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Hi All,

 

I have, in my possession, what is in the photo attached.  I have an exhaust header on my car currently but would like to maybe have some heat to elongate the current driving season and maybe begin the 2016 season early. I don't live in Cali. or any place warm in winter.

 

The question:  I have a wide body CMC and want to know if I can use the Tri-Mill and heater boxes in the photo on my car without cutting holes in the rear valance.  Maybe someone out there has this setup and can comment or send along a photo of what it looks like.  I'm not too concerned about the sound, more about a little heat.....

Thanks.

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Last edited by Frank C.
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Originally Posted by Frank C.:

Thanks guys. I guess what I'm not sure of is if there is any differences in basic engine cases or will this stuff just fit with the only concern being the exhaust tip exit.

If you are asking about the exhaust ports in the cylinder heads, yes, the mounting bolts and flange orientation are all the same.

 

One issue might be if your engine was built to a different width than stock (altered stroke, altered rod length), then if it's not too far off, it might need some "persuasion" to mount. A muffler shop would be able to reweld if it's too far off.

 

Another thing might be the sled tins under the engine. The stock ones are normally partially attached to the heater boxes, so if you didn't have any heater boxes before, I'm not sure what tins you might be running or if they will interfere with the heater boxes.

If you have a big engine (>2L?) stock diameter heat exchangers won't let if breath right so less power.  I'd have a couple replacement studs (drill and taps) ready - just in case. I like the copper 8x12mm exhaust nuts --- over stock 13mm steel ones.

 

https://www2.cip1.com/ProductD...Code=VWC-175-129-650

 

 
 
VWC-175-129-650 - 8MM WITH 12MM HEX COPPER EXHAUST NUT - ALL MODELS - SOLD EACH
 
VWC-175-129-650 - 8MM WITH 12MM HEX COPPER EXHAUST NUT - ALL MODELS - SOLD EACH
 
Last edited by WOLFGANG

I have tried this muffler on many applications, not on speedsters , but on Beetles and it is loud and really messes up the tuning of any Beetle engine.  Not a muffler set up I would ever use. I know , from trying, EMPI's part number 3417 welded on muffler to a tuned header will not clear the body of the speedster.   That is from tying to install an engine in the speedster with that cheap costing exhaust.  I am not going to cut the body of my speedster for any exhaust system. 

 

You need special made heater boxes with larger ID tubing for any modified engine. Any size engine, which has a mild cam and bigger valve sizes must use larger ID exhaust tubing, tuned pipes ( equal length) and free flowing large muffler or you are wasting your time and money and cutting down performance of your engine.

 

A1 will not like my comment here, but their muffler set up adds to the oil temperatures on the number one/two side of the engine and also adds heat under the head on that side.  I am not a fan of the placement of the muffler anywhere close to the push rod tubes or cylinder heads.  The rest of their design and quality is excellent, but muffler placement upsets me and my engines. 

 

---George K.---

 

---George K. ---

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