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Just testing my replica mid-build and the clutch pedal seems to have to be pressed all the way to the floor before releasing fully. The pedal travel seems an awful lot further then the lever travel at the back. Has anyone fitted a replacement and better pedaL assembly?


Or is there an adjustment apart the obvious one, at the rear lever?

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If you go with a longer throw-out arm, you may have to change the angle of the bracket holding the rear of the Bowden tube, which is a big rubber-looking tube between the car chassis going up towards the throw-out arm and stopping about 6” away.

When the cable exits that tube it should be approximately in the middle of the tube opening and in a straight line to the throw-out lever.   This will make more sense when you get in there and see it.  If it’s too high in the tube opening it will eventually wear a slot in the tube end.

@barncobob posted:

i had that problem 1x.The clutch arm coming out of tranny got metal fatigue and was bent towards front of car..no adjustment would have fixed it..

Did it bend down near the attachment point for the shaft, near where the wing nut sits or???  Was it a heavy duty pressure plate of some sort?  How strong were the springs in the clutch?  Was the cable properly adjusted with only ½" or so play at the pedal?  Was the pedal travelling too far so it was putting too much strain on the arm?

The reason I'm asking these questions- I don't think I've ever heard of anyone bending a clutch arm before.  It's thought that the thing is substantially heavier than it needs to be.

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