Frame chassis

Not seen actual measurements.  Over years I've save pictures of what the bare CMC/FF reinforced chassis looks like.  The rear side pieces need additional support to prevent butt sag.  This is for attaching to a VW shortened pan.  If you have to build the chassis from scratch - why not just go with a tubular chassis? Sorry some were saved small - I have additional small ones I can provide.

 

Check out (Chesil 3 part series)-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5OTmHvTI3D4

 

This coversVW pan shortening - says there are links to build on DDK replica site.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMmf37sP5RU

 

 

 

Thanks mate, In am going onto a Beetle Pan, It's, I see loads of the sub frame but no dimensions or where they have bought it (not that I want to do that) I spos dimensions will come with my Body unless you just go-by-feel, custom made, I really want to get a hand on this before the body does arrive, I'll have 2 weeks of doing nothing, can't have that. Pics were helpful. I'll have to paint some more.

Thanks, Robb

What brand body are you getting?  For the US FF/CMC the sub frame was supplied with the kit.  RustyTubs has a separate sub frame available $695 - shipping would kill you.  I think the photos I saved are from cars that burnt.  One frame was for sale on ebay - but it was crispy.  The Chesil video shows a separate galvanized metal sub-frame that is different from the CMC one.  Have you cleaned up the VW pan yet.  I wouldn't shorten it without build specs but you could weld in the beam adjusters.  

 

http://www.rustytubs.com/porsc...-like-origin356.html

Wolfgang;

Is the jacking point diagram in the knowledge base of any help here?

The floorpan WAS a Beach Buggy so ready shortened, I got the Body from Pilgrim in Brighton UK, great company, yea I can get the subframe from them but it would have cost me another £1500 as as I am/was an engineer I want to do my own, I did build the Buggy, beam ready done, it's all done, just recovered the pan with flat steel

Personally, I think you should just wait to measure off the actual body. I've never seen dimensions for the subframe anywhere (except that the perimeter frame rails are 2x4 inch.), there's no guarantee that your body will necessarily match someone else's even if they measured it for you, and if you guess wrong on the dimensions, you'll have twice the work to redo things. I would say the most you could do without needing the body measurements would be the front and rear bulkhead cross members, they look straightforward enough to make and key off the existing pan width.

 

You should also verify the wheelbase of your chassis. Not all buggies are shortened the same amount. 356 wheelbase is 2100mm.

Dune buggies are usually shortened ~14" where the Speedster is ~11" - so may need to stretch it a tad.

I believe you shorten 11.8  see Library here  to lengthen a shortened buggy pan chassis is doable but will need to be spot on 

 

 

Yes, beetle wheelbase is 2400mm, 356 is 2100mm. 300mm is 11.81 inches. You cut out a 10inch wide section and overlap the rest.

Thanks for all that lads, There is another solution but not sure it it's good/safe enough, "Beam Extender" They put them onto VolksRods about 12 inches I plus I think, not that I'm going to need 10 foot, I think I'll get away with 3 inches, What you think??? not really the Ideal solution but will save allot of work extending Floor Pan accurately. I do have all the dimensions for one of these solong as I strengthen up the underside. YES??????

One negative is that you'll short yourself 3" of legroom.  These cars aren't that generous in that department anyway, and you might need the space.

Not only will you short yourself of legroom (as Lane pointed out), but I would think that with the pan area being shorter you'd have trouble lining up the body to bolt down properly. It's not the easiest, but maybe cutting the pan and making it the right dimension is the best fix? Al

I've just measured my wheel base it come out at 2070mm, 30mm (inch n half) short, It could work ??????  Do you think??

If it's an inch and a half short, along with the bolt holes and other items, that also means the front wheels will be set back an inch and a half further back than they should be. I would strongly consider a different pan, or lengthening the one you have. About the same amount of work, regardless.

Ted

I guess there are always caster adjusting shims and longer beam bolts but at best that's 1/2". The CMC sub-frame has 2 larger bolts either side in the front that are critical - since you are fabbing the sub-frame perhaps you could elongate that connection. I'd check the manf figures and use your 2 week wait time to correct.  Many say the front wheels look to be too far back in the front (even when chassis is correct length).

 

I'm gona go and rebuild the engine to take my mind of all this and wait till the body arrives as it might be totally different to your CMC body., the guy this end say It will be OK ? If all goes tits up I'll lengthen the pan to suit. But that's not without trying other less time consuming Ideas. Spacers,Makedoo's,bit's of string till it is perfect, then lengthen pan.

O yea, Engine will be 2332cc

The primary measurement for normal body/subframe fitment is from the outermost of the two closely-spaced holes at the ends of the front bulkhead (near the front outer corners of the actual floorpans) to the forwardmost of the two body mounting holes on the rear shock tower. It should be 58.5 inches (1486mm) between these holes.

 

Since you are building your own subframe, it'd be possible to fudge things a bit to make it work if that isn't correct. However, even if you split the wheelbase difference front and rear, I'm not sure you'd be happy with the look of the uneven wheel well to tire gaps if the wheelbase is too far off. It's close enough to work physically, but I'd definitely drop the body over the chassis to get a look at the aesthetics then decide if you want to do the extra work on the chassis.

 

Also, make sure you look and measure things with the suspension at normal ride height. The wheels move backwards and up in an arc as the suspension compresses, so if you just have the bare chassis sitting there with no weight on it, the wheels will be further forward than when the car is assembled.

A short wheelbase as mentioned, you'll come up short at the floor taper along the floor to the frame head panel and as others mentioned the wheel will be set back too far on the front wheel well. Even a 1/2" shy screws the pooch at that angle on the floor .... no pun intended.

Hi Robb

 

If you are in UK you should talk with Gary at the Speedster clinic........Knows all there is to know !!

 

Also on FB with his brand new offering, the Coupe body

 

https://www.facebook.com/speedsterclinic?fref=ts