Flared Fenders

Well, as fate would have it, I installed rear discs to my '82 IM and the tires now rub. I searched the site for mention if a flare kit were available and most of the referrences were years old.. Is there any 'new' news about these? I saw where IM used to make a GS model and really liked the look. Any thoughts? Sources? I ma selecting paint, interior, etc, and now would be a good time to add flares.I'm trying for a daily driver.

Thanks in advance,

GG

how about some CMC flares?

How about fit? Gang?

George,
My guess is no matter what you find there's gonna be some fitment issues. You'll have to do some fab work no doubt. How much is hard to say but at least it's fiberglass and therefore not terribly difficult.
Regardless of how much work I can tell you this - it'll be a lot less work and a lot less money than narrowing the rear with new trailing arms. ;)

George,
How bad is the rub?
Questions to ask yourself:
Do you prefer the looks of the classic or flared model?
If you could, would you want larger wheels/tires than what you have now?
If you do go with flares, wouldn't you want to rework the front fenders as well?
My advice would be to rework your wheels so they have a better offset to fit within the fenders without rubbing. If you really wanted to keep the wider wheels/tires, I would suggest that instead of adding flares, cut the rear fenders at the top, separate and fill so as to increase the width of the fender.
Henry and crew at Intermeccanica have done this with great success. The result is very subtle but quite effective.

very nicely put TerryN -swelling Qtrs much easyer than changing the whole qter / not a job for beginers BUT IF ANY ONE OUT THERE HAS A STANDERED BODY AND WANTS A FLARED BODY IT CAN BE DONE-$$$$ not cheep STEVE

Steve, I replied to your e-mail...I would like to see the CMCs if you gotta pic. Even if you don't have the front.

Thanks,

GG

All:

I like the subtle flare of the IM-GS on the site and would like to get close to that. Kind of a custom/classic look. I did want larger tires later anyway because it is very wet down here and my other Im-D was a little squirrely with less than 1/2 the hp and an automatic...just trying to get 'er done.

Thanks for the replies,

GG

Grimes-See Nuckels' post of yesterday re: your best bet (IM).

I'm exploring all options at this time, so, please keep them comming...Like I said Custom/classic..

Thanks,

GG

OK, gents, I'm a little fuzzy on the cut, separate, and fill, but intrigued. Anyone have a step by step or diagram, pics, etc. I have done minor surgery so I know the cut part :-{ )))))!
I would suppose that one would somehow radius the hole, cut with a fine bladed jig saw, separate the fibres with a scapel (or such), and fill with bondo or such, seal with cloth and resin, sand down, surface, prime, and paint?
Questions: Cut at angle? When one separates the fibres, the curb side will stick out and up, leaving the inner edge lower. How far does one separate into the fibres? Or is this a personal preference, ie) the depth of the separation is directly related to the width and depth of the flare. Bondo or such: I sthere a special bondo or filler to use with fibreglass? I am gonna dechrome some of the side moldings and hood decor.

As usual, Thanks,

GG

Here is a pic of what the fender splice operation looks like on a steel car.

http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/project/23/

Forth column over, forth image down is the money shot. You can see the cut and opened wedge clearly. The second column over, forth image down is the finish shot with all of the work done.


Start at the door locking plate area and mark back through the tail lamp hole. Cut it with a fine blade or wheel. The outer part of the wedge opening is small enough that you shouldn't have any problems at the door jam with cracking and such.

Place a wedge/block at the rear to position the fender as far outboard as needed, then glass in wooden strips to hold the fender in that position from underneath. Back tape the gap with duct tape and glass the opening right up. Once the top is how you like it, get underneath and lay some fiberglass strips under there as well.

Now back up on top, grind and sand and file to shape and brush on a final resin coat to smooth the last of it. Fine sand to perfection, use spot putty ONLY if really necessary. Hit with primer filler, and DONE.

I'd leave it in patch primer, 'cause it cooler that way. Rough 'n Ready ! ! !

If you must, paint it with base clear, color sand and buff, and everything's Archie.

This stuff is as easy as making a sandwich, honestly.


Now . . . if you decide that you want wide body flares, I picked up a set for my SC Coupe, here's a pic.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/?action=view¤t=375622a3.jpg

My buddy made molds of them and could splash a set if needed. If/when you get serious and know for sure, lemme know and I'll hook you up.

Luck,



Forum Prick

OK, I think I've got it...IM returned my e-mail with a solution to my shipping my car to them for a retro. and can have the flares sent to me. I am still under budget, and do like the GS look, so, I have elected to keep my mental energy (what is left) and elect to have their FG gyz build them. you might say that te madness has won, but, thanks for the help.


GG

goerge i have the same flare's as the FORUMPRICK/TEAM EVIL shown in the second atachment on the coupe with the VW BUG WHALE TAIL HANGING OFF THE BACK-STEVE

I have a flared CMC body mould and can easily make flares or quarter panels.

I am in Thailand though and while the flares could easily go by post the quarters would need to be air freighted.
Cheap Thai labour Vs air freight?