron, Mainely is a company that makes these dipsticks with a guage on the top end, that stay in the engine compartment. They presently make them for 356's 912's and will soon make them for type 1's and type 4's. The type 4 guage will be ready in 2 weeks. The type 1 guage will be ready for sale in 4 weeks. I'am on the list. Eddie
(Message Edited 8/1/2003 10:58:35 AM)
(Message Edited 8/1/2003 10:58:35 AM)
Eddie, that sounds like the gauge for me too. I have the typical 914 dash gauge that has a long green zone and then a short red zone. I had the car up to 90 mph and cruised for a bit to see what the temp would do. (outside temperature was about 85 degrees F.) The temperature gauge crept up to about 1/8" from the red zone, then stayed there. I'd like to know what the actual temperature was. With the gauge you mentioned I could just pull over, pop the hood and take a look. Does this place have an email or web site?
Ron
Ron
When your engine gets that hot, what happens to the oil pressure at idle? I would think th oil would get very thin. If the oil pressure drops because it thins out so much, is that a problem? I guess using a heavier weight oil would help?
Ron
(Message Edited 8/1/2003 3:02:26 PM)
Ron
(Message Edited 8/1/2003 3:02:26 PM)
Ron: I have the same gauge. When my needle was 1/4 inch from the red zone, the thermometer read 200 on he nose. My fan thermo switch kicks in at 180 or half way on the gauge. My meat thermometer isn't that long,
say 6" or so but it makes it in the oil. I thought it would have to been longer but it works.
BD
(Message Edited 8/1/2003 3:26:45 PM)
say 6" or so but it makes it in the oil. I thought it would have to been longer but it works.
BD
(Message Edited 8/1/2003 3:26:45 PM)
The oil temp gauges with green band and red area on the right will vary one to another, as will the senders. An accurate chef's thermometer allows you to kinda/sorta calibrate the needle position on the gauge with actual temps in the sump.
The desired "normal" temperature is around 190 F but you will probably see more than that on hot days, especially if you're cruising at 70 mph on the freeway. As long as you don't go much over 225 F for extended periods of time under heavy loads there's not much to worry about.
(Message Edited 8/1/2003 4:44:41 PM)
The desired "normal" temperature is around 190 F but you will probably see more than that on hot days, especially if you're cruising at 70 mph on the freeway. As long as you don't go much over 225 F for extended periods of time under heavy loads there's not much to worry about.
(Message Edited 8/1/2003 4:44:41 PM)
It will be interesting to see what happens to my temperature when I do an oil change in a few weeks. I'm going from 10W30 Quaker State to 10w30 Royal Purple synthetic.
Ron
Ron
I posted that below...........
I just got a new 1914 cc engine in my 2003 Speedster which had the 1600 cc engine from Vintage Speedster in Ca. It seems to run quite hot when I go up the Co mountains. I haven't read all the recent comments about the engine temperature issues, but would like to know from someone who has a similar engine or experience with this:
1) Did you put any additional cooling devices in ??
2) Should I put in a digital/analog oil thermometer showing numbers instead of the simple bar-like style which is presently in there ? Any recommendations ?
3) What does the far right temp range correlate to in degrees F (the area just before the red zone)? That's the range I maxed on a 80 degree day going 70-80 mph.
Thanks
1) Did you put any additional cooling devices in ??
2) Should I put in a digital/analog oil thermometer showing numbers instead of the simple bar-like style which is presently in there ? Any recommendations ?
3) What does the far right temp range correlate to in degrees F (the area just before the red zone)? That's the range I maxed on a 80 degree day going 70-80 mph.
Thanks