Fiberglass rear flares for stock CMC Speedster

Though it might not be listed on their website, ask Kirk at Vintage Speedsters if they have rear flares. They might have what you're looking for! 

I have four fiberglass flared fender sections take from (I believe) a CMC wide body shell.

 

Don't want to break up the set and really don't see how shipping them would be feasible.

 

Where are you located?

 

"Tommy Boy" thanks for the reply!!!!...I live in San Diego...I agree shipping is a killer for somethings these big and awkward...What is your best price and where are you located?  Gary

I have molds for a rear add on flare that can be grafted onto a stock body.  e-mail me if interested.

If you can find someone local who has the wide body it is very easy to make the moulds. I made a set for a buddy of mine from the door jams back.

Lots of Johnson carnuba paste wax to fill the pin holes we cannot see but all have.

Tape, brushed on resin with just enough hardner, will kick with the heat generated and prewet 2oz cloth followed by more of the same . Small brush to push out air bubbles, do it one more time then 2 layers of light mat again pre wet first, second can be largely dry as it will soak up excess resin again tap cloth / mat to clear air bubbles TRIM around door sills wheel wheels etc. before it gets hard !!!

Isn't it going to look odd with just the back flared?  Unless maybe its blended in like the ultra wide VS rear end and stagger tire sizes are used.

When I made the rear flare molds I went from the rear door body lip including the lower door sill lip under the the tail lamp fwd(gave me some thing to hook onto) to almost the tail lamp and then upwards towards the engine opening and finally the tire rim inside lip.Use a few paint stir sticks to pop the mold from the waxed car,start at the top of the mold. Sand the edges of the mold where you could not use the knife to trim.

Add more mat to the outside of the mold around the lips as this where you will need the extra strength. I was thinking about doing it when on the car but decided a little bit of flex there would might be good as it is a difficult area to pop.With your new mold again wax and polish a couple of times. As you build your new fender add at least 4 layers of extra mat * 5" deep around edges then trim the whole mold quickly. Sand down from the inside of the new fender about 4" to help sit smoothly against existing body.

Most of these cars are built using "chopper guns" cheap and fast but little control over thickness ( take a look inside fender well ).

Used a polyprop. foam to make a spacer between new inside and old outside to allow a "z" config. when glassing together. Sand well (80 against chopper and 180 against new, polyester as it cures gives off a wax "like" surface.

Fairing still req. but if well sanded both inside and out can be reasonably good.

Do not bother trying to color match, impossible (20 shades of white). go for the paint job.

Allot of work, worth driving to buy any existing molds !!

 

It is a different look when finished but so is my raked windshield.
Used 205* 16 * 50 with spacers in back and same setup on the front without
the spacers. Part of the fun in owning a kit that allows for different
mod's. I like lifting the front as I slam into second. Not to be done in
town otherwise every officer in town on the look out !