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To all the experts here, any suggestion for front shocks. I have whatever came with my JPS coupe, I believe it is an Empi shocks, it is really stiff. Any suggestion for a softer shock. An adjustable will be ideal. At the back I use adjustable QA-1 (carrera shocks) which I can adjust from soft to ultra firm.

Thanks

Eddy

1957 JPS Coupe #3

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To all the experts here, any suggestion for front shocks. I have whatever came with my JPS coupe, I believe it is an Empi shocks, it is really stiff. Any suggestion for a softer shock. An adjustable will be ideal. At the back I use adjustable QA-1 (carrera shocks) which I can adjust from soft to ultra firm.

Thanks

Eddy

Eddy,
Good question. I think it all depends on adjustable beam vs. dropped spindles. First off, I don't think you're experiencing stiffness. I think you're experiencing travel limitation.
If you're running a lowered adjustable beam then you have very short travel in your suspension. You're probably bottoming out pretty quick. I know JPS likes to use very soft, sometimes "used" stock front shocks, the theory is these cars are even lighter than a stock VWs. This theory works if you are driving slow on smooth roads and don't go through, what, an inch or so of travel? Your tuning capabilities are diminished significantly with the reduced travel as a result of the lowered, adjustable beam with stock spindles.
If you're running dropped spindles then you have almost full travel on your front suspension, which is much better for aggressive driving.
In your case, place a zip-tie around the smaller diameter tube on one of your front shocks at where the smaller/larger tubes connect. Take the car for a typical drive, then measure how far the zip-tie traveled and compare that distance to your travel limitations - stop to stop. See if you are using all of your travel. If you are, it ain't the shocks.

The above is my opinion. I'm not a rocket surgeon an don't give a rat's ass what anyone else thinks.
Well, I dunno nuttin' about drop spindels and such, but I do have a JPS and it rides kinda hard, and is very light in the front. Smooth roads are fine, but if you hit some bumps in a trun the front all but lifts offs, tires tend to chirp. Can't say what kind of shocks I have, but the whole deal is pretty stiff. Also have the thicker anti-sway bars. The car does corner flat, and this feature was part of the conversation w/ John when car was being speced.
I agree with Terry and that's what I did

I pulled 2 fairly decent old shocks off a derelik bug then lighly glass beaded them and matched the color on the rear ones and putum on. It handles and rides perfect.

Be more concerned about a good rear swaybar. that's what make the car handle..

Eddy you need to be able to move it 2 inches fairly easy and with only your upper body weight.. If it's stiffer than that? It will beat you to death..
Thanks for all the tips. I am not sure what kind of set up that I have on the front. I have heard John mentioned what Terry said about installing some old beat up shocks in the front because it is so light.

I have to look what I have, but even looking at it, I am not sure if it is a drop spindle or not, any clue how it looks like?

I believe Kelly's set up and shock is very similar as mine as his was build just a little bit before mine. I saw it when it was built.

I still believe the shock is too stiff as trying to bounce the front up and down is almost impossible. It almost feel the one that move up and down is the tire. The ride is not too bad, but it is definitely very stiff in the front.

Eddy
One thing nobody hit on is the beam. Are the bushings new, low miles? You need to grease the beam and then put some miles on it. They can be REAL stiff before they wear in a little.

Also, I removed half the bump stops on my front shocks to get some travel back on a slightly lowered, adjustable, stock spindled beam. I cut off the dust covers, removed half of them, welded the covers back on, and hit with a little paint.
This is also a good time, to check your ride height, and see if your happy with how stiff the front end is with out the shocks on it. If it's over 25 and 1/2 you may want to remove some leaf springs as I did to soften and lower the height The hard part is taping spring scraps back into the center set screw of the beam. You can spot weld the end fillers at the tips. But because you do not want to weaken the springs only electial tape on the center on one side of the springs so you can incert and slide it through the center. Then lock it down with the set screw.
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