For Those of You Using a 911 Shroud

I have acquired a 911 shroud to combat my ongoing heat issues but I have no documentation as to installation and needed parts.
I'd appreciate it If you wouldn't mind getting in touch with me.
Thanks,

tpnuckelsATaol.com

Terry, PM'd you.

Terry... Don't mask the problem with more cooling. What are the engine specs? And what cooling problems are you having, and in what situations?

Mike

All's good, Mike.
There are many factors that led me to this path, not just cooling.
Besides, Penny likes wearing sexy underwear...;-)

Don't we all ;-)

angela

Things like fuel mix to lean.. Compression set up to high.. to small a oil cooler. Or even the wrong pully ratio on the crank. You got lots of options to try ..

First discribe your conditon and circumstance.. if it's just creeping up after a long hard drive.. OIL COOLER is first.. then pully ratio nedd to decrease on the engine if it persist..

And if all else fails, then you have to do some engine work to lower compression. Feel free to correct me anyone.

Terry, is this a real Porsche shroud, or a Bernie Bergman 911 style shroud?

Tery, if it's a real one, drop me a line. No knowledge at all on the Bergmann.

It's not a real one as it's made for a type I engine.
As I mentioned, I have no documentation on it but it doesn't look like the current Bergman shroud.
My biggest concern is the carb linkage. I've seen some with a typical hex type and a more centrally place pivot on the air cleaner base. I guess you could also use a bell-crank linkage as well.
Anyway, I'm just looking to others who can give me their thoughts on the system and how they dealt with remote cooler placement as well as the linkage, remaining engine tin, etc.
Photos would be helpful.

Everything I've ever read and every project I've worked on points to the fact that a stock VW fan shroud works better than a 911 "style" shroud. A "real" 911 shroud won't work on a VW engine so all of them are fabrications. The only similarity is they use a 911 fan and alternator. Jake's DTM is about the only shroud that works better than a 911 'style' shroud.

In addition, with the 911 'style' shroud, you'll need an exterior oil cooler with a fan and in a 356 replica, it requires some creative planning to get the cooler in a spot that has a high flow air supply and is protected from road debris. Just my thoughts as there are thousands of the 911 'style' shrouds in use.

my oil cooler was put under back seat

2 posts above I wrote """ Jake's DTM is about the only shroud that works better than a 911 'style' shroud.

It should have read "Jake's DTM is about the only shroud that works better than a stock VW shroud"

Those 911 shrouds on a vw engine will make cylinders 2 & 4 run hotter. Air can't make the 90-120 degree turn without diverter vanes to hit those cylinders so most of the air gets blown over 1 & 3. On a porsche, that style fan actually sits further rear of the engine so the air can actually move down over the rear-most cylinders.

I had a Bernie Bergman 911 styled shroud on my IM (first time around). It looked cool, but I couldn't tell you how well it cooled. I installed a big external oil cooler above the transmission, with a fan, which ran most of the time. Going by the VDO oil temperature gauge the engine never overheated. Mind you, I didn't have a cylinder temperature gauge, so I have no idea how hot the heads got.
As for linkage, I used the CSP bell styled linkage. I mounted it behind the shroud.

Yes...the 911 fan and shroud is a sexy beast.....however cooling data show that it cools grossly uneven across all cylinders.

Mike

ID rather see a twin fanned 4 cammer type shroud developed for both type one's and type four's

That would be 4 seperate air streams, one for each cylinder and head. it would have to have a remote oil cooler.

I think it could beat the DTM..

But at the present A DTM IS your best upgrade with a remote oil cooler

On my new install, I had debated to change out to a DTM when I got this engine in January. This is a Sharpbuilt shroud. The view down the throat looks pretty good, however I can see where 2&4 might get starved somewhat. My oil cooler has been tucked up driver side next to the tranny. You can barely see it (grey box) in the underside photo here. If there's room for a fan do you think I should go for it? The fan would mount directly over the fins I would imagine, correct? Any estimates on the cost of such a fan? I was so happy with my Cali conversion last year on the 1911cc, it ran perfect and never showed signs of overheating.

Terry, that's what I meant. Mine has a 911 fan, ring, and alternator. I had my local electric shop convert it to a one wire setup, one thick charge wire to the battery, and a skinny wire to the idiot light on the dash.

The fan ring must be lathed down on the outside to fit the billet aluminum plate that covers the oil breather mounting area and fuel pump mount. Six bolts are used(studs are removed), and a couple of those must be indexed and ground down a bit as they stick up into the area where the fan ring mounts. The oil fill with that setup is shitty as hell! I used distributorless ignition, so I cut the top off an old distributor, removed the distributor drive, lathed it down a bit. Then it was pressed into about an inch and a quarter OD filler tube, with JB weld for sealing. The steel tube coming out of the aluminum plate is plumbed into my breather system.

Rich's Sharpebuilt shroud looks nicer made than mine. It looks like my fan sits lower so I would think I have more clearance at the top.

My Alternator stand/oil filler looks totally different than either of yours. I don't have my engine available for mock-up so I'm at a loss as to what mods I will have to make, but it looks like I have the clearance to add an angled oil filler extension to my set up.
My engine builder, Ken Jansen, also sells a 911 shroud that has an oil cooler mounted under the shroud horizontally. We're going to see if mine can be modified to accept an oil cooler. If not, I will fabricate a vane system, like the original 911 shroud, to distribute the air more evenly.
Thanks Rich and Danny.
How about your carb linkage?

Hexbar behind the shroud. You would probably have to change/modify the existing throttle cable for a Speedster setup. My Spyder uses a Morse type sheathed pull cable all the way to the gas pedal. If you use a hexbar I STRONGLY recommend modifying it with heim joints. CB Performance uses a ball/socket affair that wears out and becomes sloppy quickly! Other brands use a quick wearing plactic/nylon. Linkage precision is EVERYTHING for part throttle drivability and carb sync.

Terry, I would like to see some pics of your shroud parts if you can.

TP, heres a pic of my Bergmann 2387 as it came from him. linkage worked well. I did have a problem getting to the fan belt nut on top but a couple of swivel 45ers and all was good. I ran 2 oil coolers and never had a problem.

On mine, once I had the CSP bell linkage set up it worked great. Easy to adjust too.