Exhaust choice

Does anyone know whether this will fit on a CMC?

www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13-3417&Click=18774

I like the look of the dual exhausts, however it does state that it will not fit with a filter pump fitting (which I have). Can anyone suggest a similar exhaust that will fit with a filter pump?

Cheers,

Jim.

Hello Jim, I found a local muffler shop in my area that made me up a system with dual glasspacks and chrome tips. They sit up very tight and sound exceptional. The cost was minimal $225.00. Look around your area for a muffler guy and come up with a idea, I'm sure they'll be able to set you up to fit your configuration.

Gabe

Jim; that system won't fit a CMC but will fit a VS (I have it in mine). We checked to see if it would fit JJr's CMC and the rear apron (or skirt) is lower on CMC's so that the system you talk about as well as the very authentic looking Tri-Mil don't fit unless you cut into the body to provide clearance for the tailpipes. The Monza 4-tip system fits but doesn't look too authentic; maybe you could retrofit it by having a muffler shop remove the 4 tips and install just two in their place; then put some chrome dress-up sleeves that you can pick up at any Pep Boys, etc. Another system that would work (you'll have to check it out with the car though, because they vary) is a dual or single quiet pack system.

Ricardo,

Is this the Tri-Mil you are referring to?

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7972538507&category=33636

Jim.

Jim; this is very similar if not the same; but I've heard that Kirk at VS gets them tweaked for his cars. All I know is that it might fit a VS but not a CMC. It helps if you have the muffler at hand to sort of present it to the car to make sure it fits before buying.

Check these ones; they would probably work for your application:

www.800luvbugg.com/shop?frame=2.4828

www.800luvbugg.com/shop?frame=2.4829

The basis for my system was a THing header from www.ssheaders.com.

one more

Oops. Forgot. Without the ceramic coating the kit was about $350 plus for the tips and installation at a fab shop another $200.

To Jim & Ralph:

If I were you, I'd consider a full flow system next time you pull your motor.
I've heard nothing but negative comments regarding the filter pump set-ups.

I've heard the same thing as Dave....

What's the difference between a full flow and a pump system?

Idiot in OKC

Justin (and others!)

When the oil filter is made an integral part of the oil pump cover, (and the pump remains otherwise unchanged) the manufacturers of the filter/cover tell you that the oil is sucked into the pump, and the pressurized oil from the pump first goes through the cover, through the filter and then back into the pump on the output side to continue into the engine.

However, since the original pump outlet port is still functional, only a percentage of the pump output actually goes to/through the filter. Then, as the filter gets full of dirt and the pressure through the filter increases, more of the pump output bypasses the filter and takes the path of least resistance - directly out of the original pump outlet, back into the engine, contamination and all...

A proper "Full Flow" system has the oil pump outlet blocked off with a steel plug, threaded into the outlet port, to stop any flow in that direction. Then, a different cover is used that has only an output port on it with a hose fitting attached. The oil pump inlet port remains unchanged. The oil filter is mounted to the car's frame off to the side (or rear) of the engine, and 1/2" hoses are run to and from the filter. The pump outlet (cover) hose goes to the filter "in" side, and the filter output goes through another hose to a fitting on the rear of the engine. This fitting does not exist on "stock" engines (there is a plug where the inlet would be), and must be drilled and tapped for a 1/2" hose fitting. This is best done when the case halves are apart, but it CAN be done on an assembled engine, still in the car (I've done this). Once installed, this fitting sits at the rear of the main oil line running through the engine, just about where it would have gotten oil from the original pump set up.

Now, since ALL of the pump's output MUST go through the cover and out to the filter, it is called a "Full Flow" system. Unfortunately, because of the engine/pump design, this pump output is full pressure, as the oil reaches the oil pressure regulator only after going through the filter and back into the engine, where it then gets regulated to protect the engine and stock cooler. This means that a special, high pressure filter must be used (FRAM HP-1 or WIX racing filter or K&N High Pressure - all readily available) and if an external oil cooler is used it must be able to tolerate about 300 lbs pressure (most of the popular ones, like DeRale, do). Alternatively, you can use a Gene Berg, Pressure Regulated, Full Flow output cover to hold the filter/cooler pressure to 125 lbs. and protect everything.

That's it in a bit nutshell. Hope this helps...you can also do a search on this forum for "oil Cooler" and see the write-up I did last Summer for a little more detail. I can email over some pictures of the drilling/tapping of the inlet fitting if you wish, just ask.

GN

Well put Gordon,

In addition to what GN said, look at the picture of Ralph's filter - stuck right between the cylinder and the exhaust - there's a lot of heat there.

Let me tell you though, that procedure with the engine on as done and illustrated by Gord, is not for the faint of heart....I've been debating on whether to do this now or just wait until the engine needs a rebuild and it's torn apart to get that work done at a machine shop.

I could be enticed to vist Puerto Rico for a "site visit" if you need some experienced technical help......but not until after the nice Rhode Island Summer (If it EVER gets here!!! It was a lot warmer in Beaufort last Winter than in RI right now!!)

gn

Gord; you're definitely welcome anytime!! Just give us a holler here and we'll set you up!!

GOrd:
Thanks for the heads up--I think--but while I hate to betray my age, when I started fooling with cars they did not have filters. Oil in my VW was changed every 1500 miles. Later my V8s I let go for 2k. I expect that if I keep to the old regime, I will avoid problems. Since this motor was just built I have no plans to split the case. If it does go south I expect to tackle that Subie project a little sooner. Right now I am just waiting for the ^%$&^% weather to get decent. I have missed two PCA tours cause of rain and am lookiing forward to getting on a plane to Calif just to get out of this Oregon drab drizzle.
If there is anyone lurking from SF or SJ in Cali I would lilke to get together to trade war stories. Unfortunately I missed Knotts.