Front Ride Height

I have a standard beam (non-adjustable) with dropped spiddles and disc brakes. My question is how do I raise the front end with out changing the beam? Can I use coil over shocks on the front or possibly shim the body so that the front doesn't hit when driving over bumps? Any help would be appreciated.
Robert
Also when making sharp right hand turns something is rubbing, most likely the tire on the shell.

Spacers will fit on the front and fix the rubbing on turns (1/4" or with longer bolts 3/8") -- also it will allow taller profile tires which is about only way of raising front without altering the beam. Where do tires hit on bumps - suspect inside of upper fender wheel well? - if so it might help that too. You could alter back of wheel well opening so it doesnt scrape of right turn too - hammer fiberglass in and recoat. I had to use 1/4" spacers so my 2L Fuchs would clear the disc brake calipers.

Rubbing is likely related to ride height; but not necessarily: taller tires would increase ride height. Cpil overs are a cheap/easy thing to try: BUT, they will likely make front suspension too stiff: but maybe not: you may have broken torsion leaves. I have pulled a couple apart with broken leaves. It is likely that the staock leaves are a little stiff for a glass body but not a lot.

Inspecting the leaves is a pretty challenging messy job and ya want to reassemble very correctly because a couple of set screws is all that holds the wheels on. Also, if you do this inspection, be sure to keep the torsion leaves in the same l/r orientation etc. because they, it is said, take a set and dont like it if they are reversed.

Where could I purchase spacers?

CIP1 has 1/4" and 3/8" spacers for $18 each. I went with 1/4" but with 5.5" rims and 165mm tires I think 3/8" would have looked better - but my lug bolts probably would not be long enough.

http://www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=1263

There ae screws that are stops that control how much the wheels can turn.

Maybe those can be adjusted.

It is possible that several issues are inter-relating here:

If the wheel rubs on bumps (assume you are driving straight ahead) then perhaps the suspension is too soft. A pair of stiffer shocks may solve this problem. Or - are some of the leaves missing from the front torsion tubes? You may want to replace them if needed.

If the wheel rubs when cornering, are you using any anti-roll bar? Installing a stiffer (larger diameter) front anti-roll bar may help. If you have no anti-roll bar, adding one will definitely reduce some of the body roll and reduce tendency to rub the wheel.

You are embarking on a learning experience - enjoy.

i have a similar set-up on mine and i still have 8 inches(without body on, prolly 7 inches with) so how come you are so low?? 2 1/2 inch drop on a vw frame with a lightened body SHOULD leave you loads of ground clearance! You must have bad springs. Coilovers will stiffen your ride and give more clearance but check them springs. I think you can remove the whole front beam and replace any or all parts. The whole beam costs less than a Ford alternator! My two cents. BILL

Bill,

Apparently my mechanic removed one of the leafs that has lowered the car more than I want. He is going to replace this week and we will see if it make a difference.
Robert
P.S. do you have a picture of the front of your car.

still under construction, I have the wiring harness and most of the switches, etc. but i think that if i wire it up like a beetle It'll look like a rats nest and be impossible to trouble-shoot. I think i should use a terminal block to organize things(my brain!) any thoughts on how to get started-a good plan and a running start is all I need.

Bill,
I use to live in Blue Hill ME as a kid. I don't know if that is near you or not?
Robert

Hey Bob! I do live near Blue hill, Brewer is only 25 miles. I took my super down there last weekend. It has lots of twisty, turny, up and down roads! Spotted 2 old MGs, one black one silver.Kits???
But its such a beautiful place its hard to keep my eyes on the road! I once flipped a canoe at reversing falls and was rescued by the kooks at Unicorn expiditions! They were tossing loaded(with a man!) kayaks off the bridge! They really just had to rescue the boat(no flotation Ha Ha!) Good thing the tide was coming in, not out!
I was nearly washed off the rocks once after a hurricane, similar to what happened at Acadia Nat Park two weeks ago(hurricane Bill, of course) 7 people washed into the sea, 4 climbed out with broken bones, two rescued and one little girl drowned. Tragic!
Mt Desert Island is an awesome place to drive a sports car! I often take my "death rides" there, off season, midweek. A nice one-way road thru the trees but watch out for deer by the golf course!
Well back to the speedy- if they are not in, now would be a good time for caster shims. I dont have mine in and i was thinkin that i could just cut up a piece of 2 in pipe. I will need to shim the front of the top beam to level the bumper and i'll have to pull the inner fender wells, they are in fastened to bracket but not glassed in.

I raised the front end with a pair of coil-over shocks. It worked great,, and the ride and suspension travel is improved. I am on the softest settings for the coil spring adjusters. This was a good solution for me because I spend a lot of time prowling the back roads, where you can use the extra travel. This weekend, I am going to install a pair of 215r60-15's in place of the original 205r50-15's to add another inch, and pretty much level the car out. But the shock were a relatively inexpensive 1 hour fix for my front ride height.
Cheers,
Alan Maguire
CMC 359

2" pipe won't fit the same. The shims have the same radius on both sides.

I like terminal strips. I use them for my lights, blinkers and grounds.

Jeff--that's some good looking wiring! Good job.

I installed a radio and a Wasp alarm and I'm afraid mine looks much different from your neat wiring! At least it all works.---Jack