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Cole,
I think the sway bar is installed correctly. I also think you installed the WRONG sway bar.
They make that swaybar in two versions. One version is for a LOWERED beam.
The other model is for a stock front beam.
It looks like the one you have isntalled is for a stock beam.

The lowered beam version is bent up to accomodate the new angle of the arms to which it is attached.

Look at the difference between your swaybar and the photos of the bar in Wolfgangs reply to your first post... See the difference?

Greg
Mike.... The action is supposed to imitate a torsion spring, while allowing for suspension movement in various planes.... The addition of additional bushings / pivot points on the bar limits its ability to conform to the smaller deviations and will increase the apparent spring tension of the bar.... ( This assumes you add them to the section running across the front of the car. ) This can be desirable in a track car, but I don't think it advisable for the street...

My .02....
Mike, the mounting bushings you are talking about are not needed on a VW front torsion beam setup because the arms of the sway bar are essentially rigidly fixed to the trailing arms. Because the arms of the sway bar are forced to rotate in the same way the trailing arms rotate, the sway bar is still twisted like normal and functions correctly.

If you add mounting bushings to the center section like you see on other sway bars, it will just cause the sway bar to bind up. (Two parts that are rigidly fixed together cannot rotate on two parallel axis at the same time.) Of course if you did add the extra mounts, due to bushing deflection, instead of the suspension seizing up solid it will feel like the swaybar stiffness has increased dramatically. But it's the absolutely worst way to get a stiffer swaybar.

On other cars, the mounting for a sway bar has the end of the sway bar arms attached to the suspension via jointed links. This allows the sway bar ends to move (relatively) freely in relation to the suspension. But because the ends can move freely, you have to hold the center of the bar in place with mounts. If you don't you can't twist the bar to make it work.
Jack,,
I just ordered my CC,, but I don't think I will get it installed until spring. I got the standard EMPI modern version. Which CC do you have ?? Was your installation straight forward, or did you shim the urethane pads at all (assumes you have the empi CC)?? Was your ride height and/or stiffness affected at all ?? At rest,, is your camber essentially neutral, or a bit negative ??
Cheers, Alan
Alan---I'll attach the flyeer for my CC. It's from C. B. Performance
--they claim it's stronger than the EMPI but who knows? Best $54.95 I ever spent too. Installation was easy peasy with no issues. There aren't any urethane shims. It fit perfectly and took maybe 15 minutes.

The change in the ride is noticeable with no slop in the back end---just straight and true tracking.

I believe that the camber is neutral---tires just straight with no leaning either way---just straght.

It started out installed on a Type I then switched to a Type IV and it fits both equaly well.

There is a You Tube video somewhere that shows VW Bugs racing around a track. There is one spot on the track that was a shwrp left turn
and oveer half the cars going around that curve flipped over? Why? The combination of a left turn and a left rear wheel that had the top leaning way outside and the contact patch way inside. Those cars just HAD to roll.

I wouldn't think of driving a pan based car without a Camber Compensator.

Maybe someone will post a link to that race----damned scary!

Good luck with yours! In the spring let us know how it works out.

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  • Camber Compensator
Jack,,
In researching camber compensators, and how to best apply them, I found they had a bit of a puzzling history. But of course,, everyone agreed that they were effective,, and a must for most swingaxles. EMPI seems to developed and marketed the loop style (that you have), and marketed it to the Porsche and VW markets. Then they stopped making that type, and CB began producing it with a 50% stronger spring. EMPI is now producing the pad style (sometimes described as the SwayAway design),, and that is what I have ordered. They appear to work differently,, but both achieve satisfactory results. Then I have seen hybrids too,, on race cars. Here are some photo's to ponder,, Alan

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  • CCCompared
  • CCstrong
  • VWHandlingphotos
Thanks for all the ideas and advice

I installed the front sway bar upside down per Kirk at VS. he said this would allow you to avoid cutting out the bumper brackets.

I did install the EMPI #9600, which is not the lowered version. The 9594 is the lowered version, do you think this would give me more clearance? Having only 3" is REALLY low!

Cole
Cole--I have a Vintage and installed the 9600 anti-sway (OK?) bar
as thedirections show and it went on perfectly with no cutting.

I know musbjim did cut to get his in and he has a vs too---I Don't know why mine went in without cutting. But it did.

Anti sway bar in front plus Camber compensator in the rear makes for a great driving car.
How a sway bar fits on the front depends on the method you used to lower the front.

If you use adjusters only it rotates the outer ends of the suspension arms up resulting in a low sway bar installed in the normal orientation.

If you use drop spindles the suspension arms are at their normal angle more parallel to the ground resulting in a higher sway installed in the normal orientation.

Like Jack, I installed a 9600 bar in right side up on my car with drop spindles. When the car is on the ground the bar does not touch the bumper brackets. When the car is up on jack stands the bar does touch the bumper brackets but I am assuming the wheels won't drop down that far in normal operation.
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