Should our cars have more front camber than a regular VW?
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No
The same.
If it’s a ball joint front end, set it the same as a 1970 VW sedan (or same year Karmann Ghia) with added caster (not camber) to 5° - 7°.
Thanks Gordon bought myself an alignment guage today to check the front end.
Richard
I run 1.5 degrees negative camber, but I run the car pretty hard. Works for me. If I was just cruising I'd go closer to zero camber.
Will be doing mine this weekend
Gonna shoot for -1
I tried to get to negative one but the adjusters ran out of adjustment. I could go zero or positive only.
@sethsaccocio posted:I tried to get to negative one but the adjusters ran out of adjustment. I could go zero or positive only.
Guys have taken the upper arms and kinked them in a press (it'll take 10 or 15 tons of force- they really are tough!), or there are several places that sell the camber adjuster nut thingie with the offset hole. Being able to run ½ to 1° negative camber makes a difference, even on the street. Al
Rather than bend your trailing arms (at least Al's not drilling holes in them) you could just run camber adjusters with extra adjustment range, like these:
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/E...ber-adjers-extra.htm
A bunch of us on here are using those, like me!
I have those adjusters. Not sure why I can't get any neg camber. Maybe the 2" drop spindles have something to do with it?
@sethsaccocio posted:I have those adjusters. Not sure why I can't get any neg camber. Maybe the 2" drop spindles have something to do with it?
All the drop spindles I know of are built on the same specs as stock pieces so they shouldn't be the problem, Seth, although it's of course possible yours weren't made properly. Is it on 1 side or both where you can't dial in any negative camber?
And those are the ones, @Gordon Nichols- they're available from just about everybody.
I'm using those adjusters too. They are the solution I needed.
The stock eccentrics ought to give some negative camber. I'd start checking the upper trailing arms to make sure they're in all the way and the grub screws are centered in the divots.
And the trailing arms may be bent IF your ball joints and bushings are in good shape.
@edsnova posted:The stock eccentrics ought to give some negative camber. I'd start checking the upper trailing arms to make sure they're in all the way and the grub screws are centered in the divots.
The stock eccentrics will give you very little negative camber (if any)- there was never intended to be that much adjustability. Before the offset drilled eccentrics were made (late '80's or very early '90's?) the only option was to put the upper arms in a press if you wanted to deviate from stock alignment specs at all.
Well, I was unaware of these facts when I adjusted and got .5 degree negative on Bridget, using a stock ball joint beam and stock 1969 Beetle parts. Got about the same on the Spyder as well.
@edsnova posted:Well, I was unaware of these facts when I adjusted and got .5 degree negative on Bridget, using a stock ball joint beam and stock 1969 Beetle parts. Got about the same on the Spyder as well.
I guess that's about the limit then- good to know. The first time I ran a full degree negative camber on my street car I was told by Don (he owned a VW performance shop) I'd have to have the upper arms bent, so that's what we did.
-1 currently and adjusting to -1.5
The aftermarket eccentrics have a fair amount of adjustability.
How many caster shims are you running?
1 Shim
Lowered on Beam only
3.25* Caster
That’s what I measure with one shim. What size bar are you running? Any weight in the front?