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My tach is very squirrley--it's not smooth at all and jumps around pretty wildly. Cruising at say 50 it's sorta steady but if you "blip" the accelerator it will jump 'way up.

I know that it is activated by the coil (right?) and the coil connections are good.

What is causing this erratic tach?

Thanks!---Jack

2007 Vintage Speedster/ Jake Raby TYPE IV engine

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My tach is very squirrley--it's not smooth at all and jumps around pretty wildly. Cruising at say 50 it's sorta steady but if you "blip" the accelerator it will jump 'way up.

I know that it is activated by the coil (right?) and the coil connections are good.

What is causing this erratic tach?

Thanks!---Jack
I hope you find out the why, as I have same, and so do many others, apparently. I have been unable to find out what about the unit makes it do this, other than: "It's a cheapo Chinese POS." Well, in my case that is true: I have the Chniese look-alike. The fellows at North Hollywood Speedo say they will gut the thing you have, and replace w/ genuine VDO workings, and then pack it in the Chinese case and send it back. ~$200.00. Keeping the faceplate and can gives you the same look on the dash. Since my car is brand new, JPS says he will cover this. The replacement is a work in progress, so we'll see how it turns out, and how long it takes. I sent Steele my tach on Sat. "Quick" here would probably be 3 weeks.

PS: John sent me a replacement tach afew weeks ago, another Chinese version that he said was "reworked" by NHS. That one was not jumpy at all, but acted as though it had had a lobotomy. First several days, nothing I did w/ engine got a reading over 4,000. Then comparing speed and revs in 4th gear, found out that the tach was reading one thing yesterday, and something else today. 3,000 RPMs showed anywhere between 60 and 80 MPH. My bet is both instruments are whacky, but I can live w/out looking at the speedo -- not so the tach.
I had this issue with a chevy so may not be anywhere near the same. I upgraded from a points ignition to electronic and my older tach would do exactly as you describe. Throttle blip would bury it. Mechanic told me I had two choices, put in an inline capacitor to filter the DC spike or replace my tach with a newer unit that was built for electronic ignition (capacitor built into the input). I wish I was technical enough to know why... Something about difference in dwell between points and electronic... I opted for a new tach because I liked the shift light it had built in and everything worked like a champ. Good luck!
FWIW - I experienced a similar problem and checked about every part and connection in the engine compartment.... finally traced the erratic tach to a corroded fuse/fuse contacts in the fuse block. Cleaned the contacts, replaced the fuse -- problem was eliminated, with many happy miles now to prove it.
Wolfgang,

Excellent input -- you are a true font of knowledge. Now, if we could just get you back on the road . . .

I wonder if this [link] is what JPS had done by NHS for the second replacement tach I was sent? Maybe. Or maybe they just added a capacitor. By the sluggish way the second tach works, sounds like a capacitor to me. I have asked JPS to tell me how the original out-of-the-box Chinese tach and the replacement one differ; might as well have asked the ayatolah(?) for a martini, as no reply was given. so just going on guesswork. Armed w/ this new info, I will ask again, and see what happens.

In case I did not mention, I have an "electronic points" style distributor. I wonder if this has something to do w/ how things work?
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