frame coatings

What are you guys using, I want to permanently rust proof this rolling pan after the sandblasting process, I don;t like the rubbery stuff, looking more into some 2 part urethane or something nice and glossy that I can use on my suspension components aswell, anyone?

I've been told that Dupont's Centari is good (I don't know if it's being manufactured anymore). Then there's always your old reliable Rust Oleum.

Ricardo: you mean just acrylic enamel paint with a primer base?

Yep; worked great with a dune buggy I built years ago. You shouldn't have so much of a rust problem in Corpus Christi as we do here....

You could also try POR 15

STEVE: You might want to consider powder coating the frame.

Many restoration folks powder coat the frame / pan and even some of the other mechanical parts (axles, etc.). It's an electrolytic process and the object must be sand blasted before the powder coating is applied. The metal part is hooked up for an electrical charge and powdery microfine beads of coating are sprayed on the metal. They are attracted to the metal by the electrical charge and bond. It puts a thick covering on the metal that feels like fibergalss resin with a little resiliancy. It's pretty cool and seems very durable. It's not like paint because it doesn't chip as easily. They make it nearly every imaginable color. Most body shops can refer you to place that do this.

Of course, powder coating is also a "bake-on". POR 15, or other equivelents is a great option.

I have used Rust-oleum in all speedster chassis I've built.
A quart will do it brushed on and not a thin spray coat.

If you are going to apply a different top coating say the color of the car.......
Do Not use Rust-oleum as it has natural fish oils in it and can cause final coat problems.

Only problem with POR15 is that it is UV sensative. Anywhere sun can directly hit it its protection will break down. Top coat will not stick to it either , though POR15 makes a enamel top coat that does. One tip I learned from one of the POR15 distributers is to spray a light coat of whatever you finish with while POR is still tacky. It will adhere this way and your finish coat adhere to the light coat you put on. I tryed it and it worked. POR15 is near indistructable if done right.

Another product out there is made by Eastwood. Not UV sensative but not quite as tough as POR15.


Around here a pan blast and powdercoat costs around $250 but is the best as far as I'm concerned.

Ben

Steve,

The best around is called mastercoat::

>Mastercoat Silver
I found this paint at a swap meet. I had never heard of it. It was designed to seal rust. You could sandblast parts, or wire brush loose rust off, then apply heavier. It's a Moisture Cured Urethane (MCU) called Mastercoat. This stuff is great. It contains 60% aluminum. It's fuel proof, acid proof, brake fluid proof. Has extremely high chip resistance. It was $30 a qt 6 yrs ago. I bought over 10 qts over the years. Used it on 3 different vehicles, and 4 different snowplows. They also make a two part clear coat that can be tinted with pigments to any desired color, or left clear. Talk about high gloss!! Acetone doesn't even soften this stuff until it's been soaking in it for hours. I'm not sure if he's on the web or not. He does travel the USA to swap meets. It has it's own thinner for thinning, and cleaning the gun. He recommends you brush on the first coat, for better coverage, and higher build. This stuff is high build. It will hide rust pock marks on a chassis. It may take sanding, and a few extra coats, but the thicker you put it on, the better the protection. I used the clear coat on my snowplow. It was like glass, the snow didn't stick at all. No rust. I replaced my cutting edge, and went over the clear, with Meyer Sno-Flo yellow. The clear is just as slick, or slicker than the OEM paint. I gotta get more !!Look for Mastercoat Industries, in West Milford, NJ, in the yellow or white pages online.<

Above quote from another forum. The stuff is AMAZING ! ! ! ! ! ! !
The silver is a heavy base containing metal and all, the black is a top coat that will outlast your house and foundation. It's impervious to everything including UV and will fill in holes and pits and suck for a perfect surface.

Try it once and you'll never look back . . .

TC

TE that sounds great, I'll look for it

Por15 is UV sensitive, but only in as much as it will change colour if exposed to direct sunlight.

It's rust protection etc. is not affected