I have an elderly California-made Intermeccanica with no engine tin. Does anyone have an appropriate template that can be sent to me. Much appreciated. Robert Story
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I have an elderly California-made Intermeccanica with no engine tin. Does anyone have an appropriate template that can be sent to me. Much appreciated. Robert Story
I have a seasoned IM as well... and am currently replacing the engine.... are you seeking true engine tin measurements, or the additional "tin" used to seal the upper engine compartment off from the lower?
Seeking tin to seal off upper part of engine from lower part. Problem is that their "meeting place" as designed by VW, is misaligned. Henry Reisner advised to use gasket material to seal this area.
VW Bus "H" foam seal works great. ~ALan
Sorry, still not clear to me how best to help. :)
If your engine compartment is like mine, the placement of the motor (and the engine tin) in the engine bay is alone insufficient to isolate the upper engine from the lower engine.... and so my engine compartment includes three, removable, horizontally oriented, rigid-fiberglass panels that attach to both the car subframe, and the engine tin.... effectively separating the upper and lower portions of the engine from one another. As the panels bolt directly to the engine tin there is little need for additional rubber gasketing.
These panels are currently removed for my engine swap, I would be happy to trace them and mail you templates... the panels could then easily be replicated from the material of your choosing.
If this helps to solve your problem, please let me know and I will proceed.
If your engine compartment is like mine, the placement of the motor (and the engine tin) in the engine bay is alone insufficient to isolate the upper engine from the lower engine.... and so my engine compartment includes three, removable, horizontally oriented, rigid-fiberglass panels that attach to both the car subframe, and the engine tin.... effectively separating the upper and lower portions of the engine from one another. As the panels bolt directly to the engine tin there is little need for additional rubber gasketing.
These panels are currently removed for my engine swap, I would be happy to trace them and mail you templates... the panels could then easily be replicated from the material of your choosing.
If this helps to solve your problem, please let me know and I will proceed.
I don't want to hijack the thread of trigger severe drift.
But, does anyone have any suggestions for sealing gaps in the actual engine tin - fan shroud, cylinder tin, etc.
I thought about using silicone sealant the same color as the tin paint. Then I thought that would cause problems if I have to take things apart.
Ideally, it would match the tin pieces (red) and not be noticeable or unsightly.
Thanks.
Mike
But, does anyone have any suggestions for sealing gaps in the actual engine tin - fan shroud, cylinder tin, etc.
I thought about using silicone sealant the same color as the tin paint. Then I thought that would cause problems if I have to take things apart.
Ideally, it would match the tin pieces (red) and not be noticeable or unsightly.
Thanks.
Mike
I used an old piece of windshield washer spray hose and split down the middle and used it to seal the alternator to the shroud as well as around my tins. It cut down on the rattle/vibration and gaps. But my gaps are also very small since the rebuild of my sealing tins.