Fitting a Front Sway Bar on a VS

I have read numerous posts regarding the benefits of using a front sway bar. I have seen Ricardo's clever modification of his bumper brackets in order to fit 3/4" bar in his VS. I also understand that many have installed stock bars upside down without interference with the bumper brackets. Since it hasn't been mentioned, I assumed the aftermarket 3/4" bars cannot be installed upside down without interference with the bumper brackets. Is this true? If so, is it simply because of the slightly larger diameter of the bars or is it their design. Thanks.

Brad, I have

Thanks for the response, Dave. I don't think my car is lowered (I never lowered it myself and didn't specify it to be lowered in the build). Are you saying that a 3/4" bar will fit without modification on a non-lowered car? Does it need to be inverted? Is your car lowered? I'd take my car to a local supplier if I could but there aren't many around that I know of. Thanks

Brad - my guess is that you car is lowered using some method -- if the center of the front beam has toothed adjusters in the center - that is the most common way followed by dropped spindles. Take a picture of the center of your front beam and we'll tell you. If it were not lowered it would look awful with lots of air around the tires plus it wouldn't handle very well. See the CMC build manual in the library for one way to lower.

Brad; if I remember correctly all turnkey VS's are lowered via a single adjuster at the center of the top bar of the beam; at least that's how mine was done. If I recall correctly the 3/4" bar that I got from my local VW supplier (either EMPI or Bugpack) was for stock height, not lowered. It's a very easy install if you also get their urethane bushings with stainless steel clamp installation kit. We tried to see if we could install it upside down but in the end decided to modify the bumper brackets; any iron worker can do it for you for a reasonable fee. In fact; if I'm not mistaken you'll be able to just remove the inner brackets without removing the bumper (Kirk uses clear RTV silicone at the rubber gaskets where the brackets protrude from the body) or outer brackets. Obviously, you can't drive it like that but it'll save you the aggravation of having to remove the bumpers from the car.

a few years ago i brought my car in to a friend's shop (bmw mechanic). he agreed to work on my car and i asked if he could install sway bars and a rear camber compensator. no problem...

i read this thread a few weeks ago, but thought nothing of it considering that my car handles fine.

today, i decide to peek my head underneath the front end.

this is what i saw!!!

should i be concerned?

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/aboccia/100_0341.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/aboccia/100_0340.jpg

I don't think you need to be concerned, you have a hefty front anti-sway bar installed. Nice job too!!!!!

The problem with just a front bar is that it can cause under-steer. (front tires can't roll enough so they plow in the middle of a turn)

If you have an adjustable sway bar on the front and rear, you have the ability to adjust until the tire roll creates a neutral turn, in other words, you can go through a turn without the front plowing or the rear trying to slide.

Wow, that's a new approach...he should know if he's a foreign car mechanic but I prefer the way mine is mounted, which is the way it's supposed to.

i think larry has a point. it appears as though i wouldn't get as much plow if my sway bar wasn't attached so close to the spindle/arm.

by having the bar free i don't think the suspension would be as stiff. it should allow more movement and thus possibly less understeer.

any more thoughts on this setup?

Antonio,
You have a great looking mount. The mounts on the part that goes across the car keep it located vertically. It may also add some to the torsional rigidity of the car, but I doubt that it