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EXHAUST-S&S/KYMCO hybrid

zumwollzumwoll
It took over two months but the system is in. The indisputable facts are that the difference in performance is just incredible. My IM Silver Streak had a Bugpack header and muffler--1 3/8 inch. It pooped out at about 4k RPM. Low end torque was ok but no neck breaker.
Now with the 1 1/2 inch S&S neck and mufflers mated to the KYMCO header the car jumps out of the hole and rips thru to 5kRPM withoiut hesitation. SInce I only have eight hundred miles on my new 1776 I am not ready to push it further than 5k---but i will. Now my only regret is that I did not have a 2110 built for the extra grand. This car would fly.
NOW FOR THE LESSONS LEARNED---buy all your elements from one manufacturer. My mating required an adapter to be fabbed.
Try to get a system made for your 356. It took a really skilled fab shop six hours to fab the adapter, cut the Jpipes off the mufflers, attach the tips and cut the holes into the body.
Unless you are sure the exhaust will bolt directly to your motor and mount nicley to your car, order the parts un-coated. Have them installed and then when you are certain it is "all good" as the kids like to say, remove the whole damn thing and have it coated.
Total cost was
Kymco header and jpipes $285
S&S neck and muffler cases $260
Magnaflow tips $40
Fab shop labor $250
I was warned by Eddie to expect to spend a grand. I think at $835 I did well however you can see that not my entire system is ceramic---only what can be seen from behind..

Zumwoll

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zumwollzumwoll
It took over two months but the system is in. The indisputable facts are that the difference in performance is just incredible. My IM Silver Streak had a Bugpack header and muffler--1 3/8 inch. It pooped out at about 4k RPM. Low end torque was ok but no neck breaker.
Now with the 1 1/2 inch S&S neck and mufflers mated to the KYMCO header the car jumps out of the hole and rips thru to 5kRPM withoiut hesitation. SInce I only have eight hundred miles on my new 1776 I am not ready to push it further than 5k---but i will. Now my only regret is that I did not have a 2110 built for the extra grand. This car would fly.
NOW FOR THE LESSONS LEARNED---buy all your elements from one manufacturer. My mating required an adapter to be fabbed.
Try to get a system made for your 356. It took a really skilled fab shop six hours to fab the adapter, cut the Jpipes off the mufflers, attach the tips and cut the holes into the body.
Unless you are sure the exhaust will bolt directly to your motor and mount nicley to your car, order the parts un-coated. Have them installed and then when you are certain it is "all good" as the kids like to say, remove the whole damn thing and have it coated.
Total cost was
Kymco header and jpipes $285
S&S neck and muffler cases $260
Magnaflow tips $40
Fab shop labor $250
I was warned by Eddie to expect to spend a grand. I think at $835 I did well however you can see that not my entire system is ceramic---only what can be seen from behind..

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WideRidezzzWideRidezzz
Amazing what a little exhaust magic does for these cars, eh?!?! The duals look good. I spent a few days driving around to shops with my bookmarks in place, showing guys pictures of what I wanted and they all just grunted, rubbed their furry-knuckled hand through their matted welding-hat hair and sort of shook their heads, withdrawing to their respective lifts and caves. Seemed they liked playing with fire but...
FM Former Member
Talkin' about exhaust systems, what's the deal with the performance/racing version of the stock heater boxes? I know that Bugpack stocks them. Are they any good? I've noticed that the part that gets attached to the muffler with the clamps on the stock ones comes with flanges (such as used on the heads). How are you supposed to hook those up to the muffler?
zumwollzumwoll
Eddie, Paul, Ward"
Thanks for the good words. I feel the exhaust looks good. NOt "authentic" but I am not trying to fool anyone. When I went to the first PCA meet of the year, there were people all over the car. The local Porsceh expert shop wanted me to take it to his shop right then so he couldl get it in the air. His words were something to the effect of "wow! A Speedster you can drive!". He knows that anything that looks that good is not going to be fighting traffic on a wet day, and be a $100k car.
Paul, you are in the Bay Area. Yoiu can get anything done. Maybe you have to drive to San Jose but next to So Cal you are in car heaven!
bim55_01747bim55_01747
Ricardo,

You have to add flanges to your muffler, it is supposed to be better than the little donuts standard on a VW exhaust that are prone to leak over time.

Regarding the race or big heater boxes, some use larger diameter pipes, and some have no aluminum heat exchangers inside the tins, so they vary quite a bit. The ones with no aluminum sinks make only marginal heat, and that is not good in cold climates.

Boston Bob.
zumwollzumwoll
Hey Ricardo---what do you care about heater boxes? I live in the Northwest and just sold the old boxes on Ebay and for the money got two nice ceramic Jtubes, Last time I flew to SJ in PR it was in the Carribean, Did they tow it north next to Newfoundland? :-)
I do have some heat from little electric heater which works fine when the top is up. Top down----well f'get 'boutit.
FM Former Member
Well, Bob & Ralph, actually the island hasn't moved yet.....imagine that....Newfoundland!!...anyway I was asking because I would like to keep the heater boxes (you'd be surprised but I've used the heater sometimes; like on some nights this past February; it got quite chilly, of course not as in Iowa, for example, but still cool...) because I'd also like to keep the air deflecting tin at the bottom of the engine and, as you know, it attaches to the block and the heater boxes. Probably less restrictive heater boxes are a good idea for my humble 1776. The thing is, I guess some of the exhaust systems (I have the VW of Mexico unit, also sold by EMPI, that looks close to an original 356 exhaust system and intend on installing the Tri-Mil as supplied by VS) need to be modified by adding the flanges; I imagine that can be done at any local muffler place. You guys are right; I already have a leak on the left one because of the little donut with the clamp thing.
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