ex356er new CMC purchase

Check the Chassis # (early VIN) stamped into back of tunnel for positive id.  A 4th digit of "2 + Super beetle (3rd digit is year).  Later Supers were the McPherson Strut front end and had to be converted to the std H front beam thru cutting and welding or extra available CMC kit.  Stoddard PORSCHE badging, some exterior gaskets (hood handle, bumper guards, windshield post) and tail lights fit.  OEM engine grille is bigger by 1/4" all around so takes cutting and fiberglassing if you want to get rid of the hibachi cast grill.  Head lights are pre '67 VW.  Front turns are 18-wheeler clearance lights!

Post photos and we'll help you spend your $$$!

A good source for parts is http://vintagespeedsterparts.com/ although some parts there have recently doubled in price --- like the rear light assemblies!  Some like Sierra Madre http://www.sierramadrecollection.com/

Some of current builders can supply parts too - VS interiors and tops fit.  They moved to AZ from CA recently.  SE/Beck has supplied a lot of windshields to other makes here.

Note- all Super Beetles are the Mcpherson strut front suspension, and as Greg says, to be used in our cars have to be modified to accept a beam front end.

ALB posted:

Note- all Super Beetles are the Mcpherson strut front suspension, and as Greg says, to be used in our cars the front of the pan has to be modified to accept a beam front end.

Duncan (that was my Freshman college room mate’s name, too!  And he now has a 356 C coupe!!):

Some Stoddard stuff fits, and some doesn’t.   Same for Sierra Madre or International Mercantile.  Just ask us - We know what will work on your your CMC but it is easier for us to have you ask about a specific part.  Tell us what you’re looking for, and someone can, most likely, tell you where to get it.

Probably, your ‘72 pan was NOT a Superbeetle.  VW shipped “Super Beetle” MacPherson strut ends as an option from 1971 - 1974 and after that went all strut front ends til year end 1977.  As mentioned, a “Super Beetle” did, indeed, have a MacPherson strut front end and front disk brakes as standard, but trust me on this.....  Maybe three or four were converted from MacPherson struts to a beam front suspension for Speedsters.  It was simply easier all around to go find an earlier, beam-front pan to build into something like a dune buggy or Speedster.   The mere fact that what you have under the hood fits, says that you have a front beam suspension (the struts were too tall to fit under the hood).  Simple, huh?  

That means that you can follow the shop manual for a ‘69 - ‘72 (beam front) car and everything should be fine.  You should have a full “IRS” rear, meaning that you have small, exposed drive axles with CV joints on each side back there, instead of “swing arms” with the drive axles enclosed in tubes that swing up and down.  IRS suspension is superior in handling characteristics to swing arm, so that is a good thing.  

Another good thing is that CMC seemed to “overbuild” their cars . Meaning that the fiberglass, while still mostly built up in thickness with a “chopper gun”, was a pretty strong body.  The one weak point might be if the front body support was left off when built.  That was a channel support that sat on top of the front axle beam and held up the nose of the car. If that was used (you can look up under the nose and see if it is there), you should never get front cracks near the headlights.  If it was not assembled, it is reasonably easy to retrofit (we can help) and it is made from a piece of 1-1/2” rectangular tube available from Home Depot.

So it should be a fun car for you.  Power of a 1915 is about the same as a Super 90, but with better brakes ( if the front brakes are disks! ).  I have a CMC with a 2,110 (around 145 hp) with front disks and cabriolet-ish seats that I started building in the mid 1990’s and have been “finishing” ever since - it has gone through a series of “improvements” in the ensuing years, for sure (better front end bushings, better rear suspension control, better seats, gas heater, etc).  Don’t know what’s more fun......working on it or driving it.

We’re a good and knowledgeable group.  We tend to wander a lot in answering questions, but it’s all good stuff.  

Welcome to the Madness that we call “ Speedster Ownership” !!!

Gordon

The “Speedstah Guy” from Massachusetts

Where are you located??

Just a note, Gordon- Super Beetles didn't come with front disc brakes in N. America. I believe they did in Europe, though. Not sure if it was an option or standard equipment, and I don't know why people never imported them over here... al

THAT is because you never bought a Super Beetle from Atamian Motors in Worcester, Massachusetts.  

Bob Atamian (son of Nish Atamian, who brought his Beetle back from Europe after serving there after WW II to help enact the Marshall Plan) was a weekend Formula Vee racer and knew the advantage of front disk brakes and ordered EVERY Super Beetle he sold to have them as a safety advantage.  The brakes were essentially the same as what they already had on the Karmann Ghias they sold, and we all (Bob especially) knew how good they were, so it was not a big deal for his techs to service them, but it was a real BIG DEAL for all of his customers to have a better-stopping car.  There was another dealer in Boston (can’t remember the name) who ordered them that way from Germany - Maybe they were the only two around here?  Who knows......  Rare, yes.  But they were out there.

Thanks very much everybody for the quick an detailed responses... I am a pilot out working at the moment so the slow response.

Yes, I thought I saw subtle differences, in (accessories) it's missing a front turn lens and knew it wasn't P car type. lol. It seems overall well constructed, but it could use refreshing particularly interior and top and curtains. I would prefer to go OE type rubber mats on the floor with cocoas and lose the GM carpet, go with the square weave on the other areas, probably change color in interior. The exterior is appliance white, more than OE Ivory but is so good that cant justify painting. Would like to improve lighting both in accuracy and intensity. Needs Tonneau cover.

VW data tag is 1122027748, I assume tunnel is the same, but will check.  I don't feel disk brakes. It has 4 bolt wheels (would rather go 5 style) but these are nice... appears lowered a little too.  I just bought it and am traveling. The PO just had a new 1800 longblock installed by a reputable indy shop and its still in break in... I see many things that need attention airflow wise in cooling tin from my previous experience... but the car is all there runs drives pretty well. Steering box has a little too much play in center... shift linkage can be much better but seems like a good place to start. The gal cried when I drove away, they were moving overseas. No spider webbing or stress risers etc, except grab handle is apparently more for looks!? Overall very happy and can drive as is after some engine cooling work. Thanks for additional comments. I will look over front beam stuff, disks would be nice.

Great community I can tell already! Duncan

Hello Duncan!

Welcome to the site. Always glad to find another CMC owner. Based on the photos the car appears to have front discs. 

I'd fix the interior up a bit and drive it!

Looks like a super nice and fun to little car.

Ted

Hey Ted - Is there a database with the CMC kit serials? ie What year is this kit? Intersting I see now what looks like disks peaking through in pic... I noticed they grab in front a little early too.

Thanks

Duncan

I have no idea about a CMC serial number data base. My car doesn't have one of those fancy data plates. I'm not sure how many of them did. 

Super hard to say 'when' your kit was first sold without the original paperwork from CMC.

As far as I have been able to ascertain on CMC body numbers, the letter prefix (“S” on yours) supposedly referred to the initial of the original sales person at CMC, and the 4 or 5 digit body number refers to the sequential (serial) number of the body type.  I guess that was about as unique as one could get with a CMC order.   After I heard that (and believed it for a while) I began to surmise that the “S” meant “Standard” body style, while “C” meant “California” or wide body.  Both could be accurate....Who knows these days?  Mine is, in fact, a “California” and my body number is C1208, so there yah go.  As far as I know, there is no database for CMC serial numbers (but I was such a PITA to the CMC people in the end, that they wouldn’t have shared that info, anyway).  

CMC “appliance white” is close (but still different) from Porsche “Arctic White”  If it is still Gel Coat and looks good, just give it a good buff and wax and it should look great.

The front turn lens mount will readily accept a regular 356A directional lens, just use some closed cell foam washers to seat the lens under the trim ring to hold it fast.  I would suggest the taller lens to clear the light bulb, unless you like the shorter lens style and can find some shorter bulbs (think LEDs).  I went with some H4 headlight replacements and gained all the light back that I was looking for.  Eventually, I went for LED tail lights, but they weren’t really necessary, just trying to keep up with others on here.

The interior stuff should be the same as a VS, but Dr. Clock would know that better then me.  If you go with Coco mats, remember that the foot well is still a VW sedan.

The wheels look like either funky 914 or funkier VW (or maybe EMPI?)  Not sure which, but I DO get off on the “Beetle” floor mats.      

For door panels, most people just used 3/16” thick “Beaver Board” from Home Depot, then glue the vinyl to it with 3M Super 90 upholstery adhesive (Also Home Depot)  - It comes in an aerosol can.  Use lots.  You can back it with 1/8” thick cushion, like hardwood floor under-padding.

I really like the dash.  Well spaced and looks nice.  More gauges than mine, for sure.

BTW, a white CMC with a white convertible top is very, very rare.  Jus sayin......

Keep asking about cooling tins.  They are crucial for anything bigger than a 1776 engine.  I have a pair of CMC engine heat shield templates that I can send along to save you some development time - all they cost is $5 postage.

Steering box is adjustable but close quarters.  Search on here for what others have done.  You can easily make one adjustment wrench from some 3/4” flat stock and the big locknut can be loosened/tightened with a plumber’s drain wrench from Home Depot.  Shift linkage can be made really tight with a new coupler (about $20), a new shaft bushing ($5) and maybe a new shift lever ($50 - $200, you choose).  Then it will shift like a new BMW.  

If you think that the grab handle is for looks only, please, NEVER use the windshield as a handle to get in or out of the car.  Back up the grab handle screws with suitable fender washers to give it a semblance of strength.

Whaddya fly?  My last job I had a couple of Hawker 800s and a Gulfstram 5 that we kept busy.  Kind of like flying Limos.   

Almost forgot.  Here's my CMC:

That gold plate is the CMC supplied data plate.  Mine has #S2244 and kit was bought 11/88. All their records went into a dumpster in FL in'92 time frame.  I suspect PO # numbers were issued sequentially so yours is maybe a 87 or '86 kit?  Most home builders didn't bother mounting them for some reason. Can't tell if they are OEM 914 Fuchs (they would have a "914.xxx" stamped number on the back), or American Eagle or Empi replicas.  My guess is replicas since there appears to be a lot of space in rear wheel well (not so with the OEM 914 wheels). The gauges are the $325 (ha) optional CMC Vintage gauges made by Johnson Controls.  I think Gordon said in another thread that 356 front turn lens will fit the chrome rings you have. 

I replaced the old GE sealed headlights with Hella H4 7" round conversion non-sealed replaceable bulb headlights --- $80 or so for pair.

Ah - VW lady bug floor mats!

Greg:  Because of the "new" Massachusetts revised registration laws, I have actually dug out my CMC body plate and attached it to the driver's door jamb AND found my Certificate of Origin and "Paid" invoice.  All this, just so the silly Mass. RMV will continue to let me drive around in my old-looking car.  

Spent two HOURS sitting in the RMV today, waiting to spend 4 minutes with a clerk to get half-way to getting a new VIN assigned.  The first thing she said was, "Gee.....I've never done one of these before!" (Duh...) and it went on from there.  Fortunately, I have a well-written procedure for her to follow (she actually took the time to read it right there and was pretty nice about it) and after she checked with no less than three supervisors (all of whom said, "Yup, That's what'cha gotta do!") she entered the info in her system, printed me two copies of my receipt and told me to contact the State Police to get it inspected.  I may have a new VIN by the end of this week!

I have some background info showing the original, Red VW Sedan donor car and another photo of the finished Speedster.  Her first comment was "WOW!  Can you build one of those for ME?!?!?!"

Nice score on that Speedster, Duncan! @Tubdriver 

Tweeking the car to your own flavor is the fun part. This site is the best resource for any info or technical assistance pertaining to replica Speedster. Like any other on-line forum, you just have to wade through all the topics & comments not relevant to your particular query.

So, that said..."Welcome To The Madness" known as replica Speedster ownership! 

Here's link to coco mats (they have others like sea grass too).  They actually list CMC Speedster replica as a manf (I can't see how they'd be different than a '70 VW bug though). These have rubber on back - I have cheaper ones (JC Whitney) with NO backing that let sand thru - which is ok but you have to vacuum it up.

https://www.cocomats.com/ordercoco/

CMC listed because to many people order 356 Porsche and end up returning them would be my guess.