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found the heating issue, on to the muffler

FM Former Member
Now that the engine has been dropped and on a stand, I found the main reason that my temps were pegged. The shroud hose on the back of the engine had be cut by the fan and thus not allowing any air to get pushed through the oil cooler. see picture

Also, now that the engine is out I want to try and play around with the exhaust and start taking measurements. I would like to add the pee-shooters, but I am not sure if they will match up without having to cut, bend and reweld the headers. The engine is a 914 2.o liter with bus headers off the manifold. Does any one have any suggestions on what is sold out there stock to make the match?
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FM Former Member
Now that the engine has been dropped and on a stand, I found the main reason that my temps were pegged. The shroud hose on the back of the engine had be cut by the fan and thus not allowing any air to get pushed through the oil cooler. see picture

Also, now that the engine is out I want to try and play around with the exhaust and start taking measurements. I would like to add the pee-shooters, but I am not sure if they will match up without having to cut, bend and reweld the headers. The engine is a 914 2.o liter with bus headers off the manifold. Does any one have any suggestions on what is sold out there stock to make the match?

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  • root of the problem
  • engine out
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FM Former Member
Pulled the motor three times once on a ford cuz I heard a noise I was convinced was a bent flex plate scraping on a housing. Put the motor back in and replaced the $12.00 u.joint. If you want I can send you a charitable donation of $4.oo for the hose but you're gonna have to cover the labour of pulling that motor to replace the hose. Oops, can you do that with the motor in??? I feel your pain

Rodger
FM Former Member
I don't want to knock anyones design but it seems that this hose has been crushed on speedsters before. Usually at the top of the engine. From my layman's point of view I would think it wise to extend the solid upper duct and keep it rigid fiberglass. Smooth inner walls
of a solid tube would flow better that a ribbed duct anyway. It would be a cleaner look
also.
Alan MerklinAlan MerklinDrclock - Elkins, West Virginia Supporting Member
On the Raby Type IV motor I had in a speedster....
I heated a piece of black PVC into an oval shape to clear the right deck hinge while retaining the rounded end to slip onto the DTM shroud. While it worked out fine I didn't care for the less than show quality appearance. I redesigned the deck hinges out of stronger stainless, this allowed for the hinge stock to narrow to 1/2"
thickness where a deep curve was made to clear the top of the DTM shroud. I have the templetes if needed.
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