Fast idle control cable.

The carbs on my Vintage Speedster do not have chokes, so after I start it I will sit there and keep the RPM's at about 1500 or so to warm up the carbs so they run smooth after that. I'd like to just hit the key and then be able to have the RPM stay where I want it while I grab my coat, lunch, other stuff etc.
So... I have decided to install a cable operated fast idle mechanisim. I bought a choke cable conversion kit at the local auto parts store and it came with the cable, clamps, knob, everything I needed. I'm installing the bracket and cable on the extra stud to the right of my emergency brake lever, run the cable thru the tunnel back to the engine and I will fab a bracket to fit the throttle lingage and then attach the cable.
Question - has anyone else out there tackeled this problem and how did you do it?
Thanks, Blake. 2010 VS, 1915cc, dual Empis.

Fiat of Italy hooked a cable to the gas pedal on some models.....They used a pawl and ratchet to disengage it when the pedal was depressed.......Early cruise control..... Today, speedy types like Lane A. use a cement block....

A fast idle cable may not keep a cold motor running....when the motor is cold, the throttle must be blipped to give the it an extra squirt of fuel from the carb acelerator pumps.

Let us know how the install goes. I have fuel injection, but still have the same problem as you (fuel injection with no cold idle start...go figure).

I know Stan Galat did a beautiful installation of a "Hillbilly Cruise Control" on his IM.
Perhaps he'll elaborate when he returns from vacation in Puerto Vallarta.

Related site for reference:
http://store.controlcables.com/servlet/Page?file=cat_streetrod.htm

http://www.flanderscables.com/index.html

http://www.cmacable.com/index.php

Alan (drclock) is right. Mine needs "blipping" to fire off the accelerator pump to keep it going for the first couple of blocks. After that it idles ok. Holding the throttle open would lean out the mixture, causing it to die. Fuel doesn't vaporize well at low temps, thus the need to enrich the mixture.

Thanks guys. I've experimented by holding the throttle open at about 1500-1800 with my foot at a constant RPM and my motor with my carbs in my area (close to the Orange County beaches (never very cold) seems to work fine that way.
I will finish up the project this weekend and let you know how it came together. Maybe dumb me can figure out how to attach a couple of pictures.
BTW - This site is great! What a super resource for guys like me who just bought a replica.

Blake: Just an FYI. Usually those cables are a solid wire inside and that may intefere with your throttle action. In the mornings b4 I get ready to go to work (05:00) I blip the throttle several times and then usually it will idle on it's own, just a little lower than normal (normal is 1000rpms). I then let it warm up for about 3-5 min. (a good idea anytime for an aircolled engine) while I get my coat. I also am in So Cal.

Blake - You should give some consideration to joining our SoCal SOC group this weekend for a cruise. Check under the "EVENTS" thread with posts for Cruise to Rock Store (Malibu/Muholland Drive). It would be a great opportunity to meet up with some of the other miscreants, I mean people who make this site/group.

Also, there are quite a few Speedsters/Spyder replicas in OC that meet up at the Cars & Coffee gathering every Saturday in Irvine. Here's a link for C&C...

http://public.fotki.com/wackydave/cruise_nights/2011-cruise-nights/01-01-11-cars--coffee/

Hope to see you at one of our SOC cruises (about once a month).

Blake! From my ancient past Snowmobiling days:

We had a fast-idle throttle on some of our racing sleds way back when. It was an additional throttle lever right beside the "normal" throttle lever on the linkage (we were running 3-4 carbs back then, depending on the engine, and always had a cable from handle bars to linkage). Both levers moved at the same time, but the fast-idle one simply had a hole through it such that the additional throttle cable (from your fast idle lever in the cockpit) went through the hole and the cable had a round solder blob on the carb end. When you moved the lever in the cockpit it pulled the cable and the throttle lever moved. When you gave it gas the normal way, the additional cable just extended through the hole as the lever moved. When you let off the normal gas, it returned to where-ever you had the fast idle set until you turned fast idle off.

Get the picture?

I would suggest a motorcycle brake, throttle or clutch cable, because they use a stranded cable within a teflon sheath so it won't bind up on ya, plus they already have some sort of blob soldered on both ends to terminate it.

gn

Older 911's ('66-69) also had a 'throttle positioner' lever (and cable) that was used for this purpose. It was a lever located on the tunnel next to the driver's seat. Check with Parts Obsolete (Oregon) may have something on hand but may be pricey.

Thanks everyone. Can't make the cruise this weekend but that sounds real cool. Maybe another one later. I'll check the 'Events' section from time to time. I have friends who go to 'Cars and Coffee' so now that I know they have Speedy reps there I'll give it a shot. Thx.
I plan on my throttle fast idle cable to be free sliding when not in use so it will not affect the normal throttle cable movement. Mine will in fact be located right next to the emergency brake lever, so similar to the control on my old 1973 911S.
I have time this weekend so I'm sure I can finish the job and take some pictures. Does the picture post work well on this site?
Blake.

I thought about this probem for non choke carbs I have drawings for choke kits that fit between the air chargers / air filters and the carb tops.

That would be a nice fix. both controlled with one electric choke unit and a vacume pulloff as they warm up.

Someone needs to make a universial kit.

Any thoughts of using a purely electric choke? I had aftermarket electric chokes on every Holly (four barrel) equipped car I ever drove. Just bolt it on and adjust it. Spring loaded to close the throttle plate when the pedal is depressed once. Internal electric heating coil gradually released the choke over time. It was adjustable for time. They were very reliable and accurate once set. Just run a 12 volt wire and your done.

Can something like that be adapted? Oops, I just remembered, they don't make many carbs anymore do they. Maybe nobody sells anything like that anymore?

Solex/Brosol does make a elecric choke,But the carb bells with the choke flaps and linkages and choke mount and a choke pull off with a idle cam have to be made it could be done on Weber's Impi's or any race carberators setup.

Now cars with injection have been known to have a fast idle injector that dies off as the engine warms up but how that is wired in and controled is at best very touchy and has its own problems.

Im still waiting to see if a better CPU will be made that is programable and offers internal idle control from a temp and rpm data. that and being able to controll the power curb and dwell is needed..

Finished my fast idle control cable install over the weekend. Seems to work fine. Just start engine and pull up knob to the rpm you want, go on about your business and then tap the knob down when your ready to go.
Basic - 4 steps: 1. Mount the control knob on the bracket next to the emrgy brake. 2. Run the cable thru the tunnel and into the engine bay. 3. Mount the cable firmly on the engine. 4. Attach a lever bracket to accept the cable end to the hex throttle bar.
Took me about 5 hours as I had to fab all the brackets and clamps I needed, but the end result does what I wanted.
Thanks for the help and advice, Blake.

Don't you love it when your plan works?

The next thing Ya know he'll be adding Rostra electro cruise control.

Hey they do make that !!

I like some of these racing carbs offered, I do wish they'd make a twin choke setup for them. that's overdue