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I am lowering an IRS beetle chassis for my speedster widebody, i dont know the year of the chassis but the number on the frame tunnel is 1162097049, when i dropped the rear the wheels went way out of camber(plumb?) , my kit car dude said to cut and spread the top of the trailing arm, I really didn't like that idea and was told to swap thr arms left to right, flip em and remount the shock mounts. Any thoughts?
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I am lowering an IRS beetle chassis for my speedster widebody, i dont know the year of the chassis but the number on the frame tunnel is 1162097049, when i dropped the rear the wheels went way out of camber(plumb?) , my kit car dude said to cut and spread the top of the trailing arm, I really didn't like that idea and was told to swap thr arms left to right, flip em and remount the shock mounts. Any thoughts?
William,

I lowered my IRS about 1-1/2". Got the car aligned yesterday, I am within 1.5 - 2 degrees negative camber. Perfectly acceptable. I actually wanted to be at 1.5d negative. Positive camber causes the problems. If your wheels are in closer to the body at the top than the bottom I wouldnt think it to critical an issue. I hate to think of cutting and re-welding any suspension components (I do have an adjustable front beam).

Paul
Wolfgang,

I have noticeable tire wear all over, front and back, side to side. Between replacing a spindle roadside and lowering the rear I Def. needed the 4 wheel alignment. I think I need to replace the left spindle now, could not get it within spec on the machine. THats the new spindle... Ill let you know how the tires wear at the end of this summer. I hope to put 20K on this car this year!

Paul
Paul,

Depending on how much you need to get the front within spec, you can always try "super eccentric". They are designed for the lower front ends and give 3 degrees of adjustment instead of 2.

CIP has them http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C12-6612-10

or I can bring a pair to Carlisle as long as I knew by about 10am tomorrow.
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