Exhaust 1 1/4 to 1 1/2?

You're right, it looks like something was there before. Is the hole threaded? I don't see any reason someone couldn't weld a patch over it. You'll lose some low end/midrange torque with a 1 1/2" exhaust; if you replace what you have, a 1 3/8" header will run best on your 1600. 

Has car been running - doesn't look like exhaust leaks out there (does it?).  Easily welded with patch.

I don't see any threads, but looks drilled (perfect circle). The speedster came with this CIP1 1 1/4 now, so a 1 3/8 would run best with a single 1600? I'd like a it to run a little better and my help my carb issue. Wonder if the tri-mill runs a 1 3/8" size?

Didn't think of that. Great quick fix idea. I have zero welding tools or skills. Is loctite temp resistant?

Some loctites are temp resistant, but I know you use heat to loosen most of them up to remove whatever (nut, bearing, etc), so maybe some aluminall type epoxy might be better?

And yes, 1 3/8" is right for your engine/rpm range. As I said earlier, 1 1/2" would be too big; it will run (and seem to run great, especially in the upper end rpm's) but won't make as much torque down low. You may not even notice it, but mileage will go down a bit. Remember, the bottom end/midrange part of the powerband is where we do most of our driving.

ALB. Thanks. Still learning about these VW engines and what works with what. I'd rather keep my low and mid range then top. I'll try Ted's idea to patch with a bolt, but with some thermal epoxy I'll try to find. If it holds before a new engine then I'll wait on a new exhaust replacement. If I do get a new exhaust for this engine then I'll assume that the 1 3/8 will bolt up (with new flange) as the current 1 1/4 I have without modification. Thanks again for the recommendation.

I think JB Weld might be heat resistant enough.

Here you go:

Loctite® 2422™ High Temperature, Medium Strength Blue Threadlocker

• Locks and seals threaded fasteners in applications that require continuous temperature resistance of up to 650°F
• Paste formula comes in a convenient syringe for easy dispensing

I can't see how Loctite would keep a bolt in a hole without threads.

I'd take it to my local muffler shop and have them weld it closed.

Good point. At best it would have 'one' thread.

I guess if you're going to fix it - Fix it once and fix it right.

Damn you, Ron! 

Scott- FYI- With a bigger engine (2 liters +) you don't have to worry about the bottom end/midrange nearly as much, as the bigger engines have more inherent torque (just because of their size), and can be built for higher revs/power (if that's your intent and budget!). With the smaller engines you have to watch that you don't end up with a mismatched "combo" (there's that word again!), as it's easier to destroy the "driveability" (is that even a word?).

And Ron's right; if there's nothing to thread to, loctite's not going to help. My thought was more along the lines of if you could find a bolt that touched the sides of the muffler case, the epoxy might hold it in place. A trip to the muffler shop would be the best fix. That way you could save buying a new exhaust for when you upgrade to more power!

Since we're talkin exhaust sizes, this chart is compliments of Jim Beahm and Hot VW's-

Awesome chart thanks Al. 

Whoa!  

I'm getting a set of 2" headers for Pearl so I can shift at 10,500 rpm like those Rolex cars!

Of course, I would probably need help pushing it out of the pits for lack of low-end oomph....

Awesome chart, Al....

Scott - try one of those toggle bolts that you use to attach stuff to your wall (drywall).

Get a fender washer that covers the hole, bend it a bit to match the muffler contour, remove the phillips screw from the toggle (spring loaded) and replace with similar size bolt, place the washer between the toggle and bolt head.

Insert toggle into muffler (as you would insert into your wall), when inserted toggle flips open inside muffler, position toggle it so that it is horizontal so that will will sit flush against the inside of the muffler, tighten bolt!   

That's brilliant! So you're not just another pretty face...

THAT is an amazingly cool tip.

Just imagine the stuff he used to do in SEA when he was a Medic.........

That Jim, he's one fart smeller...er... Smart Feller. 

I'd call that a 'pro tip'. 

Ted

good suggestion but you can an electrical box plug that size and do the same thing.

i noticed in your pictures that the motor is missing the lower tins. these tins attach the heater box lower tabs to the case. Otherwise the heater box will vibrate and rock on the exhaust tube which can be annoying.

Good eye, Anthony; I missed that.

Yep. There were missing when I bought the car. Planned on getting them. They are just the 2 flat plates right? Not the full "l" shaped ones I seen on some part site that connect together?

Thanks guys for the DIY ideas. I think now I'll just take off the exhaust and bring it to a muffler shop to plug and hold with a weld.

There ya go. 

If it was me, I'd get an O2 sensor bung welded in there, they come with a threaded plug. This allows you to put a sensor in, check your mixture at different rpms and loads for jetting. Then when you're done, put the plug in and forget about it.

Bung and plug is like $10 or so at Jeg's.

Good suggestion, I have them in stock if you need one. most muffler shops have them also.

Hello,

what type of exhaust is this? i,m looking for a good sound exhaust for my 356 replica, any recommendations?

thank you.