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Hi, I've spent most of my life drooling over speedster kits and am finally in a position to purchase one after 20 years of waiting. I recently however found one for sale and was both excited and rather disappointed after driving it. I was actually not impressed. I guess after obsessing my whole life about owning one, I was saddened by the reality that it did not really offer the spirited driving experience I'd dreamed of (the fantasy was way better than the reality). That said, I found the car had VAST potential.
My question I suppose is multi-layered; are all the pan based kits (this one was a mystery model) as flexible as the one I drove? or do some of the manufacturers sufficiently stiffen up the chassis to eliminate this problem? I've looked at the JPS sub-frame and it looked like it was engineered out? but? Vintage uses some structure but? or was the car I drove most likely a left over CMC, fiberfab or some other mystery machine? are there noticeable differences in quality? and how would I know?
the body seemed very tight, the doors opened and closed well. the lines were all straight and looked good, just don't have any clue as to whether this car is worth shelling out big bucks for something that in my opinion needs a full roll cage to stiffen it up as well as drastic improvements in suspension and performance upgrades to improve the canyon carving potential that I would want it for..
SO, what do you guys think? save up more money and buy a factory tricked tube frame replica or spend around 18grand for a clean straight, yet disappointingly flexible and unknown mystery speedster?
Am I alone in my complaint, or is this just a case of fantasy vs. reality?
- Tim
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Hi, I've spent most of my life drooling over speedster kits and am finally in a position to purchase one after 20 years of waiting. I recently however found one for sale and was both excited and rather disappointed after driving it. I was actually not impressed. I guess after obsessing my whole life about owning one, I was saddened by the reality that it did not really offer the spirited driving experience I'd dreamed of (the fantasy was way better than the reality). That said, I found the car had VAST potential.
My question I suppose is multi-layered; are all the pan based kits (this one was a mystery model) as flexible as the one I drove? or do some of the manufacturers sufficiently stiffen up the chassis to eliminate this problem? I've looked at the JPS sub-frame and it looked like it was engineered out? but? Vintage uses some structure but? or was the car I drove most likely a left over CMC, fiberfab or some other mystery machine? are there noticeable differences in quality? and how would I know?
the body seemed very tight, the doors opened and closed well. the lines were all straight and looked good, just don't have any clue as to whether this car is worth shelling out big bucks for something that in my opinion needs a full roll cage to stiffen it up as well as drastic improvements in suspension and performance upgrades to improve the canyon carving potential that I would want it for..
SO, what do you guys think? save up more money and buy a factory tricked tube frame replica or spend around 18grand for a clean straight, yet disappointingly flexible and unknown mystery speedster?
Am I alone in my complaint, or is this just a case of fantasy vs. reality?
- Tim
When I was shopping for a Speedster I asked similar questions. Most of the ones I rode in were pan-based and felt admirably solid. I wound up with a Beck, which has a tube frame, making it also very solid. That said, most any open car will have some cowl shake over a bumpy surface. I'd suggest that you check out some others and don't be in a hurry to buy the first one you run across. It's worth the wait to get the one that's right for you. If you can wait until next year I stringly suggest making it to either Carlisle or Knotts Berry Farm so that you can meet directly with some of the vendors. You will also get a chance to study and compaer multiple makes in one setting. Oh, and meet some fun folks while you're at it.
I had planned on my 1st Speedster being a $10K fixer upper. As I looked around, I found that what I saw was not too inspiring. I settled on a '05 VS with only 1200 miles on it for $17K (much more than I wanted to spend). The thing that really hooked me was how solid the car was. Having owned (& of course worked on) several VW's, I sure didn't want another "24-7 project" for a driver.
Now that I have owned the thing for 7 months, I must say that it truly seems to be pretty well built by VS. Thankfully, the guy I got it from did very little actual assembly. On the other hand, re-doing the 1st owner's detail work has given me plenty of time to get to know the beast.... And, I'm sure, there lies ahead plenty of "quality" tinkering time!

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thanks for the responses, I'm pretty sure what I drove was a Vintage kit assembled by an outside firm. I'm also fairly sure I'm being picky about the flex in the body. It was fun to drive, but not up to the quality that I think it should be for 17k. like I said it has potential in spades.
How difficult would it be to add a rollcage or extra chassis stiffening?
Would upgrading the suspension with some coilovers and swaybars make up the difference I'm looking for? or would that just add to the dilemma of chassis flex? I guess I'm asking how much of what I experienced (in your opinion) was suspension vs. body flex?
I haven't entirely discounted this kit, it was nice, I've ridden in worse examples that rattled and shook like 70's campers in a hurricane. this car was not that, It was a good touring car, but if I buy it I would want to create a canyon carver out of it...how far off am I? what would I be up against?
- Tim
Not sure what you drove but my 1990 CMC has a very substantial steel frame beuilt into the fiberglass body. I'd almost say over engineered by mass and size of steel members. It does not rely on the VW frame for its strength. I have seen some bodies on ebay that have no builtin subframe. That said the VW suspension is not that sophisticated -- you want something that drives like on rails try a 914 with sway bars!
You can turn a Speedster into quite a handler. If it's got swing axles you'll need a camber compensator and probably a front sway bar. Drop the ride height until you have a degree or so of negative camber and you'll be surprised how well it sticks. It if's got IRS, front and read sway bars will help. If you really want it to stick, go for a widebody (flared) that'll accept more serious rubber.
I have the Metatlcraft Chassis with a CMC. It is so solid that, for example, when I jack up on one side to remove a tire the entire front comes off the ground. If I jack up anywhere in front of the rear wheels the entire side goes up. The doors and lids all open and shut like it was sitting on the ground. Zero twist. It also has coil-overs and discs at all corners. It handles like a go-kart and stops on a dime. Not much suspension travel and it seems a little light in the front. You REALLY have to know how to drive, because it can get away quick. The suspension pick-up points are all solid sphericals and are easily adjustable for camber, caster and toe.

The Beck sounds like it would be the ticket nowadays. I'm sure they have it pretty well sorted out of the box.

However, like Ernie said, expect to tinker. It took a long time to sort the 1st owner's issues. And it is on-going. But thats the fun of it!!
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