Front Beehive's

I run LED's for all signals and tail lights. No heat.

No heat with LED BUT you may have to go to a heavy duty electronic flasher under the dash.

I didn't have to use a different flasher. I did have to put resistors inline with to the flasher would ... flash.

Is this one of those two ways to do things situations? One way is go with a mo'betta flasher and the other is go with resistors? 

Ted

Resistors are a wonderful invention - if they work for you, use 'em.

Richard:  I went that route, the milky-lens version, a lot of years ago.  I love the look.  I think it's Pre-A, but I have a white car and the milky lenses look awesome.

That said, the lenses I got were hideously expensive at the time, From Stoddard's, IIRC, and are made of glass.  Still, here is what I'm running for bulbs:

These bulbs are very short profile incandescent bulbs, painted with amber paint. They are very hard to find so a couple of boxes of spares were bought and stored, when I found them, in the parts bay. The bulb # is a GE 97A

Because the bulbs are short(er) they don't get close to the lens and probably won't be close enough to melt it.  Also, my directionals are only on when the directional is flashing - they are not running lights and, most of the time, they're off so they've never generated much heat.  Just to make sure, I spaced the lens off of the base an extra 3/16" by using a home-made ring of closed cell foam between the base and the lens.  It's waterproof and pushes the lens out just a bit while still looking stock.

Hope this helps.  Here's the look.  You can just see the amber bulb behind the lens:

That's an older photo - I now have a pair of headlight stone screens like you!

I sure love those wheels and the look of that top.

Great light fettling detail, Gordon.

Great bugs stuck to your car, Richard.

(Richard wins)

Gordon- are the front directional bulbs the same size as the GE 97A? And would that be the same for Kirk's cars? I need to find some spares; amber or clear would work for I have an amber lens.

Thank you

On the bee hives the bulb housing can be moved in or out as the socket is a press fit you can tap the bulb socket cylinder in or out with a  matching socket this allows additional bulb to lense clearance.

Just caught up, thanks for all replies. Alan your a genius, how did you know that?. I've had them out in bits before and though they had a small spot weld on each side holding them in situ. Anyway just tried to tap the back as you suggested and blow me down, they went back with each tap. Again l bow to your knowledge...

Now with bulb to lense clearance .

"are the front directional bulbs the same size as the GE 97A? And would that be the same for Kirk's cars? I need to find some spares; amber or clear would work for I have an amber lens."

Sorry, I'm not totally fluent on Vintage cars - just bits of knowledge here and there, but here you go for some amber 97A's - These actually look nicer than mine:  

http://www.allbatterysalesands...owse.cfm/4,8201.html

You, too, can buy a lifetime supply for under $5 bucks.

The GE-97A is a single-filament and has a glass bulb roughly the size of my/your thumbnail (although my hands are probably bigger than Donald Trumps).  Other dimensions are on that web page.

My milky lenses have 1/4" (.6 cm) between the bulb glass and the back of the lens, once the lens is spaced out with the closed cell foam spacer ring.  My directional lamp bases (next to the horn rings) are what came from CMC, some sort of "Signal Stat" base for truck running lights - just happens to be the right dimensions and, yes, the bulb sockets are press-fit and can move - I ran it all the way in til it bottoms on the housing shell to gain more clearance.

Ok must of been pure luck the one l tapped back the first, went back ok. The other didn't want to play. So pulled the whole unit out and yes it had a small spot weld either side of the body. Dremal out and all was good, managed to get it to go back enough the same as the other.

Either way a good result... fingers crossed they will be fine now.

Wow......   You've got a lot more bugs in central UK than we have here in "New" England.  Must be because we're still buried in snow over here!

If the sockets aren't welded to the housing (you Dremeled the welds off, right?) then over time, the two will corrode and begin to act like a poor ground on the light (because you ground the housing, not the socket).  A small sheet metal screw between the socket and the housing should prevent that.

Those bugs are from last years trophies Gordon when the weather was kinder than it is now. 

I'll take on-board about your earth comments.