Front Wheel Bearings Quest.

Hi Frank---my pan is also a 1968.  Very common and inexpensive bearings.  Go to the site of Summit Racing and search for National bearings and put this part number in the search function;  LM11749.  You will need both the bearing andthe bearing race that goes with it.

 

Two years ago we left D.C. After a Carlisle event and one of the front bearings "went" ---mine made a low rumbling noise that was pretty prominent---it seemed to come from under my feet and we listened to it all 1,200 miles back to Hot Springs.

 

Upon removal one of the old  bearings was shot and just fell apart. The bearings were galled badly and a few were torn looking. The old bearings had 33,000 miles on them which I suppose isn't too bad.  They were never greased and I don't doubt that they would still be in the car had I greased them.  I have 9,000 miles on the new bearings and will grease then soon.

 

Oh--and I also have disc brakes up front (rear too!)

 

Good luck on replacing your front wheel bearings! 

Wow Jack!  1200 miles of bearing noise?  That would have scared the crap out of me.  Mine have been 'loosening up' a lot lately and I have been adjusting them so I figured sooner of later at least one would need attention.  Mine, if it is a bearing issue, made more of a scraping noise so I assume its fallen apart.  I was able to limp home a mile or so but I always imagined it would be as you indicated as a low rumbling noise that maybe you could even feel....

Thanks again for the reply.

Frank

You bet--awap out those bearings.  It was uncomfortable to drive with the bearings making that noise but when we opened everything up I was surprised that there wasn't more damage.

Also I was glad to see that you can travel a pretty long way with the bearings making that noise.  I know there's a limit though.  The other thing about it was that it was good to hear what bad front wheel bearings sound like.  Low rumbling under my feet.  I had imagined that it would be  agrinding noise but it was just the low rumbling sound.

 

I also had my rear bearings and seals  replaced.  That wasn't because of the bearings going bad but the rear seals failed.  The bearings are lubricated by transmission oil (!!) that runs dowh the tubes from the tranny to the wheels.  I was having oil all over the inside of the tires and that was beacause the seals failed.  The front bearing replacements are pretty easy but I got a great local mechsnic to replace the rear bearings and seals.  Quite a mess too as the oil ruined the disc brake pads and they also had to be replaced.  I hesitate to say it but absolutely everything on the car is perfect right now and I'm planning to drive it about 800 miles to the Eurofest event in Asheville in a few weeks.

 

Good luck.

Never say what you just said about everything being perfect.  Its bad juju.  Good luck Jack and thanks for the advice.

I did qualify it with "right now" because I know what you said about bad juju is so true!  I am currentloy very happy but know that can change in a heartbeat.  Good advice tho.

I recall reading that there was a diameter change - not sure how the aftermarket disc brakes affect - but worth measuring the old races.  From Shoptalkforums:

 

In mid`68, VW enlarged the inner diameter of the inner front wheel bearings on all Type I and Type III models. If you fit late wheel bearings on early (`66-`68½ spindles they won't seat properly and it'll be impossible to get a a correct adjustment on either the bearings or the brakes...and if the brakes are disc, the pads will knock back giving a low pedal and uneven wear.
At the same time as the bearing/seal dimensions changed, the studs of the tie rod ends were also enlarged from 10mm to 12mm. 12mm tierods use 19mm wrench-size nuts, and (as a rule) 10mm use 17mm...so all that you should need to do is see which size nuts are on the outer tierod ends in order to identify the spindle vintage.
There do exist, however, 19mm nuts for 10mm tierods - extremely rare, but possible - so if the nuts are 19mm, also peek at the end of the studs to be certain that they're 12mm.

Wolfgang makes a good point about the changes in the '68 bug.  You can compare your VIN number with the range of serial numbers to see if your's is early or late.

That's a very interesting point and thanks Greg. I did check my VIN for a mfr. date and ordered new bearings but then thought about the fact that I have disks up front. With this does that mean that the spindle is from another car and not original? And if so the month and year of mfr. may not matter?  I think I ordered bearings for an early model due to mfr. date solely.  Guess I better check the tie did end studs also.
Thanks guys...appreciate the heads up.
Frank

Well thats it.  Couldnt stay in bed any longer after reading Greg's post.  Had to go out and measure the nut on the tie-rod end as well as the tie-rod stud itself.  Sure enough its a 19mm nut with a 12mm stud.  Thnik Id better get back to CIP1 and order the later inner bearings.  Thanks again.

With aftermarket spindles and disc brakes they could be anything.  Guess if you went big bucks with Wilwood setup you'd buy parts from them --- or if a Ghia spindle you'd buy for that.  Having a set of both is cheap insurance that once its apart and you're all greasy you can get it back together without long wait for parts. 

I can testify.  Spring before last, my RF bearing started making noise.  I contacted Carey to find out what vehicle it was from.  I went to my local store, bought them, took apart my car, and....they didn't fit on the spindle.

Then I put some calipers in the spindle, called Carey, and he sent me what he uses and it worked.

IIRC, it was the difference between a Brazilian Ghia versus a German Ghia or some such

Interesting point Tom.  I think the rotors are Varga so most likely came from a Ghia?  All I can say is that they fit and the ID on the current bearing matches what CIP is selling as the later inner bearings.  Never would I have thought that there was this much info on bearings but, thinking about it, if the car is cobbled together and is anything but stock then a run through of all the replacement parts, devoid of a build book, is certainly a way to get a catalogue of what is what.  I now have bearing of older and later spindles coming and hope one of them fits the bill.  Its getter cooler and I still want some driving time.....

 

Right you are Greg.  For the $30.00 or whatever Id rather have too many parts than not enough at 2:00AM when everything is apart and going back together come hell or high water.

Frank

 

What a PITA. That's one of the reasons I haven't moved to the wide 5 setup. I'm afraid things won't fit!

That's the fun of it Rusty.  To change something you gotta know what you have and get good advice on how to proceed.  That and try a few parts out along the way