When talking about pipe diameters, does 1 5/8" refer to the ID or the OD?
Thanks
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When talking about pipe diameters, does 1 5/8" refer to the ID or the OD?
Thanks
Thanks
David
I'm fairly certain that a tubing diameter referrs to the ID. This way the diameter does not change with the thickness of the walls.
I have a question for you, actually a number of questions. I noted your exhaust system on one of the other topics of discussion. It looks very good. I contacted your supplier (A1)for a quote. Spoke to "tiger", he is knowledgable.
How does the system sound? I prefer something less than loud.
How was the fit-up?
Is it worth the price, i.e., is the quality good?
What is your overall opinion?
Richard Saccocio
I'm fairly certain that a tubing diameter referrs to the ID. This way the diameter does not change with the thickness of the walls.
I have a question for you, actually a number of questions. I noted your exhaust system on one of the other topics of discussion. It looks very good. I contacted your supplier (A1)for a quote. Spoke to "tiger", he is knowledgable.
How does the system sound? I prefer something less than loud.
How was the fit-up?
Is it worth the price, i.e., is the quality good?
What is your overall opinion?
Richard Saccocio
Tubing is always by the OD and the ID changes depending on the wall thickness, Pipe, as in say water pipe etc is measured by the ID. Water pipe that is 25mm NB or 25mm nominal bore is 25mm ID but again the wall thickmess can change the OD. Exhausts are manufactured in tubing not pipe. Unless it's a bloody big ship!!!
Richard,
At cruising speed it's not too loud, but when you put the pedal to the metal, it's pretty loud.
The fit up was excellent, with the exception of the muffler a little to close to the valve covers - I was concerned about the heat, so I had the muffler repositioned away from the valve covers.
I feel it was worth the price, as I was looking for a system that was not visible from the rear of the car.
The quality of the welds and bends is very good.
Overall, I'm very pleased with it and would order another product from A-1.
Dave
At cruising speed it's not too loud, but when you put the pedal to the metal, it's pretty loud.
The fit up was excellent, with the exception of the muffler a little to close to the valve covers - I was concerned about the heat, so I had the muffler repositioned away from the valve covers.
I feel it was worth the price, as I was looking for a system that was not visible from the rear of the car.
The quality of the welds and bends is very good.
Overall, I'm very pleased with it and would order another product from A-1.
Dave
Ask any plumber . . . when working with PLASTIC pipe, use ID. When working with metal pipe, use OD. No, I'm not a plumber . . .
Joe
Joe
Peter is correct!
Actually Joe, I'm a pipefitter (Dad's a plumber)- pipe sizing for copper is "nominal" when you are a plumber. The 1/2" copper pipe you buy at Home Depot is actually 5/8" o/d, 3/4" nominal is 7/8" o/d, etc. Complicating the issue is the fact that it's the same material- pipefitters use o/d measurements and plumbers use nominal sizing. I have to specify every other day whether pipe and fittings I am ordering are in "fitter" or "plumber" sizing. Don't even get me started on BIP sizing for threaded pipe.
Suffice it to say that exhaust tubing (which is what the question refered to) is an o/d measurement. Try to make sense of copper, threaded, and PVC pipe sizing and you'll get pretty frustrated, pretty quickly.
Suffice it to say that exhaust tubing (which is what the question refered to) is an o/d measurement. Try to make sense of copper, threaded, and PVC pipe sizing and you'll get pretty frustrated, pretty quickly.
Pipe Specifications:
1. All pipe is to be made of a long hole, surrounded by metal or plastic centred around the hole.
2. All pipe is to be hollow throughout the entire length, do not use holes of different length than the pipe.
3. The ID (inside diameter) of all pipe must not exceed the OD (outside diameter) otherwise the hole will be on the outside.
4. All pipe is to be supplied with nothing in the hole, so that water, steam or other stuff can be put inside at a later date.
5. All pipe should be supplied without rust; this can be more readily applied at the job site. Note: Some vendors are now able to supply pre-rusted pipes. If available in your area, this product is a recommended thing, as it will save a great deal of time at the job site.
6. All pipe over 500 ft. (150m) in length should have the words "LONG PIPE" clearly painted on each side at the end, so the contractor will know it is a long pipe.
7. Pipe over 2 miles (3.2 km) in length must also have the words "LONG PIPE" painted in the middle so the contractor will not have to walk the entire length of the pipe to determine whether or not it is a long pipe or a short pipe.
8. All pipe over 6 ft. (1.83m) in diameter must have the words "LARGE PIPE" painted on it, so the contractor will not mistake it for a small pipe.
9. Flanges must be used on all pipe. Flanges must have holes for bolts, quite separate from the big hole in the middle.
10. When ordering 90 degree or 30 degree elbows, be sure to specify left-handed or right-handed, otherwise you will end up going the wrong way.
11. Be sure to specify to your vendor whether you want level, uphill or downhill pipe. If you use downhill pipes for going uphill, the water will flow the wrong way.
12. All couplings should have either right-hand or left-hand threads, but do not mix the threads. Otherwise, as the coupling is being screwed on one pipe, it is being unscrewed from the other.
13. All pipes shorter than 1/8" (3 mm) are very uneconomical in use, requiring many joints. They are generally known as washers.
14. Joints in pipes for piping water must be watertight. Those pipes for compressed air, however, need only be airtight.
15. Lengths of pipes may be welded or soldered together. This method is not recommended for concrete or terra cotta pipes, however.
16. Other commodities are often confused with pipes. These include: Conduit, Tube, Tunnel and Drain. Use only genuine pipes.
17. Scottish regiments in the Army use Army Pipes in unusual ways. These are not approved of in engineering circles.
Just trying to be helpful, Ron
1. All pipe is to be made of a long hole, surrounded by metal or plastic centred around the hole.
2. All pipe is to be hollow throughout the entire length, do not use holes of different length than the pipe.
3. The ID (inside diameter) of all pipe must not exceed the OD (outside diameter) otherwise the hole will be on the outside.
4. All pipe is to be supplied with nothing in the hole, so that water, steam or other stuff can be put inside at a later date.
5. All pipe should be supplied without rust; this can be more readily applied at the job site. Note: Some vendors are now able to supply pre-rusted pipes. If available in your area, this product is a recommended thing, as it will save a great deal of time at the job site.
6. All pipe over 500 ft. (150m) in length should have the words "LONG PIPE" clearly painted on each side at the end, so the contractor will know it is a long pipe.
7. Pipe over 2 miles (3.2 km) in length must also have the words "LONG PIPE" painted in the middle so the contractor will not have to walk the entire length of the pipe to determine whether or not it is a long pipe or a short pipe.
8. All pipe over 6 ft. (1.83m) in diameter must have the words "LARGE PIPE" painted on it, so the contractor will not mistake it for a small pipe.
9. Flanges must be used on all pipe. Flanges must have holes for bolts, quite separate from the big hole in the middle.
10. When ordering 90 degree or 30 degree elbows, be sure to specify left-handed or right-handed, otherwise you will end up going the wrong way.
11. Be sure to specify to your vendor whether you want level, uphill or downhill pipe. If you use downhill pipes for going uphill, the water will flow the wrong way.
12. All couplings should have either right-hand or left-hand threads, but do not mix the threads. Otherwise, as the coupling is being screwed on one pipe, it is being unscrewed from the other.
13. All pipes shorter than 1/8" (3 mm) are very uneconomical in use, requiring many joints. They are generally known as washers.
14. Joints in pipes for piping water must be watertight. Those pipes for compressed air, however, need only be airtight.
15. Lengths of pipes may be welded or soldered together. This method is not recommended for concrete or terra cotta pipes, however.
16. Other commodities are often confused with pipes. These include: Conduit, Tube, Tunnel and Drain. Use only genuine pipes.
17. Scottish regiments in the Army use Army Pipes in unusual ways. These are not approved of in engineering circles.
Just trying to be helpful, Ron
Laughed my ass off as I was reading Ron's post, then saw where he's from and all of a sudden lapsed into "the LUMBERJACK song".....Oh, I'm a lumberjack and I'm OK, ...........
So, the length of the pipe doesn't matter, just the diameter...I see.
Ron
Ron
Actually neither is critical, it's how you use it!!!!!!!
God's little joke on man...putting a sewer pipe through a fun park.
Ron
Ron