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So a couple weeks ago I finally got my horns to work...the first owner of the car had had a Python car alarm installed...'pro' installation...lol<shaking head>...wires cut, spliced by wrapping wires together, not even soldered, wrapped with electrical tape, etc. a real mess. I pulled the alarm out figuring rightly that this is/was the source of several electrical gremlins...finally got the turn signals to work as they are supposed to, got the headlights to work as they were supposed to(even have 'flash to pass now) and of course the horns.

 

So today the darn horns quit working. I have power to the horns through the relay and back up to the '68 column, power is registered at 12+ volts on terminals 30, 87, 86, on the relay, yet terminal 85 the brn wire up thru the column only has 3-4 volts. Makes me think that the relay is bad? because I bypassed the relay and I have horns once again??? Is the relay really necessary?

 

Eventually I plan on installing some Hella horns but for now I'm more concerned about passing Colorado inspection/vin check which I hope to do soon as soon as the weather breaks enough to get the car to the inspection station.

 

 

"Breathe in, Breathe out...life is too short to sweat the small stuff...God,Family and Country"

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Typical horn relay wiring (with 68 column):

30: +12V from fuse box

87: power out to horn

86: +12V jumpered from #30 (so you don't have to run another wire to the fuse box)

85: to the wire on the upper column bearing (bearing must be isolated from outer column tube by plastic bushings)

 

68 Column wiring:

Wire must connect from steering box, jump over the rag joint, up through the center of the steering shaft, and connect to the horn button.

 

Horn wiring (the horn isn't polarity sensitive, the terminals can be hooked up either way):

Terminal 1: power from relay #87

Terminal 2: connect to ground

 

 

Relay terminal 87 should only have +12V when the horn button is pressed, otherwise 0V.

Relay terminal 85 should only have 0V when the horn button is pressed, otherwise +12V.

You shouldn't be reading 3-4 volts at #85 in any case.

Originally Posted by justinh:

Typical horn relay wiring (with 68 column):

30: +12V from fuse box

87: power out to horn

86: +12V jumpered from #30 (so you don't have to run another wire to the fuse box)

85: to the wire on the upper column bearing (bearing must be isolated from outer column tube by plastic bushings)

 

68 Column wiring:

Wire must connect from steering box, jump over the rag joint, up through the center of the steering shaft, and connect to the horn button.

 

Horn wiring (the horn isn't polarity sensitive, the terminals can be hooked up either way):

Terminal 1: power from relay #87

Terminal 2: connect to ground

 

 

Relay terminal 87 should only have +12V when the horn button is pressed, otherwise 0V.

Relay terminal 85 should only have 0V when the horn button is pressed, otherwise +12V.

You shouldn't be reading 3-4 volts at #85 in any case.

When the horn button is pressed, 85, there is no reading. Static, no contact, it used to read 12V+. That is why I think the relay is shot?...it only reads between 3-4 V. Everything else is wired according to your explanation above when the relay is used...??? Darn thing has me confused!

Originally Posted by G.R.:

When the horn button is pressed, 85, there is no reading. Static, no contact, it used to read 12V+. That is why I think the relay is shot?...it only reads between 3-4 V. Everything else is wired according to your explanation above when the relay is used...??? Darn thing has me confused!

Yes, it's likely a bad relay.

 

But just to verify your column wiring is also good, disconnect the wire from the 85 terminal. Measure the resistance from the wire's end to ground. It should read infinite resistance (open circuit). Press the horn button and it should read under 1 ohm. Or if your meter has a continuity setting, just use that. If you have a test light, connect one end to the +12V and the other end to the wire. The test light should turn on when you press the horn button.

Originally Posted by TRP:
Negative trigger for a VW horn.  That doesn't do much to debug your relay issue... But I just like to bring that up because it's so backwards and wrong.

Why is it wrong? Negative trigger, positive trigger, who cares? It doesn't matter which way it is triggered, they are both easy.

 

FYI, electrons flow from the negative side back toward the positive terminal. Everything used to be positive earth in the old days. All(just about) telephone equipment runs on -48 volts DC, with positive ground.

 

Kinda blows the whole theory on backward doesn't it?

 

Sounds like a bad relay to me as well, as long as you've bypassed the column switch and grounded 85. If you did that and no beep I'd say relay as well.

Rechecked all the wiring from the column to the horns and back and everything is good. Did as you suggested Danny and got no sound so it seems the relay failed.

At least bypassing the relay I do have horns once again so hopefully they'll stay working for a little while so I can pass inspection and finally get the Speedster licensed and titled here in Colorado.

It is just about ready to go, just have to mount the wiper arms and blades, remount the steering wheel, took it off to make it easier to crawl under the dash. I took all 4 rims/tires off Friday and took them up to be balanced, will get them on Monday, they were done but I just couldn't get to the tire store yesterday afternoon and they are closed on Sundays. 

If the weather holds for a few days I should be able to get it to the CO State Patrol inspection station, then off to get title and plates. Yea!

Gerry(it is Gerry, right?) go to a local stereo/alarm place. You can get them online but I paid a dude $1 a relay at the car stereo store. Not Bosch but I have 6 or 7 running my turn signals and 4 way flashers, work just fine.

 

Also, one relay is running my two formerly-Subaru horns. They need 12v switched as the ground is the mounting bolt, so hence the backwards ground-switched relay LOL!

Originally Posted by Tom Blankinship-2010 Beck-Dearborn, MI:
If you wire it backwards it will suck sound just like wiring a headlight backwards sucks light.


> On Jan 25, 2015, at 8:22 AM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
>

 

Tom that's funny!

 

I bought these and I love them. Closest you will get to original and they are loud.

 

http://www.sierramadrecollecti...t-12-Volt-p2499.html

 

Get a new relay and follow Justin's wiring instructions. In your case G.R. I think if you have voltage on 30, 86, and 87 but nothing at your horn then look at your horn button assembly. Perhaps a little WD-40?

Last edited by Rusty S
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