engine/trans mount

Does anyone here have a trick to change the front transmission mount without removing the engine? I just pulled the nuts and bolts only to discover that the studs on the chassis side have the part captive. It looks like the engine will have to move forward an inch or so.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

-mike

Pull the engine. It is good practice and will make it easier to unbolt the rear mounts.

If you use the aftermarket urethane mounts you can cut the old bolts off the broken mount. The urethane mount will slide in and be bolted without sliding the tranny rearward.

I prefer the stock mounts.

Mike and Eric:

I got a set of urethane mounts for mine, but a number of folks have talked me out of using them. Urethane tends to be REALLY STIFF and the subsequent vibration might be too much to live with......gn

Hi Mike,
I used to change those mounts often. That was before I installed a Gene Berg trans mount, part#GB643. If I'm not mistaken, I used to disconnect the clutch cable at the trans and disconnect the trottle cable at the engine and I think loosen the 4 nuts that secure the two rear engine/trans mounts. Look around under ther for anything else you may need to loosen. Then get out the prybar and go to town. You should be able to squeeze the old one out and the new one in.

Good Luck, Joel

Thanks for the replys guys.

Well, I might as well drop the engine at this point. The front mount failed completely and spectacularly, and the rear mounts are heading that way (sagging and cracked). I had hoped that it would be a quick repair, because of the fact that I have neither the time nor space to do a major project. On the bright side, maybe I can take care of some of the leaks while I have the engine out.

I guess the 1800 will be living outside for a while. I just hope I can get "Inga" back on the road before next winter comes along.

-mike

I once did a clutch change on my 62 Beetle with bricks instead of a jack. I stacked three bricks per side and pulled the engine back onto the bricks. I then removed a brick from each side until the engine was on the ground.

After taking my core clutch and flywheel to Vee Dubs Unlimited on my bicycle I returned with a re-surfaced flywheel and new clutch. I then pulled up on each side to get the bricks back under the heater boxes one at a time.

The whole process took about 2 hours.

The Speedster is a little harder to do, because it's hard to get leverage to push the engine back onto the spline. A good roller floor jack, some beer and an assistant can make the engine swap as easy as a Beetle.

Good luck.