Four post lifts

As I get closer to replacing my daily driver, I realize how much I dislike the idea of parking a new car outside. Since one of the criteria for Pam agreeing to the Speedster purchase was my promise that I wouldn't run her out of the garage, I am looking for ways to provide covered parking for 3 cars with only a 2-car garage. I need to take some measurements, but I believe a small-capacity four post lift will fit once I move the garage door rails up to the ceiling. Right now they are a couple of feet below it, and would conflict with the car on the lift.

Ok, do any of you have experience with such lifts, particularly with the different brands? This is not a cheap solution, but may be the only one other than moving or just putting a cover on the car outside and hoping to avoid hailstorms. Any input would be helpful.

I had the same problem you have and have just this year installed a 4 post lift. Buy a Hemming

I have to Directlift Propark 7000. I have had it about 4 years with no issues. I had mine setup when it was delivered which cost a little more, but I highly recommend it.

I also have a panel style garage door, so I had a couple of extra panels installed and the tracks extended to the ceiling. Couldn't imagine life without a lift now.

You'll most likely make a few new friends once you get it!

Lane, I also have the Direct Lift Pro Park 8. Easy peasy to install. Go to the Direct Lift website and download the build instructions for the Pro Park 8,so that you have an idea of how it all fits together. It took me all of 4 hours from beginning to end(running Ruby up and down).
The most cumbersome part of the entire install is putting the 410 lb. lift ramp in place. It has the hydraulic ram underneath. You WILL need assistance with that. Invite a couple of strong buddies over and offer them all the beer they can drink, AFTER the lift is put together. Worked for me. I became very popular with my car friends after the install. As far as the garage door opener changes, you can do it all yourself. You don't need to pay a "garage guy" to do it. If you already have an overhead door opener, remove it and put it up for sale on ebay. Buy yourself a "jackshaft opener from Chamberlin for about $300.00. It mounts directly to the "spring torsion bar" that is on the face of the wall where your current garage door is mounted.. Again,go to the Chamberlin website and download the instructions for the install. You will NOT have to make any changes to the track. The lift and car will fit between the currently installed overhead rails. I saved at least $1500.00 doing the install myself.
Any questions email me. I have all pertinent measurements.

Thanks for the info, guys. Allan, I think I would still have to move the garage door as it will sit right where the car would be when both are raised. Have you got a picture of what you did?

Lane,
What is the depth of your garage? Mine is 25'. You will need 14'-7" of garage depth to accommodate the lift. Plus, in order to clear the track you need to measure the distance from the front wall of the garage to the garage door rear in the full up position. Add those two distances together,and if they are less than the overall width of the garage,you don't need to mess with the tracks.

Lane, do it you will not be disappointed.

The 4 post are provides decent service, and better storage solution over 2 posts. I've had a Bend Pak for more than a dozen years and love it. You will make new friends and often will find the UPS or FedX delivery people stuck in the garage checking it out.

I disagree that this is really crazy expensive splurge. OK, it's a splurge, but actually inexpensive compared to any new construction for a 3rd car parking solution and incredibly useful if you crawl around cars for a hobby.

There are many providers today in the 2-3k range, delivery often is free, unbelievably, set up was not that difficult, , , but get the drip pans, you'll need them.

Good luck.

Boston Bob E

I bought a 9000 pound Direct lift 4 post last week. It took me maybe 5 hours to bolt it together and put it in operation. Mine runs off 220vac, some use 120 vac. I also have it in an RV bay that is 12' tall, which is very nice. I can put 2 full size cars in the bay now. I picked it up with a U-haul trailer and used an engine hoist to move the parts and put it together. It would have been better to have a couple of buddies help, but no one was available when i needed to do the assembly. It is too much for one person working alone.....just FYI. Be prepared to supply a power cord for most lifts as they don't come with one. I was fortunate in that the dealer is 3 miles from my front door....they wanted $500 to set up the lift...which is not too bad, but I figured I paid myself $100 per hour to do it myself.... unit was $1995 + local tax

Just curious...any concerns about the floor being able to support the four weight footprints? I believe they suggest a minimum thickness for the concrete but you would probably have to drill to determine the thickness.

Bruce,
My slab thickness is 4" with a firm stone base. No issues!

The engineering answer to ECB's query is simple: cannot answer, need more data, such as ratio of cement, sand, aggregate (class A, B), time of cure, underlayment, slab thickness, yada, yada.

Real world answer: even a 3 5/8" slab, the thickness of a dressed 2" x 4", will be able to bear a weight of 2000-4000 psi. If the upright posts of your lift have a plate on the base, e.g., 4-5" square to distribute weight, you can't put enough weight from the lift itself and a vehicle that will fit in your garage to damage your concrete.

The post bases are more like 10"x12" times 4 of course. And, unlike the 2 posts, the 4 post does not require bolting to the floor. As a matter of fact some if not most of the 4 post lifts come with lift wheel systems that allow you to roll it about. In my case I am thinking of rolling mine out into the drive way to power spray and clean the engine compartment, suspension, and under carriage on a couple of cars...

lane try eagleequip. ive had their four post for 4 years,they are in your neighborhood, so shipping will be less, the std lift will lift 70000 lbs, but the safety factor is 20% so it will lift 5500lbs safely, but who has anything that heavy anymore, and it has wheels. call me if you need info. bill

Thanks a lot, guys. Now there's another thing I didn't know existed that now I have to have.

I have a Bend-pac four post lift at home. I love it. I had to rework the garage door so that it opened high enough for the top vehicle. Make sure that the frame of the lift is powder coated. Some less exoensive bare metal or painted lifts deteriorate with time. Great investment.

Take note there that there is quite a number of Chinese lifts that are crap and dangerous... do your homework.

Yeah, I've already heard about that.

When I broached the lift idea to Pam, her response was "Why don't we just get a bigger house?"

We put in an Auto Lift Car Park 8 (8000 lbs) lift last year. It seems to be as rugged as any of the other brands discussed. It was $1695.00 plus deliver and installation at $495.00 from a SoCal dealer. The lift included steel ramps at 50+ lbs each. After wrestling with the steel ramps for almost a year, we bought a set of aluminum ramps which weigh only 18 lbs each.

drclock, I did look around quite a bit at lifts, including those that are "made in America". It appears to me that 90% or more of the lifts on the market are made in China and just a guess, but it looks to me as if they are only made in a couple of factories and are then marketed under many names. I also looked at the made in America lifts and I see little difference other than the price and a made in America label on the motor. There are perhaps a couple of exceptions well up the food chain.....

I bought mine from a wholesaler who sells them under several different names and just sends out decals with the appropriate name on them for the buyer to apply....and I do think the 4 post, no matter the country of origin, properly installed, is reasonably safe for our light weight cars. My lift does not even strain to lift my 3300 pound 928, it is rated for 9000 pounds, so a 1500 pound Speedster is not even a minor inconvenience....

Lane - you need to build a man-cave on the second story above the garage. Then make sure you get a post lift with sufficient height. Then you put some trapdoors in the second story floor, right above the lift. Open the trapdoors, raise the speedster up into the second story, and you're right at home with your car to think up more new projects!

If I can't go to the garage - let the garage come to me!

Someone likes red.

What's wrong with that?

I have personally seen two lifts that failed ...read this and save your arse. http://www.autolift.org/
Also click on Buyer Beware tab...

No matter which lift you choose, make sure you follow all the maintenance recommendations. Check all the hardware and fasteners weekly. Remember,you have a lot of weight hoisted up there. Take nothing for granted especially when you are underneath it.

I'm with Doc Clock on this issue. And wonder why it's not a criminal offense to fraudulently market something as safety tested/compliant. A lot is at stake; Feds ought to take them down, imho.

I checked the websites and prices are higher than those posted...Deals? I am interested, but not rich.

GG

http://www.completehydraulic.com/lifts-4-post-cl08000cs.html

George, here is one example....

I hope a lift didn't drop on Tom....

...hey Buddy, you O.K.?

Thanks, Jim...I am lookin'.

GG