Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

@IaM-Ray posted:

I do find there are a lot of products but some have a need for a lot of elbow grease so if it works well old is best  if you know it.

Yeah. I have an imaginary internet friend on another forum that did his full-size pickup with some newfangled spray-on “ceramic” coating in about an hour. And it looked great. Hand rubbing carnuba every month is so 70’s.  

The Spyder’s paint isn’t all that good. I just use the Glosit Detail spray, or some similar Mother’s stuff I bought to support their commercial-free F1 broadcasts. “Once a year, whether it needs it or not.”  (I didn’t wash it once last summer. Same with the 968, but the 968 has a full Glosit paint correction and treatment. It just gets dusted and detail sprayed. It lives in a garage under a cover)

Brings back memories of “Blue Coral” back in the 1960’s.

The package told you to do small areas at a time.  I did that for the polishing stuff and it took forever and an hour.  I thought that was so 1920’s so I applied the sealant to the entire car all at once.  

By the time I got to rubbing out the sealant, the stuff had dried so hard and fast that no amount of rubbing was gonna remove it.  I was afraid to try chemicals to remove it for fear of taking the paint off, too.  
Finally and in desperation, I tried a little gasoline on a rag and Sonofagun, it cut it.  I ended up using gas all over the car in small areas at a time to get that stuff off, then I had to start all over again with the polishing compound and then the sealant but this time I did areas like two square feet at a time.  All together, the whole process took forever and three days.

Live and learn.  Maybe I should try some-a that fancy Ceramic Coating stuff……

JNC’s black speedster is a testament to what a paint correction and ceramic coating will do for a guy. But my buddy’s spray on job was as good as any hand wash/wax I’ve seen.
Another thing about the fancy detail shop job: durability. I’ve had my 968 done twice. It was pre:”Ceramic” but I suspect the process/material is just the same. The first job lasted 7 years, including two NY winters outside under a cover.  The second time they told me it really didn’t need another color correction and just reapplied the coating after a wash and clay bar. That was in 2017 when I had my suspension done, and water still beads up on it like it was waxed yesterday.

Before I had it done the first time:



After I had it done the second:


When I washed it before I put it away in 2021:

https://youtube.com/shorts/ERWukaewsms?feature=share

I think I’m going to have to break down and wash it this year.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • mceclip0
  • mceclip1
Last edited by dlearl476

@dlearl476 you are correct sir!...some do not realize you only get what you start with...a sub-par finish will remain a sub-par finish until paint correction is done....my car will never get dirty enough to wash with a bucket of soap again...all needed is a good ceramic detail spray and decent micro clothes....just took my time and this was the result from a few days ago.....IMG_20230421_132414_966IMG_20230421_132415_144IMG_20230421_132415_231IMG_20230421_132415_259

Attachments

Images (4)
  • IMG_20230421_132414_966
  • IMG_20230421_132415_144
  • IMG_20230421_132415_231
  • IMG_20230421_132415_259
@WOLFGANG posted:

I remember using Blue Coral on my 1969 red MGC around 1971.  The red paint would quickly get pinkish.  The Blue Coral did bring the red back.  Did manage to be seen a couple too many times by NJ police - not sure if the bright red paint or the Paco exhaust attracted them?

When I owned my Riviera, I lucked out and took it to the local oil change place and happened to meet a Buick aficionado. Owned a GNX, told me about the proprietary supercharger oil (that makes gear lube smell like Channel #5)

Anyway, he turned me on to Liquid Luster.
mceclip0
For an old school carnuba product it’s pretty easy to use. And it lasts a long time. I only use it on my Ducati now, because I’ve gone to modern (easy) stuff for the cars. That was in 2002-2003 and I still have about 1/3 of it left.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • mceclip0

Brings back memories of “Blue Coral” back in the 1960’s.

The package told you to do small areas at a time.  I did that for the polishing stuff and it took forever and an hour.  I thought that was so 1920’s so I applied the sealant to the entire car all at once.  

By the time I got to rubbing out the sealant, the stuff had dried so hard and fast that no amount of rubbing was gonna remove it.  I was afraid to try chemicals to remove it for fear of taking the paint off, too.  
Finally and in desperation, I tried a little gasoline on a rag and Sonofagun, it cut it.  I ended up using gas all over the car in small areas at a time to get that stuff off, then I had to start all over again with the polishing compound and then the sealant but this time I did areas like two square feet at a time.  All together, the whole process took forever and three days.

Live and learn.  Maybe I should try some-a that fancy Ceramic Coating stuff……

It too has to be used in small areas at a time.

My wife and I went to North Carolina recently and prior to leaving I left her 2018 Macan at the detail shop for a full paint correction and application of a five year ceramic coating. I bought the vehicle in 2020 and don't know if it had a prior ceramic coating or not. It did bead water very well but I noticed a reduction in that recently. Also, when I ran the back of my hand across the paint I could feel the impurities in the paint. Bering Carrera White Metallic though the car still looked very nice. But here it is now after picking it up:

garage 5macan 1macan 2

Attachments

Images (3)
  • garage 5
  • macan 1
  • macan 2

In my experience, “5 year” means it guaranteed for 5 years. As I previously posted, my first application lasted 7 and the second is on year 5 and still going strong. I honestly see a quality job lasting 10-15 years provided it’s a) stored indoors and b) cleaned with the proper detail spray and a microfiber cloth.

Obviously, things happen that require a car wash, but keeping them to a minimum keeps the ceramic protected. I rarely “wash” either the Spyder or the 968 more than once a year.

@Robert M posted:

It too has to be used in small areas at a time.

The Glosit detail spray I use is like the Scotch tape ad: “Frosty on the roll, transparent on the job.” When you spray it and first start to rub, it’s kind of cloudy and as you rub it in, it turns to gloss. You can do as large if an area as you wish, as long as your arm holds out. It’s just easier to do it in small sections. Usually fender, 1/2 hood, other 1/2 hood, other fender, door, fender…etc as you work your way around the car.

@dlearl476 posted:

The Glosit detail spray I use is like the Scotch tape ad: “Frosty on the roll, transparent on the job.” When you spray it and first start to rub, it’s kind of cloudy and as you rub it in, it turns to gloss. You can do as large if an area as you wish, as long as your arm holds out. It’s just easier to do it in small sections. Usually fender, 1/2 hood, other 1/2 hood, other fender, door, fender…etc as you work your way around the car.

I was referring to the modern ceramic products. They generally come in about 60ml bottles which is enough to do two coats on one average size car. You only do a little bit at a time and you only apply a very small amount at a time, wait for it to dry to a haze (some are applied under UV lighting so you can see when it's ready to be buffed off), and then you move on to the next section. If a second coat is applied you need to allow the first coat to dry a minimum amount of time before applying the second coat. And when that is all done the whole thing should be allowed to cure for a specified amount of time before it is allowed to get wet or is exposed to any chemicals. But the results, in terms of protection, are so far superior to any modern waxes that the results can't even be compared.

An imaginary internet friend just posted on another forum about his PCA chapter having a demo by the Guys from The Rag Company about this product. He bought a special they had and his just finished doing an ONR wash and HyperCoat on his 981 Boxster in about 45 minutes.

They had it on prime so I ordered some and as soon as it gets here I’m going to go try it out. They didn’t have the HyperCoat on next day delivery, it will be here Wednesday. But the ONR stuff should be here in about an hour.

Last edited by dlearl476

While I’m on the subject of rubbin’ and shinin’, Here’s a tip from the guy who installed my top. He told me the best thing to clean German fabric is Ivory dish soap and a soft brush.

I took my filthy boot off and hung it on the floor mat clips at the car wash, wet it with “spot free rinse” on low pressure, scrubbed it with soapy water, then rinsed it off.
kKLmMW5-0%21sizeoriginal

Looks good as new. There was a dark line all the way across it where you can see the windshield header of the top underneath it. Got it all out. Same with the dirt on all the other edges.
IMG_8405
I’ve got to give the one mark another pass.



First attempt at the opticoat no rinse:

IMG_8429

I’m glad the HyperSeal won’t be here until Wednesday, I decided I wanted to give it a pass with the clay bar before I apply the coating.

Attachments

Images (3)
  • kKLmMW5-0%21sizeoriginal
  • IMG_8405
  • IMG_8429
Last edited by dlearl476

I got the HyperSeal yesterday so I ONR’d it again* and applied the coating this afternoon. I gotta say I’m really impressed. It was pretty easy to apply and damned if it doesn’t looks as good as it did when I had Glossit do it. (For $600 the first time w/color correction and $400 to have it re-coated)

IMG_5129It’s kind of hard to tell in this light, but it really brought out the deep purple in the Midnight Blue.



*I’ve washed it more this week than I have in the last 4 years.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • IMG_5129
Last edited by dlearl476
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×