Flash Signal Light in VDO gauge

I wonder if I took both sides and used a diode on each side that would only allow current one way then from each I could feed to the same light would that work... what kind of diode is the question. 

I know a diode will prevent back flow of current in the other direction - I slept thru the rest of that lecture years ago so not sure of rating needed. 

"I wonder if I took both sides and used a diode on each side that would only allow current one way then from each I could feed to the same light would that work... what kind of diode is the question. "

The dash lamp draws way less than an amp, so a 1N34 or 1N34A should do.   Bag of four for under $1.50 USD on Amazon.   If you're worried about the power draw, go to a 3-amp like a 1N5404 for almost the same money.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008...=1528328181&sr=1

Be careful to figure out whether you have a dash light that is expecting to see constant +12V with the switched side to ground, or the other way around.  Makes a difference which way you point the diode.

Get yourself a 12 volt 80 to 100 decibel  buzzer and wire that to your flasher .....( if too loud wrap some electrical tape around it) I am installing one on my bike because I leave that signal on all too often.

Maybe a cattle prod under the seat would make me pay attention

What Gordon said but you only need a 1N4001 diode which will carry a 1 amp load. They are cheap. Make sure you order ones with leads and not surface mount. You can hide/protect them in heatshrink after you make your connections. 

Digi-key, Mouser, Parts Express. Have fun.

Hey you guys were not kidding .. real expensive $2 for a bunch

thanks 

Yea, you DON’T want “surface mount” or SMD parts.  Axial lead is the way to go.

The beauty of commercial electronics.

Parts are cheap.

Knowing when/how to use them - THAT’s where it gets expensive!

(Unless you’re Piperato.....He works for Beer!)

You know, Ray.....You can use them for other stuff, later on.  Don’t throw out the extras.

Gordon is right, there are plenty of diode uses. I added a couple to my old 6v headlight switch and 12v dimmer relay to allow flash to pass to work.

I also used a couple diodes to isolate left and right turn signals for the single dash turn indicator. 

I added the module but I am having some intermittent issues with it 

anyone have any idea or how i could make one that is more reliable

essentially it is a powered module that is powered and when you momentarily turn on then off either left or right signal light the  switch is now off but it keeps flashing for 6 times ... while you change lanes 

any ideas?

one wire per side is sent from the module 

"when you momentarily turn on then off either left or right signal light the  switch is now off but it keeps flashing for 6 times ... while you change lanes "

Is that what you want to have happen or is already happening?  

Forgive me.  I'm-a no unnahstan the problem.  

Does it work sometimes (flashes 6 times) and not other times?  If so, it would most likely be an intermittant signal from the left or right side - Does it always work properly on one side but not the other?  (potentially dirty contacts in the directional lever switch).  Or there may be some fuzziness on the power or ground leads (clean/tighten the connections).  Alternatively, you may just not be pushing the directional lever far enough to make contact to trigger the module.  If your directional doesn't have a momentary position before it mechanically latches, you may have to push it all the way and then pop it off for the module to get a signal.  Again, the contacts may be dirty in the switch and you overcome that for regular operation because it eventually makes contact, just not instantly.

Beyond that, are you using LED lights in the directional circuit?  If so, do you have ballast resistors in those circuits (to make the flasher work)?  That might effect the module one way or another.

That's all I've got. 

Gordon, I will run through the contacts again to check for a bad connection... you never know.  Essentially the module does this "when you momentarily turn on then off either left or right signal light the  switch is now off but it keeps flashing for 6 times ... while you change lanes "   

If  I can't fix it I wonder if I can make a better unit is really what I was asking. Thanks

Ok, this is what the module I bought was supposed to do... here is a forum link really explaning what is being done... @DannyP @Gordon Nichols you might find it a nice feature to have.   

Link lane change and flash for 4-6 times  Build it your self

Nice tech sheet.  Got through it without getting a headache.....that's pretty good!  Some tech person can actually write, and it's an open sourced product!

So which version did you build?  P,  PP,  PN   N, NP or NN?

What are the positions of the DIP switches?   You mentioned up above that you expect 6 blinks before cancelling, but it only offers 3, 4 or 5.   So for 5 blinks, DIP switch 1 & 2 should both be "ON".  For the four blinks that would match my Rogue, 1 is "ON" and 2 is "OFF".

Also, their recommended function cancel period of 750 milliseconds seems kind of short for an old guy with a beard (you), so maybe it's cancelling too quickly.  Try 1000 ms with DIP positions 3&4 both "ON" and see if that works better.  I'm assuming that you move the lever to a side and hesitate there too long so it thinks you're making a big turn and cancels the "comfort" function and does nothing when the lever is released.

Also, while I'm thinking of it, flip the DIP switches back and forth 4 or 5 times and then re-set them to  what I mentioned above, just to make sure the contacts are clean (they probably are, but you'll get "DIP Switching Practice").  

And, of course you can make it better.  You can make anything "better".  It's a question of diminishing returns.  Wade in to that "Source Code" and start your "Parameter Tweaking"!!

Actually, the module that I bought is supposed to do exactly what this Do IT Yourself tech sheet says.

 I have not attempted to build a unit yet,  until I flush out all the possibilities with this unit.  I am rewiring it to make sure I have an easy time to check it's performance and honestly with an Ididit column which has a GM signal unit within it which is rather stiff arm it bring it's challenges.  It reminds me of a GM I onced owned.  It had a solid signal light Clik down or Clik Up, but it would not slide down or up so it is rather stiff and you have to use authority to have it change position... This is what IM uses right now. 

The length of the click time may or may not be my issue. 

So I may add a few momentary switches so I can easily touch to do lane changes to test the circuit to see if it is I,  that is unable to activate it properly or the circuit itself that has the issue. 

Thanks for helping along the saga Gordon...  

@Gordon Nichols @DannyP 

FYI, the module maker informed me on the module..

" There is NO capacitor involved in the circuit.  It is looking for a pulse
that reaches a minimum voltage of 11.2 volts for between 1 - 750 mS.  If it
senses a pulse that doesn't meet this criteria, it goes into a reset mode
that lasts around 2.5 seconds.  Also, if the circuit is currently flashing
one side or trying to determine if there is a valid pulse on that side and
it senses something on the other side, it goes into reset mode for 2.5
seconds." 

So some issue that I have found it you absolutely need to have your dash light to see what is happening otherwise if you do not meet the 1-750mS pulse then it won't trigger.   I can have not trigger with the Ididit column due to it's arcane GM signal that is too stiff.  

It would be nice if the module had more flexibility but you get what you pay for... 

Other than that I think the module is worth it. caveats included. 

"Ididit Ray" wrote:

"So I may add a few momentary switches so I can easily touch to do lane changes to test the circuit to see if it is I,  that is unable to activate it properly or the circuit itself that has the issue."

I think that's a great idea.  You may, depending on where you place the momentary switches, learn to like them better than the steering column lever.  Hint:  Cory Drake has his directional switch mounted on the central tunnel right behind the **** lever base and within easy reach.  I liked it.  Reminded me of an old Saab.

Thanks @Gordon Nichols  Here is a trial of a micro switch momentary switch.  It is actually the power button off an Imac that I took off a mac.  I just ran a temp wire to the module and found a 12 volt source.  I kept clicking it and as long as the first 6 flashes finished the circuit worked beautifully.   Even if they may burn out due to the voltage they still are really thin.... As life goes, I had two other dead iMac and I dropped them off at Best Buy last night, as it always happen, I should of taken the switches from those.... so now I am on the hunt for one other switch 

It would be nice to see pictures of other signal light set ups but this lane change feature is kind of cool... just saying. 

I was thinking of the area between the seats as well but I already have two seat heater switches I will keep looking at it as it is a logical place so long as the switch does not go to low to touch the shift rod. 

Update, I have still to hook up the VDO center signal light indicator, but thanks to you guys I did install two diodes to be able to merge the two sides into the center dash light which for now is a simple LED light to test the circuit. 

I was able to confirm that the module does the flash to pass quite well so long as the Pulse is adequate. 

The Issue left is there in little room for me to get my hands in the back without dissasembling everything and taking off the wheel etc etc... So I am pausing on how I will get to that light.