front brake caliper upgrade....

Looks like some "weeping" from the master cylinder.  I'd spray it with brake cleaner and see if it is leaking or old brake fluid.  Replacing the rubber brake lines with teflon-lined stainless steel-covered ones will give you a firmer brake feel.

On normal cars - it seems front brake pads go 40-60k before needing replacement.  Not sure how larger how front brakes would improve braking without increasing rear brake capacity -- since front end is so light.

Those are just standard VW Ghia calipers - the kind used on almost every EMPI kit. You can push the "Easy Button" get them at your FLAPS if you want. If you're satisfied with the performance of what you have, I'd not change it just for bragging rights. Not too many people care.

Wilwood makes a 2-piston caliper which has an EMPI P/N (16-2526) and is a pretty direct replacement - it's available loose or as part of a kit.

If you want to go all out (I did), there is a guy on TheSamba that makes adapters to get from the EMPI drum to disc brake adapters (not the VW Ghia spindles) to a Wilwood Dyna-Lite 4-piston caliper. At that point, you'll need an adapter to get the brake lines to attach, but that's an EMPI part as well. It's a much more involved project.

I think that moving to Willwood's isn't needed.  This is according to an engineer friend who retired from Kelsey Hayes. This is mostly based on the weight of your car and heat generated from braking. Since you say you're driving mildly, I think you're ok with what you have. Perhaps just have them powder coated yellow or red if you ovh them.

This brings up my question.  Can you powder coat calipers without disassembly ?  They are built to withstand higher temperatures than the powder coating process which is about 400 degrees..............Bruce

@WOLFGANG @Stan Galat @aircooled  thanx guys..SOC has the best gurus!   so wolf gang can you send me info as were to get these specialty brake lines?...makes good sense...i kinda figured  what i have is adequate for my style of driving...another question...if replacing the M/C after bench bleeding ALL FOUR CALIPERS need to be bled?...but no removal of the M/C and replacing only front calipers, just the fronts need to be bled?..is this correct?...enquiring minds needs to know ...and yessss there is a difference between "break " & " brake"   haa!...my bad spell check!!

Any time I removed a brake line from anywhere on a Master Cylinder I would ALWAYS re-bleed all four corners, farthest to nearest.  Most of the ones I worked on way back when were school buses where you do not want a screw-up down the road and I learned to play it safe with everything..

On old VWs, I have had more luck doing a bench prime first, install the MC and bleed all four corners.  Some people don't bother with the bench prime and have good luck bleeding, but I didn't (it could have just been me).

I've also had much better bleeding luck with a power brake bleeder.  There are a bunch out there, but this is all you'll ever need:

https://www.amazon.com/SMOTIVE...77-9bc0-4513d670b6bc

I used to use one of those hand-held suction bleeders and they are quite cheap, but the power style, above, is light years better.  I can get the car up on stands and then bleed all four corners in under 30 minutes.

If none of that sounds appealing, then the tried-and-true method of having someone pump the brake pedal while you work the bleed screws usually (but not always) works, too.

i agree.....better safe than sorry....sometimes it takes some longer than others to learn the hard way about "murphys law"

JBugs has Empi kits with all 4 SS braided hoses for around $110.  They are DOT approved.  I believe front calipers take a slightly longer hose than the original drum brakes --- so ensure yours are good length (aren't stretched at full wheel turn lock).  Those for Super Beetles are longer.  Not sure if then list ones for Karmann Ghia - which would be sure fit.

If your brake fluid hasn't been replaced in 3 years - flush entire system with new.  Brake fluid absorbs water - this destroys calipers (rust).  Buy a big bottle of new brakefluid - don't use an old bottle on your shelf.  Brake fluid desolves paint so caution!

After doing brake fluid stuff - paint that metal plate below the master cylinder with CorroSeal to stop/prevent rust.  Or sand/wireblush and use PO15 or Rustoleum.

Supposedly there is a Ghia master cylinder designed for front disc brakes but I can't seem to find them.  There are also big bore MC for disc brakes but believe they increase pedal pressure needed.  Comments????

A lot of after market kits don't have backing plates for front discs.  They keep dust/water off the pads/calipers.  If holes (10 mm bolt) are in the brackets - I'd recommend adding them.

I do like to paint calipers with high heat caliper paint.  You need to brass brush to clean and use brake cleaner before painting.  It keeps them from rusting and add bling (red).  You can paint them on the car - but don't get brake fluid on newly painted ones.

I've been looking into the calipers... This appears to be direct replacement for the ghia brake caliper when used on the ghia disc mount spindles....https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd?itemno=120-16070&appid=0

Agree that for street driving you shouldn't need more caliper...  the Wilwood above should be pretty equal (maybe a tad better?)  but are definitely lighter..  so less unsprung weight, which is a good thing.  That and brand name caliper cool/appearance points.. (3 colors available)

the power bleeder @Gordon Nichols linked to would certainly be a great way to go.. I used similar one at the track on several race cars.. (even broke a brake line with it, which means that brake line should have been replaced several seasons ago.. but I'd rather find a failure like this in the pits than on the track)    I have a different one that just uses compressed air to vacuum the line-- because I had a compressor, it was cheaper and didn't need adapters for different cars.

I still finish the bleed with the "someone pump the pedal" method...  Like Gordon.. old habits.

Also agree the braided lines will improve pedal feel/firmness.  One of the first changes I made when converting a bike for the track.. & relatively cheap upgrade over rubber lines.

@aircooled posted:

I think that moving to Willwood's isn't needed.  This is according to an engineer friend who retired from Kelsey Hayes. This is mostly based on the weight of your car and heat generated from braking. Since you say you're driving mildly, I think you're ok with what you have. Perhaps just have them powder coated yellow or red if you ovh them.

This brings up my question.  Can you powder coat calipers without disassembly ?  They are built to withstand higher temperatures than the powder coating process which is about 400 degrees..............Bruce

You can clean them and paint them with caliper specific paint right on the car. But the best job is done with them removed. holes plugged, soda or walnut bead blasted, cleaned with Brake Kleen, painted with several coats, then several coats of clear. Once dry reassemble.

Some go the extra step and disassemble but it is not necessary.

A couple of thoughts on brakes:

Motul 5.1 Brake fluid is DOT 3-4 compatible and doesn’t dissolve paint. (Iirc, it also has a higher boiling point than either) NOTE: NOT compatible with silicone-based DOT 5  (I’ve mentioned several times to my Motul distributor that it was a really bad naming/labeling choice)

+1 on flushing the whole system and re-bleeding every time you open a brake line. It’s not that hard and insures you don’t have issues with water absorption.

I’ve used both suction and pressurized bleeding systems (and even both together) and I’ve never had perfect pedal without finishing off with the old fashioned two man brake bleed.

It wasn't Motul that named DOT 5.1, but you're right - it's a bad designation.

Other companies make DOT 5.1 brake fluid, but as usual - Motul is the best.

Change your brake fluid. Minimum, every 2 years. More often(yearly) if you hate replacing brake parts. PCA requires the fluid to be fresh before each track day. I've even bled between sessions at Watkins Glen.

If you keep moisture out of the system, corrosion never happens.

"Rust never sleeps"------- Neil Young

On the topic of upgraded brakes - I'm finally on the road

Nice wheels Stan!

From an Atlanta area C&C Saturday.

@Stan Galat posted:

On the topic of upgraded brakes - I'm finally on the road

DUDE!

Do you have a shot of it sitting on the ground???

X3 on the wheels!

Hmmm…where did I see those wheels recently?

Yep, Rod is to blame for the fact that no one will ever be able to find a space-saver spare for their 944 in a junkyard ever again!

@dlearl476 posted:

Yep, Rod is to blame for the fact that no one will ever be able to find a space-saver spare for their 944 in a junkyard ever again!

I got mine from the Netherlands, so there's that.

A set of those might have steered me away from the body-colored wheels on the Coupe.

@Stan Galat posted:

On the topic of upgraded brakes - I'm finally on the road

I want to hear thoughts(after bedding in both brakes and tires, of course).

Looks marvelous!

@Stan Galat

"On the topic of upgraded brakes - I'm finally on the road"

Good to hear!  How are the knees for driving?

@Bob: IM S6 posted:

@Stan Galat

"On the topic of upgraded brakes - I'm finally on the road"

Good to hear!  How are the knees for driving?

Yep, that's the $64,000 question.