Skip to main content

I have a CMC which, of course, is pan based.

The floor is high at the outer edge where the flange from the subframe laps the raised edge of the pan. The floor also slopes down at the rear.

Should I raise up the floor so it is level with the outer edge and make it flat all the way to the back?

It seems like the seats would fit better in a wider flat area instead of the narrow sloping rear area.

Thanks.

1957 CMC (Speedster) in Ann Arbor, MI

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I have a CMC which, of course, is pan based.

The floor is high at the outer edge where the flange from the subframe laps the raised edge of the pan. The floor also slopes down at the rear.

Should I raise up the floor so it is level with the outer edge and make it flat all the way to the back?

It seems like the seats would fit better in a wider flat area instead of the narrow sloping rear area.

Thanks.
Michael, the pan is shaped that way to accomodate the seat brackets and to make the angle of the stock Bug seat slope slightly down to the rear -- so you get a little support under your thighs. If you make flat pans, you'll have to mock your seat brackets and seats to see how they'll allow you to sit.
I'll predict two things will happen; you'll find that you sit with your head higher than you like, maybe even touching your top when it's up and with the windshield frame directly in your line of sight, and also that your seats will suddenly feel very uncomfortable.
You may also find that you'll have to modify your pedals' faces to a shallower upright angle to avoid knee pain over time while driving.
If height isn't an issue, you might be able to bolster the front edge of the brackets by fabricating another piece to mount them on, with the same angle of incidence as the original dip in the pan.
It'll have to be wedge-shaped, with the small end of the wedge to the rear of the seat.
In my own experience, I used two half-inch nuts under the front of the seats to re-create the angle I had been used to before the modification. It's really, really uncomfortable on long trips.
Ben & Cory, thanks for your reply.

My seats are 17" wide and won't fit within the sloping area. The tracks will fit there. So, I will have to raise the tracks up enough to get the seat bottom up out of the sloping recess.

I was told to space the back of the tracks up 1" and the front up 1 1/2".

I was wondering if this 1/2" slope added to the sloping floor would be too much.

Part of my concern has to do with the carpet in the front laying flat. If I put in some padding or sound deadening it will reduce the step at the outer edge.
i am using wood to make the floor flat so the carpet look better, due to that the carpet has been cut in size for at flat floor.
it is not making my head touching the hood, the wood is only 14 mm thick.
only took like 30 min. to make a cutting matrise in paper, and then use this to markup the wood to cut in the correct size and fit in first try.

as you can of the picture with carpets in, that our fellow speedsterowner Simon Hambly have made, the carpet install looks clean as a whistle

Attachments

Images (2)
  • p
  • simons chesil 005
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×