Foam for Waterproofing

I have some large voids forward of the rear wheels that need to be waterproofed. I have been told not to use the 'tough stuff' foam you purchase at the hardware store for this application. Something to do with the density of the foam, lack there of in this case. I was thinking a marine foam would work better. Has anyone worked with any of these mix and pour foams?
Paul

Are you talking about the wheel wells? If so, you can make a fender well shield by cutting some light-weight aluminum sheeting and fasten/caulk it to fill that space.
Follow Tom Dewalt's thread on rebuilding the green coupe.
If it's the smaller areas between the axles, where the body meets the frame, you can fill it with silicone caulk, or you can use the expanding foam that has a "softer" expansion. The stuff that's used around windows and doors.

Terry, thanks for the response. I took a look at the green coupe thread. If I can fill the void (it is in the wheel well forward of the frame tube) I do not think there will be a need to fabricate the metal splash guard. I have already used sealant along the body to pan seams at the interior. The void is about 3 inches wide by 3 inches deep and would be impossible to get the caulk gun into. Water would pond up in the area. Foam the area in and apply undercoat to the surface of it should work??

You can find some pics of the work I am in the middle of here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/paulericrich

Paul, I was unaware that you were literally starting over with your car! Looks like you're doing a very sano job.
You can add a piece of fuel line to the end of your caulk tube to reach tight places - it just takes a strong hand and a decent gun to force the silicone.
But I think the foam will work just as well. Fill it up and trim when dry.
How about glassing over the area once you fill it?

I used both ("great stuff")'crack sealer' - which is a high expansion rate. And I also used 'window and door sealer' which expands at a lower rate. I preferd the later which just seamed to expand at a more relaxed rate and the cured foam seemed to contain smaller or tighter 'cell' formation. When I helped Tom DeWalt seal the green coupe, He had a black low expansion foam that was used in and around garden ponds. That worked very well. I looked for the foam at landscape shops and places that deal with pond supplies but they were all out of it. I had to resort to great stuff. I also used a foam product doing my car made by GE with good results. One tip is to use clear hose attached to the nosel of the spray can. To reach the small hard to reach areas add a length of copper fuel or equivilant to the end of the flexable hose. Have a helper control the triger on the can.

I took a trip to West Marine today and picked up some foam. $20, not cheap, but I only want to do this once. The brand is Evercoat, it claims to Seal, Fill, Caulk, insulate, and says its waterproof. For all I know the "Great Stuff" may claim to do the same. Water tends to be a big deal when leaking through a boat hull so I will stick with the marine grade foam. On the interior I used 'Surethane' polyurethane adhesive. Purchased it from Eastwood, very happy with it. I picked up another tube of sealant at west marine to waterproof the metal plate that is riveted to the bottom of my tunnel. It is supposed to stay flexible and can be easily cleaned.
Great tips to ad fuel line or the like to reach into tight spaces. Rocky, would be nice to have a helping hand to pull the trigger... doing all this on my own.
Terry, I did not plan on breaking the car down to this extent. My doors had to be shipped back to TR for reinforcement. I figured while the car was not able to be driven Id take car of a couple things:

Re-route Fuel lines per Dellorto
install Sway bar (what a Pain in the A$$)
Waterproof interior of car
Install Amplifier and wire car to receive speakers (removable box)
Adjust steering wheel height/location
Replace Tachometer
Install sound dampening (help to eliminate breeze coming from the floor-when its 25 degrees outside the air blowing up the shifter at your hand is painful!)
steam clean carpets (dingy from previous flooding)
Re-install doors
replace dash pad (original is wavy-in the vertical direction)
replace door top rails and relocate side curtain hardware to interior side
Install rubber seal where top bow meets windhsield
Get Dellortos jetted-tuned

Tom McBurnie has been gracious enough to help with the doors and get the sidecurtains/top rails back to me, along with sending a tach-no charge, and replacing the carpet at the tunnel that was stained badly due to clutch pedal/cable work and the flooding.


I really hope to get it all done before Carlisle!

Even if it's not completely finished but IS drivable, bring it. If it isn't drivable, come anyway.

Lane, Ill be up on Saturday either way. Just emailed Gordon hoping to get on the list for dinner Saturday night.
paul

Paul:

All set for dinner.

Evercoat and Surethane are GREAT products. I've used them both on my sailboat (I sure miss her) and other people's boats as well. The Evercoat has a waterproof, closed-cell formulation that works wonders in heavy, water-intrusive applications. We've actually shot some of that into small holes in the hull structure (on double-hulled boats) and then gel coated over it and the damn stuff held!!!

Be careful when using the Surethane, as it is EXTREMELY sticky when shot on and curing. the only way to get it off yourself is abrasion (like sandpaper). It seemed like everything we tried to dissolve it only made it worse.

gn

Gordon,

That is exactly what I wanted to hear concerning the foam! I was impressed with the Surethane, your right about it being sticky.

I joined a sailing club here in Baltimore, primarily J-22's. $200 for the summer gets you on a boat whenever you'd like (with a skipper certification) and the club races 3 nights a week. Between the speedster and sailing, summer could not get here soon enough!

Looking forward to dinner.

Paul

Paul,

Sorry to see how much redo is required for your Speedster but it looks like you're in control. Glad to hear Tom is kicking in on some of the replacement stuff. If you can, the other three days of the weekend are also a great time - with or without a Speedster....my Speedster engine is blown so this year we're taking the daily driver for the whole weekend. Hopefully there will be some open right seats.

BTW, let's talk sailing at Carlisle.

Hey Paul -

Ya need anyone to help you crew for those mid-week beer can (sailing) races? We've been in many Wednesday afternoon races with our Catalina 36, never won, but what the heck!

Looking forward to hanging out with you guys at Carlisle!

Paul , The foam is not the way to go on the wheel wells. It will collect road dirt,and its a son of gun to remove if you need to do any body repairs. Another thing is that the foam will expand ,and expand , and expand. Seems like it never stops ...especially in hot climates. The aluminum sheet metal is the way to go. You can always remove it as needed. Secure it with silicone and some big head pop rivets.

Just when I thought I had it all figured out!!! Thanks Joe.

Don't let Joe's mad skillz depress you. We all strive but fall short of his brilliance ;-)

C'mon, Joe, ya gotta come to Carlisle again. It's been 3 years!

Picture what goes on when you drive at 55MPH in the rain. Inside your wheel well theres a monsoon with tropical force winds.

The best waterproofing jobs always provide an "out" that is, a weephole at or near the bottom of any cavity . That will allow the accumulated spray to exit. Even if you never drive in the rain, condensation can accumulate in an undrained cavity.

Lane , I want to go sooo bad . Unfortunately I have Big plans with my daughters graduation this year. Hoping to go next year with the project car.
Paul sorry for the let down. I have had a lot of experience with the two part pour foams and boat hulls . I was big into racing tunnel hull hydros ( sst / mod class) . Blow overs really sucked. If you want some tips on doing sheet metal email me.
Joe

Lane:


DO NOT work on your car.....just drive it.

DO NOT work on your car.....just drive it.

DO NOT work on your car.....just drive it.


Repeat this as often as necessary until after Carlisle.

Lane:

Repeat.....DO NOT WORK ON YOUR CAR!!!