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I am going to remove my engine and replace the front crankshaft oil seal due to leaks. What should I do while I have the engine out? I am thinking about installing an external oil filter. Any suggestions on what kind? Or, what else I should do while the engine is out?

2006 VS (Sold)

2004 Beck (Sold)

1975 914-4

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Warren, I forget what engine you are running, but assume you have an external cooler. If you are tapped for full flow, you can plumb a filter into that system. Also CB Performance makes a spin on filter system that goes on the oil pump. On some motors there is a clearance issue with exhaust with the oil pump cover style filter.. The best way is in line with the external cooler I believe.
Bruce - It's the one at the flywheel end of the engine. I don't think the stock oil cooler is leaking as the oil is leaking from the flywheel end and center of the engine. From what I have read, if it leaks on the drivers side, it may be the cooler gasket.

Will - I have no external oil cooler or filter. I don't think I want to drill and tap the block without splitting the case, so I may just wait until I have to do that. I don't have a heating problem, I just thought I would take advantage of the engine being out.

Jack - I have thought about the Thin Line sump, but my car is sitting pretty low. Eddie Janis had one on his, and he hit something in the road and it broke, so I am a little leary of going that route.

Warren---you have a valid concern. Our member from Puerto Rico posted some pix here of when he ran into something with his and tore it all up.

I am always aware of my thin line sump and take care to not smash it.

I do sometimes see tail pipes and mufflers here that are even lower than the sump.

I weighed it out:

A. 212 degrees going down the road without the sump.
B. 105 degrees going down the road with the sump---and being careful.

I choose A and it's worked out for over 4,000 miles.

Your mileage may vary.----Jack
So, this morning I went out to the garage to start dropping the engine. I thought, maybe I should run it around a little to warm up the oil. As I am driving, I'm thinking this engine has around 5000 miles on it. What could have blown that seal? Did I put too much oil in it. Maybe. Anyway, I decided to go down to my local VW shop and have the guy listen to the engine. It hasn't really sounded right for awhile. I just thought it was noisey valves. He said that it could be the flywheel coming loose. Well that would sure do a job on the seal. So, after working on it all day, I got the engine out, the clutch off, but I couldn't undo the flywheel gland nut without buying some angle iron and pipe for leverage. I got the engine into the back of my jeep and will take it down to the shop tomorrow. I will let you know the outcome. I guess I should have labeled this post "Noisey Engine" or something. The oil filter is just a side note.
Warren:

While it could be a loose flywheel, when one of those puppies get loose it rattles....a lot....

Valves are more of a ticking noise. The flywheel is a deeper rattle.

However, supposing that it might be caused by a loose flywheel, make sure that, once the flywhel is off and you can see the crankshaft dowel pin holes on the back side, your mechanic checks those holes to be sure they are still round and not egg-shaped. That's the first thing to go when it gets loose - the action of the engine pounds those holes mercilessly and they become loose to the point where no amount of tightening of the gland nut will keep the flywheel quiet. The only proper fix for that is a new flywheel.

Make sure he also checks the corresponding holes in the crankshaft. Often a flywheel will egg, but not the crankshaft.

Good luck!

Gordon
Thanks Gordon. I will check those things.

Terry - I'm so pissed because I had those 44's purring at idle. And, I rejetted the mains and a/c jets. The carbs were working great. I just wonder if I should have them pull the heads just to take a look-see since I've got it apart this much. I guess maybe I will if the flywheels looks good, but something took out the seal. The seal is definitely bad. There was oil all over the inside of the bell housing. Well, we'll see tomorrow or whenever he gets to it.
Well, I am going to get my external oil cooler. It will come with a new block, new rings, new bearings throughout, new rods, and new lifters. The cam, crankshaft, flywheel, clutch, pistons, cylinders are all ok. My mechanic said it looked like a "back-yard" build from the beginning. Lots of corners cut. Well, I guess I am glad it didn't decide to self destruct on some wild run with the boys. Actually, he said the rods and lifters were ok, but with my lead foot, I told him to upgrade those parts. Ain't this fun? Anyone think of anything else? It's just money.
I'm not familiar with your current engine's displacement but if it's not stroked then now is the time. Even if you only add a 74 mm stroke, that's a huge jump from the stock 69mm crank and will add a great deal of torque to your current engine. Also make sure the new engine case has been cut and threaded for "full flow" Also make sure that the engine builder blocks off the pressure hole in the oil pump thus forcing all of the pumped oil through a special oil pump cover. (I've seen many builders go to the trouble of cutting a case for full flow only to forget to add the oil pump plug.
Hey Guys - Thanks for the tips. All I knew about the engine was that 2180 was stamped on the case and it was running Weber 44s. The displacement has now been verified by my mechanic. Also, he found it has a 110 cam, I think that is what he said. Thus, the reason I am spending a couple of upgrade dollars to keep it from self distructing. If it had not been this big, I would have considered building a new engine, but I think when this is done, I will have, hopefully, a fairly reliable ride at a third of the cost of a new one.
Warren:

Looks good.....Nice clean set-up. I have a couple of comments:

1. For an engine that large, is there a powered fan on the back side of the cooler to force air through or are you relying on natural convection?

2. Where the hoses pass through the fiberglass, it would be a good idea to have a rubber grommet between the hose and the fiberglass. The fiberglass will rub on the hoses over time and maybe open a hole. Adding grommets means temporarily removing the hoses, making the holes sightly larger, adding the grommets and then re-running the hoses. A PITA, I know, but the oil in those hoses is like blood to the engine. Lose it and it's dead.

gn
Gordon and Bruce

Very good comments. I did not install a fan because there is very little room. I didn't have cooling problems before, so with the addition of the external cooler and proper tin, which was missing, I should be OK. I know it's hard to see but I have installed grommets where they go throught the fibreglass but I think they are too small. I have taken care to tie up the hoses underneath so they don't rub on anything as well. I thought about putting some 90 ells there but I opted not to because that would involve more clamps.

I didn't get the engine in today. I had to run to the buggy shop or hardware store 3 times to get stuff. I'm lucky, it's only a few minutes away. First thing, I needed an alignment tool for the pressure plate and clutch. Then the crankshaft pulley hit against the new oil pump. Had to get spacers and a longer bolt. Then as I was installing the tin, it wouldn't fit because of the new oil fittngs. Had to go get a 3/8" nipple. Then I noticed that the ell was so close to the pulley that I would never get a belt on it. Had to get a shorter nipple. I should get the engine in tomorrow.

Man, I can't imagine anyone without some wrenching ability doing this stuff. I would think it would almost be a requirement before anyone got in to this hobby. I am not a very fast worker, because I have to read a lot in between events, but think of the hours someone would have to pay someone to do this work.
Warren - be SURE to document all the changes and details you learn specific to YOUR car. And that includes some shop made tools used to help remove the engine and install the engine. Create your own repair manual to supplement the shop manuals. Next time (and there WILL BE a next time) you will have a ready source of info for trouble shooting and/or modifications - or is it just me who forgets how I fixed that last time?
Well, I got the engine ready to install on Saturday. Got it in on Sunday and guess what, it didn't match up to the bell housing. (See picture) It seems the new case had a little more material near the mount. I didn't want to do anything until I talked to the guy that sold it to me, so I cleaned up and watched the Superbowl. Pretty good game, I thought. Anyway, after talking to my guy, he said to grind the aluminum to fit. After grinding and installing several times, I finally got it in. Took all day and I'm exhausted. Can't tell you how many times I have crawled under and out from under that car. It should be running by tomorrow.
Lane - I ground down the bolt a little and the case. I went real easy on the case. That is why I had it in and out several times. And yes, it's hard to get to the top nut but I installed the engine with all the shrouding and fan housing, except for the very rear (back of the car) tin. My arms are like mush this morning.
Got it back together just an hour ago. Took it out for a short neighborhood ride. I can't believe how much quieter and smoother it runs. Can't wait to take it out on the highway tomorrow. No, it doesn't leak anymore and I've got a new oil cooler and filter. Lane, I can't believe Carey did yours at the show. I think I remember you saying he wouldn't do it again. I know why!!!!
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