Front disc brake conversion

I got the car back from the shop.I am NOT IMPRESSED with the disc brake conversion(Empi kit). For $750 parts and labor I thought I would be able to stop on a dime. The mechanic wasn't able to replace the old master cylinder with the new one because the metal lines weren't long enough. I have to step on the brake pedal half way before I see any action.

Also I left the car there for a tune up,only to find out that he wasn't able to find points-condenser-distributor cap for my Mallory distibutor.

I am sooooooo HOT now, I need to cool down.

You still may have micro bubbles in your brake lines. I had a similar problem when I removed my brake reservoir during my trunk retrofit.

I re bled them and tapped on the caliper and the brake lines with a screwdriver handle as the pedal was being pumped. If they are safe, you might want do drive on them for a couple of days and then re bleed them.

You may need to use a speed shop to find the distributor parts or order on line.

Also the feel of a disc brakes action is a bit different. If you pump the pedal does your
pedal get higher?

Lambros; something doesn't seem right. The kit includes the master cylinder; did you get to keep it? If the problem was the short brake lines I would've replaced them for new longer ones; that's not a valid excuse from the shop.

VW brake line crimpers are odd ducks. Was that a VeeDub guy? They ought to have a double flare at the end, like a trumpet facing both ways -- <>. Brake line isn't very expensive; can't imagine that was a valid excuse.
My two cents. That's one of the few things I CAN do mechanically. (lol)

I recently put discs on the front of my car (an EMPI kit too) and I also did not install the new master cylinder that was included in the kit. The reason was that I needed a link pin set for a pre 65 car and it came with a single piston master cylinder, whereas my car has already been upgraded to a dual piston master cylinder. However after the install and bleeding the brakes they work great. It is possible that the brakes weren't completely bled or only the front two were bled.

Thanks to all. I will bleed the brakes tomorrow. Is DOT 3 the correct brake fluid?

Remember, furthest from the master cyl first. Dot 3 is ok stuff.

Lambros; a quick tip from Jjr: get the Castrol LMA (Low moisture absorbing) Brake Fluid. It will stay in better shape longer in your lines because it absorbs less moisture. Two or three weeks ago we changed the fluid in my car for the first time since I bought it new two years ago (VW Service Manual recommends changing it at two year intervals) and what came out looked very contaminated and dark. This Castrol brand is very clear; somehow gives you some peace of mind and so far so good.

Dale,Ricardo big 10-4

I think that your mechanic really was lost, probably not famiiar with the VW set-up.

You really need to have a GHIA/ or TYPE III master. They were built to work with the bias of front disk/rear drums from the factory, and make sure that it's from Germany one, NOT India or whereever .

Brake line can be gotten from any outlet selling Import auto parts, or on-line, I get mine from Auto Zone. If they're too long, just bend a coil into them.

The newer Mallory tune-up parts are EVERYWHERE on-line, just call and order. If you have the older dual-point style (also sold under Segal, Bug Hut, etc.) I have the contact info for parts.

You should REALLY notice a nice difference in braking, straight, strong, sweet. If not, there's something wrong that will eventually get you hurt.

Luck,

TC

TC
Thank you. The mechanic is familiar with VW's. I have seen buggies at his shop before. He told me he can make his own brake lines for $75 per hour however long it takes.

Use a piece of electrical wire to follow the routing of the existing lines this will give you the length needed, making sure that you include the threaded ends as part of the total measurement.
NAPA, Advance Auto and Pep Boys all carry German metric double flare lines. A bit longer is fine and cheaper than $75 and hour, hell I can do that for a whopping $75 hr. and with smile and a clear conscience too :)

Yea, they cost about $2.99 for a 20"

It really is a simple job that you can do. Less than an hour to replace all hard lines(except the one in the tunnel). A Bug brake line kit is only $30.

"(except the one in the tunnel)"

And even easier still! That hard line in the tunnel is for fuel, the front-to-back brake line rest beside the tunnel, clipped in place, on the driver's side.

Easy Peasy, really.

I replaced the brake lines including the front to back which required a bend at the pedal and a loop beside the seat to get it the right length. It was a snap. They didn't have (United Auto Parts) the length I needed so I got 2 parts and a joiner (screw on thread)to join them together. All of the brake lines were changed in about 1 hour at a total cost of MAYBE $10.00 in parts including that joiner which was more expensive than the pipe.

If I could do it again I would prefer to run the line on the left of the cabin as opposed to along the tunnel. It makes for a cleaner bend at the brake pedal.

Also consider buying a bender ($8.00) so you can make clean bends.