Engine tin

I've got an old (circa '83)CMC kit. When I built it about 12 years ago, I really did a half-a**ed job on the tin. Does anyone have templates to form the tin pieces? The car's in deep storage for the winter and I'd love to do some metal work while it's sleeping. Thanks in advance.

Charles:
I made templates out of brown craft paper and then made my engine compartment shields similar to those shown in the CMC handbook. Material used was heat duct (HVAC) sheetmetal donated by a local shop. I tossed the templates when I finished the metal pieces, but they're really easy to make right in the car. Once finished and installed, they seal the compartment up really well - (even keep most of the dust out!) and it seems to run quite cool, even on very hot days on turnpikes (I'm guessing well under 220). I also used rubber floor mat material across the front (forward) end of the engine bay to seal between the firewall and the horizontal shields. There is an upper (rear, inside engine bay) and lower, horseshoe shaped piece (below the engine and along both sides). They work in conjunction with the normal VW engine tins. I did not use the "normal" VW rubber sealing gaskets, instead using black rubber weatherstrip, usualy 3/8" x 5/8" (comes on a roll). I've included pictures as best I could, but these are really easy to mock up with a big sheet of paper held in with tape and then cut it out just as you want it. Then use that as a template for your metal pieces - that way you'll get whatever custom cuts and holes you'll need to match your frame/body members.
Hope this helps.........Gordon

Gordon: Thanks for the tips and the pix. Unfortunately, the car is put away for the winter in a barn I can't get into, so I can't get to the engine to make the templates. That's why I was sort of hoping someone had a set of them hanging around that I could copy and get the metal work done during our interminable winter. Thanks anyhow.

Gordon,

That looks pro... nice job. So in holding down your basic panels are you using scews, nuts bolts, Dzeus(sp?) fastners, or?????

Jim

Jim:

The panels are all held in with 10/32 screws with washers and captive star washers under the heads. That means that the CMC box frame had to be drilled and tap'd (ok, so this project was supposed to be STRESS therapy!) to hold it all together. The lower (horseshoe) shield rides on top of the head tins and has some foam rubber weatherstrip on it, and the top shield rides on top of the rear engine tin with 1/8" weatherstrip (close fit). Also, I ran the rear wiring under the CMC frame and used that neat, split and corrugated tubing made for wiring from NAPA. Found that it melts at a low temp(!), so I replaced that tubing and then added a heat shield under the back, above the quiet pack mufflers and attached under the frame - seems to work well. All shields can be removed in about 20 minutes.
Gordon

Geez, what would I do for therapy if I didn't change the engine tin once in awhile! Side benefit, you can learn a lot about your vehicle spending several weekends on the creeper staring up at. Related danger, everything you see is upside down and sorta backwards, so you end up thinking its a left hand part, and it turns out to be a right hand part.
Guess I envy you guys with factory tin. I have a type 4 converted to vertical cooling with a fiberglass shroud and NO WAY to attach engine tin. Which is why I keep changing the tin, looking for a reasonable seal. Next time I'm going to mold a horizontal lip all the way around the shroud at frame height, and use it to transition to tin or straight to a rubber seal. Aw, the satisfaction of doing it three times!