external oil cooler pro's or con's???

I'm running a 1915 in my speedy I'm thinking of installing a external oil cooler w/ fan what do you think?? also are those oil temp dip sticks reliable?? Cabanaboy OUT!!

When I switched from a 2110 to a CB Performance 2332 alum block we added the external cooler.Henry from Intermeccanica did all the wrenching -- great work!

Made a big difference temp wise. No matter how long or hard I run it I don't worry about the temp compared to when I ran the 2110 without the cooler.


Dean

The only potential downsides I can think of to fitting an external cooler are:

The potential for leaks/damage - this can be avoided by careful fitting
Longer engine warm-up times - this can be avoided by fitting a thermostat which bypasses the cooler until the oil is warm.

On the whole, I would say fitting an external cooler is a positive step for most performance VW engines. Oh, and make sure you don't fit it on the back of the fan shroud!

Oil temperature dip sticks are reliable, and are often thought of as better than sump plug senders as they measure the temperature of the oil in a 'better' place.

Hi desi
I just went through the same ordeal.. (See my link in vendor specific for plenty of details)
I installed an oil cooler just left of the transaxle under my VS. My 1915 is running just fine now, even when it's 103 degrees like it was the other day. Seems that most of the hot rod VW guys around here (Sacramento area) have an added oil cooler of some sort.
Of course, there are those that argue that an oil cooler is not needed if only you build your motor correctly.... Well that may be true, but in the mean time, I want to drive my car: not rebuild it! This is my 2nd time around with this issue and once again, the oil cooler is the ticket.

If it's not absolutely necessary I wouldn't do it. As previous posters have said it adds to the potential for leaks and things to break. Just install the dipstick thermometer and be done with it. Check out this link:

http://www.geneberg.com/cat.php?cPath=5_118_2734

I 2nd Ricardo on the GB227 oil temp sensing dipstick!

My opinion: If you need it, do it(properly). If not, why try and fix whats not broken?

Just today, after researching for a couple of weeks, I came across the product that I knew must be out there somewhere. My concern was that too much oil cooler would, in colder weather, not allow my motor to reach an efficient operating temp. (a killer for fuel economy & performance).
Well, guess what, good ol' CB Performance has (maybe) theee set-up.
Here's what I ordered a few hours ago:::::
http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=235
I'll keep ya posted!

Good stuff, Ernie. Are you going to put that in line on the block end, or at the tank outlet? When you get it, can you post a photo of the install?

very nice. swap the barbed hose fittings over to threaded fittings. stop by a hydraulic hose
shop and they will make you up high psi hoses with the appropriate fittings, length,
pretty reasonably.

Here's my cooler installation. I've had it for over a year. it works like a charm. during this years "Run through Hell to the Del" the temp stayed btween 190 and 200 degrees. before the cooler I would have had to stop and let it cool down.

Larry

Just my opinion. If you do install your cooler use fittings and support
the hose within a few inches of attachment to the cooler. Vibration
and movement puts stress's on the cooler attach points.

Hey Larry... Do you run a CB Performance in-line oil thermostat and a thermostatically controlled fan? I'm just wondering how that all works.

Bruce,
There's a lot to be said in favor of high pressure hydraulic fitting or AN fittings. However, the ordinary barbed fittings and "radiator clamps" (like in Larry's pictures) will work fine.
That's what I have and they don't leak. The down-side is they don't come off very easy at all. So if you have to pull a hose, sometimes it is easier to just cut it off and replace the complete hose.

Mark

I use the thermostatic valve, I believe it is 100% open at 180, Cold it it allows 5% to 10% of oil to flow to the cooler. The cooler itself has a thermo switch and turns the fan on at 190. I wired the fan motor diect to the battery through a fuse. This time of year here in Escondido the fan runs for a bit when I return from a drive.

I used the barbed fittings and clamps. Haven't had any significant leaks. The photos are in process shots. I used rubber covered hose clamps to direct and support the hoses and a metal chanel along the drivers side to support and protect the hoses on the run to the front.

The set up seem to be wotking just fine. On the run to Paso, about 4 to five hours, the car never over heated and I was running most of the time in the 70 to 75 MPH range.

I had the cooler on the car over a year and I am driving much more because I not worried about cooking the engine.

Parts list

1 ea Derale 16 pass cooler with thermo swtich controlled electric fan.

1 ea Thermostaic valve, CB performance, Empi etc.

1 hand full Rubber coated hose clamps

1 Hand full zip ties, hold the hose to the channel

1 ea length of channel of chioce, I used a perforated steel angle so I could use my zip ties.

Barbed fitting cam with the valve and the cooler.

25 feet of blue 5/8 id Hose, cut to lenth.

Dont forget to plumb in your oil filter.


Good Luck

Larry

Thanks Larry
I live in the Sacramento Valley where a cool summer day is in the mid 90's. I know exactly what you mean about "driving much more because I'm not worried about cooking the engine". Since installing my cooler I feel like I have a different car! More enjoyable motoring for sure!

Mark, I'm not suggesting using a 10 lb mallet where a ball peen will
do. But the cooler pictured is mounted in the front exposed to road debris(that could tug a line off). The price to do it properly is not much more than using clamps. I skimp on plenty but in this area
it doesn't make sense to(for me anyway).

In fact, I'd stop by my local junk yard and pull the nice little oil
cooler thats mounted in the front fender of their turbo cars. RX7's
also. What's nice about these coolers is they are short wide coolers
that can be mounted upright in the air flow.

Went down to vw parts and talked to counter guy, his advise was run the cooler w/fan, wire fan to toggle on/off and watch your temp gauge when it hits 180 turn it on ( his reason is if the oil therostat stops working you may not find out until it's too late) after you stop let the fan run for a bit. anyway thats the way i'm going to set up make safe sense to me. Cabanaboy OUT!!

Not sure why the fan needs to run after the engine is shut off. Continuing to run will cool the oil but only in the cooler. Won't do anything to the oil in the case as it's not circulating. Given my advance state of geezerdome, I'd forget to shut the fan off and then I'd get to practice my tried and true one people push start routine.

desi
I suggest that you take Ricardo's advice on the GB 227 temp sensing dipstick. For less than $30 including shipping, you'll have a simple, positive warning light system. (I don't totally trust temp gauges).
Some people don't care for Gene Berg because of their superiority attitude and/or their high prices, but I think most will agree on the high quality of their products.
Ernie

And not only that Ernie...no one questions Gene Berg's credibility or the quality of his products in the air cooled VW industry; and that's worldwide. Also; as a bonus, you can't argue with the quality of the candy they always include with the orders.